4 Step Gloss

Hello, I'm Keith Bernard Jr. I'm a first time, Mobile Detail Professional business owner in Atlanta, Ga. I love it! I Have High End clients and I would like to get expert advise on doing a 4 Step Body Gloss. After I wash the car with wash and wax soap and get the scuffs out with Simple Green, my clients think I waxed it, But I'm not satisfied. I would like to see a triple-clearcoat gloss. Should I Clay, Compound, Polish , Wax in that order?

Keith-
Welcome to the phorum.

Most clear coats do not require compounding. Don't compound unless the paint is in bad shape. Simply clay, polish and wax. Some cars may not need clay, though.

Simple green is powerful and should not be used on paint unless diluted heavily. Not sure what you mean by 'scuffs'. If you are referring to bugs and tar, I'd feel more comfortable with something citrus like Goo Gone in place of Simple Green.

Check out past Product Evaluation threads with the search feature. If you want to produce the best result ( as you indicate ), visit www.zainostore.com and see what you think. For fine polish, also look at Griot's and Meguiar's among others.

Here's a link to an article on the fine points of the job : [www.detailassociation.com]

Doug



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2009 01:43AM by Doug Delmont.

Thanx doug, I do use a 3:1 dilute of simple green, but thanks for the comment. Scuffs like, high heel pumps to car or plastic scuffs to paint and i spray off. But, i'll refer to the citrus for the interior cleaner. thanks.

Keith-
You may find that your light polish will remove the scuff marks from paint. That would allow you to eliminate the Simple Green step and let the polish step take care of it. Link to buffing article : [www.americascarcare.com]

I could say more but I bet Marnie is waiting in the wings to ask you to join the IDA---so, without further ado... ( LOL).
Doug



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2009 02:15AM by Doug Delmont.

Keith your suggested process is correct on a vehicle paint finis that has IFO, scratches,dulling etc. Clay, correct, swirl remove/polish and wax.

If you are washing a car for buffing, etc you want a car wash shampoo that contains degreasers to wash away the road oils, waxes, etc.

If you are washing a car for maintenance you want to use a non-degreaser shampoo so you do not remove the wax.

As for using Simple Green on the car you want to determine what the pH of the product is, I do not know, but I know it is catagorized as either a degreaser or all purpose cleaner which means it has a higher pH than you would want on a chemical you put on the body of the car or on carpets and upholstery.

What you have to understand is that you do not appreciably lower the pH of a product by diluting it as most people think. What you do with dilution is lower the cleaning strength of the product. Your Simple Green in this case, still have a high pH (caused by a caustic, often sodium hydroxide) only you weaken Simple Green's ability to clean.

As a newbee who wants to be a professional detailer then you need to do what professionals do and that is, "use professional products for what they were designed for.

Car wash shampoos to wash cars; engine degreasers to clean engines; wheel cleaners, carpet & upholstery shampoos, glass cleaners.

These are all formulated differently to do different things. Sure they might work but they are not correctly formulated for other things.

For example you could get clean hair with Joy dishwashing detergent or take a bath with Tide laundry detergent and they would work quite well, but at what cost to your hair, scalp and skin.

See the point?

Learn from professionals, join the INTERNATIONAL DETAILING ASSOCIATION www.the-ida.com

Best Regards and contact me anytime for correct and professional information.

Bud Abraham
buda@detailplus.com

Buda, You are the man! I can only get better at this. I see your point. I understand, each chemical has a purpose. Just like I keep my rags separated. Thanks for your professionalism.

You are welcome, why not join with other professionals, some in your area, who will share with you their expertise and ideas. Join the IDA www.the-ida.com

Regards

Note :
Bud may be right for all I know but Simple Green is labeled for use on carpets and paint when diluted per instructions on the bottle. It will tend to strip wax more than a car wash soap.
Doug

If you are a chemical company would you not say that your product is good for all type of things?

For example, you could use Joy dishwashing liquid to wash your hair, or Tide liquid laundry soap to take a bath and both would do a great job of cleaning your hair and your body, but at what cost?

Carpet & Upholstery shampoos have a lower pH than all purpose cleaners which means they are not as caustic as the all purpose cleaner. The C & U shampoos also contain, "brighteners and softeners" in the formula for obvious reasons, these are not contained in all purpose cleaners.

The fact is few customers will know the difference in terms of what you use, but you will know. If it does not bother you that you are using a product that might harm the carpet or fabric upholstery or leather so be it.

I have always held to the premise that you simply buy chemicals for what they were formulated for. Engine degreasers to clean engines; wheel cleaners to clean wheels. carpet shampoos to clean carpets; glass cleaners to clean glass.

Makes life a lot simpler and safer too.

All I would do if you want to use Simple Green is determine the pH if it is above 8 it is probably too hot for a carpet shampoo.

Regards

Here is a link to Simple Green's PH as compared to other cleaners :

[www.simplegreen.com]

Bud- The way I read the scale, a PH of 8 is about as hot distilled water ; I seriously doubt you are right that carpets require such a mild product. I've cleaned a lot of carpeted floor mats with Simple Green and a pressure washer with no problems. I think it is safe for carpet.

Doug
P.S. - Here is a link to ideas for home brew carpet cleaners :

[www.thriftyfun.com]

...and a link to an in-depth article on claying, waxing etc. :
[www.detailassociation.com]



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2009 07:05AM by Doug Delmont.