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Paint Finishing Procedures
Posted by Bud Abraham
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Paint Finishing Procedures October 13, 2003 05:43AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Happen to be reviewing some of my archives and came across a piece put on by 3M with regard to their Perfect-It III Paint Finishing System that I thought would be interesting to those of you on the forum.
Please note that the only place in this process that they use a random or d/a orbital is the final step, paint protection or waxing.
Step #1 - Wet/Dry sanding with a d/a using P1200 paper
Step # 2- Scratch refinement with a d/a and finishing film
Step # 3 - Compounding with a rotary buffer and white wool buffing pad
and compound
Step # 4 - Swirl Removing with a rotary buffer; foam polishing pad and
Machine Glaze
Step # 5 - Polishing with a rotary buffer; foam polishing pad and machine
glaze but light pressure.
Step # 6 - Finishing with d/a; foam polishing pad and their Finishing Glaze.
This is from the #1 company in the field of paint finishing products. 3M devotes more R & D toward tools; pads and chemicals than any other company in the industry.
Hope this is of some value to you all.
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
Please note that the only place in this process that they use a random or d/a orbital is the final step, paint protection or waxing.
Step #1 - Wet/Dry sanding with a d/a using P1200 paper
Step # 2- Scratch refinement with a d/a and finishing film
Step # 3 - Compounding with a rotary buffer and white wool buffing pad
and compound
Step # 4 - Swirl Removing with a rotary buffer; foam polishing pad and
Machine Glaze
Step # 5 - Polishing with a rotary buffer; foam polishing pad and machine
glaze but light pressure.
Step # 6 - Finishing with d/a; foam polishing pad and their Finishing Glaze.
This is from the #1 company in the field of paint finishing products. 3M devotes more R & D toward tools; pads and chemicals than any other company in the industry.
Hope this is of some value to you all.
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
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Re: Paint Finishing Procedures October 13, 2003 06:13AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Interesting. Is this the same system that they use the Trizact wetsanding paper? I read the brochure on this if I recall.
I never knew you could use a DA for wetsanding. I attended Vo-Tech for Paint Refinishing and was told by my instructor that you should only use the rubber squeegie blocks for wetsanding.
Which reminds me about something funny during that class. This was the first time I ever used a hi-speed buffer in my life and didn't know about paint burn. Well, to make a long story short, after painting a practice hood and wet sanding it, I used an air powered rotary buffer and burn the paint right down to the metal. Forgot to check the air guage dial which controls the speed. The lessons learned in life.
3M is, in my opinion, is one of the best reconditioning chemical manufacturers in the world. Too bad their a bit expensive. $24 for a white wool pad. Then I found Auto Magic. And if I recall correctly, when I saw the price tag for the Finess-It glaze, it was around $80/gallon I believe.
Bud, any chance you have these archives in a zip file? I'd love to read them.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
I never knew you could use a DA for wetsanding. I attended Vo-Tech for Paint Refinishing and was told by my instructor that you should only use the rubber squeegie blocks for wetsanding.
Which reminds me about something funny during that class. This was the first time I ever used a hi-speed buffer in my life and didn't know about paint burn. Well, to make a long story short, after painting a practice hood and wet sanding it, I used an air powered rotary buffer and burn the paint right down to the metal. Forgot to check the air guage dial which controls the speed. The lessons learned in life.
3M is, in my opinion, is one of the best reconditioning chemical manufacturers in the world. Too bad their a bit expensive. $24 for a white wool pad. Then I found Auto Magic. And if I recall correctly, when I saw the price tag for the Finess-It glaze, it was around $80/gallon I believe.
Bud, any chance you have these archives in a zip file? I'd love to read them.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: Paint Finishing Procedures October 13, 2003 01:38PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Brian:
Thanks for the reply. The reason for posting this was to let those on the forum know that 3M advocates the use of the D/A as an applicator of protection product, not to remove swirls or polish as many believe. It is 3M's belief as well as my own that you only fill swirls with a D/A.
As for sanding they use a D/A for both wet/dry sanding and for sanding body putty. Those units are attached to a vacuum that collects all the putty dust, an OSHA requirement.
Are you using a white wool pad on clears? Causes scratches and aggrevates swirling.
How much are you paying for your pad from Auto Magic? Is it wool or poly/wool?
The piece I took the info from was a catalog sheet I picked up in Mexico last year. Not much more than what I have already given, other than photos.
Regards
bud abraham</HTML>
buda
Thanks for the reply. The reason for posting this was to let those on the forum know that 3M advocates the use of the D/A as an applicator of protection product, not to remove swirls or polish as many believe. It is 3M's belief as well as my own that you only fill swirls with a D/A.
As for sanding they use a D/A for both wet/dry sanding and for sanding body putty. Those units are attached to a vacuum that collects all the putty dust, an OSHA requirement.
Are you using a white wool pad on clears? Causes scratches and aggrevates swirling.
How much are you paying for your pad from Auto Magic? Is it wool or poly/wool?
The piece I took the info from was a catalog sheet I picked up in Mexico last year. Not much more than what I have already given, other than photos.
Regards
bud abraham</HTML>
buda
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Re: Paint Finishing Procedures October 13, 2003 10:21PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 74 |
<HTML>Bud-
I agree that for professional application, a rotary buffer is the only practical tool of choice for removing swirls. Not only is it the only practical choice, it is, in my opinion the best choice and the obvious choice. For professionals, that is.
The consumer market is a whole other ballgame. It's not practical for consumers to be wielding rotary buffers, that's why companies like Meguiars have formulated swirl removers that work with DA buffers and marketed them to the consumers.
You won't ever find me buffing out swirls with a DA, but I assure you that it is possible if one is so inclined.</HTML>
I agree that for professional application, a rotary buffer is the only practical tool of choice for removing swirls. Not only is it the only practical choice, it is, in my opinion the best choice and the obvious choice. For professionals, that is.
The consumer market is a whole other ballgame. It's not practical for consumers to be wielding rotary buffers, that's why companies like Meguiars have formulated swirl removers that work with DA buffers and marketed them to the consumers.
You won't ever find me buffing out swirls with a DA, but I assure you that it is possible if one is so inclined.</HTML>
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Re: Paint Finishing Procedures October 13, 2003 11:09PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Gary:
Agree with you completely about the rotary buffer, and about the orbital. However, I direct my commentary on this forum to professional detailers not the DIY'ers.
They are not my target market nor the target of professional detailers so whatever I say here is generally to the pros like you.
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
Agree with you completely about the rotary buffer, and about the orbital. However, I direct my commentary on this forum to professional detailers not the DIY'ers.
They are not my target market nor the target of professional detailers so whatever I say here is generally to the pros like you.
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
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Re: Paint Finishing Procedures October 14, 2003 06:12AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Bud:
The white wool I use only for older finishes which aren't clear coated. This white wool pad sits in the back of the locker with other hardly used products, since I hardly ever see a finish that needs a heavy reconditioning. These are my favorite jobs though because when I finish, the car looks brand new...from an ugly, dull, neglected finish. The feeling of a superb job is often more important than money.
I think this is a poly/wool. The packaging just said compounding pad. I only use foam on clears. This pad was from the 3M Paint/Body shop dealer in my area.
For Auto Magic's pricing, my cousin is the distributor for Eastern PA, and Central Jersey, so I get them relatively cheap...around $8.00 a pad (all kinds.) He's the one who runs the detail shop out of the Toyota dealership.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
The white wool I use only for older finishes which aren't clear coated. This white wool pad sits in the back of the locker with other hardly used products, since I hardly ever see a finish that needs a heavy reconditioning. These are my favorite jobs though because when I finish, the car looks brand new...from an ugly, dull, neglected finish. The feeling of a superb job is often more important than money.
I think this is a poly/wool. The packaging just said compounding pad. I only use foam on clears. This pad was from the 3M Paint/Body shop dealer in my area.
For Auto Magic's pricing, my cousin is the distributor for Eastern PA, and Central Jersey, so I get them relatively cheap...around $8.00 a pad (all kinds.) He's the one who runs the detail shop out of the Toyota dealership.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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