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stinky interior
Posted by Jerry Slater
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Re: stinky interior January 25, 2006 02:21PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
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NOT A Toxin BUT Don't Spray The Dog! January 26, 2006 08:02PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 59 |
<HTML>At the risk of igniting a heated debate, I'd like to offer some factual information.
Ozone is NOT a toxin. It is an oxidant.
Toxins kill via a poison.
Ozone kills via oxidation.
The chemical you are referring to in the liquid odor elimnation product uses an encapsulation process identical to the more familiar consumer product called Fabreze.
Products of this nature are presumed safe for contact when dry but caution regarding the direct spray on the coat of a pet which is absolutely NOT recommended by Procter & Gamble, nor a number of national animal health organizations and medical veternary schools.
Ron, please don't shoot the messenger.
-Steve</HTML>
Ozone is NOT a toxin. It is an oxidant.
Toxins kill via a poison.
Ozone kills via oxidation.
The chemical you are referring to in the liquid odor elimnation product uses an encapsulation process identical to the more familiar consumer product called Fabreze.
Products of this nature are presumed safe for contact when dry but caution regarding the direct spray on the coat of a pet which is absolutely NOT recommended by Procter & Gamble, nor a number of national animal health organizations and medical veternary schools.
Ron, please don't shoot the messenger.
-Steve</HTML>
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Re: NOT A Toxin BUT Don't Spray The Dog! January 27, 2006 08:28AM |
<HTML>I use Odor Terminater in my Century 400 extractors (4 oz/gal), but no cleaner/shampoo; that we apply direct to the carpet. We also spray OT on the headliner, under seat cushions, package shelves, etc. It is very effective in the fresh AND recirc modes of the A/C system.
OT is odor neutral. That's critical to me.
We also use Microban disinfectant, an ozonater, ammonia, vinegar, baking soda - works...
Jim</HTML>
OT is odor neutral. That's critical to me.
We also use Microban disinfectant, an ozonater, ammonia, vinegar, baking soda - works...
Jim</HTML>
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Re: NOT A Toxin BUT Don't Spray The Dog! January 27, 2006 01:38PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>Jim,
Odor Terminator is not like the one that Steve is referring to.
It is non toxic, non-allergenic, and unlike Frebrez, may be misted on animals, humans, etc.
This product has been tested and approved by GM, Ford and DCX's world health and safety testing labs, and they issued "tox" numbers for it, under a different name as they use it in most of their plants.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
Odor Terminator is not like the one that Steve is referring to.
It is non toxic, non-allergenic, and unlike Frebrez, may be misted on animals, humans, etc.
This product has been tested and approved by GM, Ford and DCX's world health and safety testing labs, and they issued "tox" numbers for it, under a different name as they use it in most of their plants.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 17, 2006 07:50AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
<HTML>Hi Guys,
I thought that one of you may be able to help me with this problem.
I recently was asked to detail 3 late model Jaguars that had been imported from Singapore. One had such a vile smell coming from the interior that it could be smelt from 15 to 20 feet away with the windows down. I reluctantly worked on the vehicle and after an hour or so felt quite sick. When the owner of the vehicle came to see how I was going with the car I told him there was something dead in that car, a rat or something. As this is what it smelt like. I also said it was not the sort of smell that was going go with a normal interior groom. Best you rip the interior apart and find the dead rat!!!
After I had finished detailing the car the interior was stripped out by a mechanic who found nothing dead (although I don't think he looked all that hard) and proclaimed to me that the smell was caused by fumigation chemicals.
My question is has anyone else ever come across anything like this before??? can fumigation chemicals do this and be this over powering???
I know what a decomposing body smells like !!! And is that not the very reason customs fumigates the cars for, to kill any rodents etc
The interior of this car has been out for a whole month and it only smell from 10 feet away now and several people have been brought in to try different methods to get rid of the smell. I have always been convinced that something dead is tucked away in the vents somewhere.
What do you think guys?
I would love your imput into this one please
I have been detailing cars for many years in New Zealand and Australia. Over the years I have groomed many Japanese importsand never come accross anything like this.
Michelle</HTML>
"For the perfect shine every time"
I thought that one of you may be able to help me with this problem.
I recently was asked to detail 3 late model Jaguars that had been imported from Singapore. One had such a vile smell coming from the interior that it could be smelt from 15 to 20 feet away with the windows down. I reluctantly worked on the vehicle and after an hour or so felt quite sick. When the owner of the vehicle came to see how I was going with the car I told him there was something dead in that car, a rat or something. As this is what it smelt like. I also said it was not the sort of smell that was going go with a normal interior groom. Best you rip the interior apart and find the dead rat!!!
After I had finished detailing the car the interior was stripped out by a mechanic who found nothing dead (although I don't think he looked all that hard) and proclaimed to me that the smell was caused by fumigation chemicals.
My question is has anyone else ever come across anything like this before??? can fumigation chemicals do this and be this over powering???
I know what a decomposing body smells like !!! And is that not the very reason customs fumigates the cars for, to kill any rodents etc
The interior of this car has been out for a whole month and it only smell from 10 feet away now and several people have been brought in to try different methods to get rid of the smell. I have always been convinced that something dead is tucked away in the vents somewhere.
What do you think guys?
I would love your imput into this one please
I have been detailing cars for many years in New Zealand and Australia. Over the years I have groomed many Japanese importsand never come accross anything like this.
Michelle</HTML>
"For the perfect shine every time"
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 17, 2006 10:23AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 64 |
<HTML>Hi
Just on your note, many years ago when i was young and living at home, my father actually had a small mouse get ito the airconditioning unit in his dodge.
however that now was possible i dont know, but i clearly remember it went back and forth to different mechanics, untill it was finally found...what was causing that tyoical horrible smell of decomposing...
RoB</HTML>
Just on your note, many years ago when i was young and living at home, my father actually had a small mouse get ito the airconditioning unit in his dodge.
however that now was possible i dont know, but i clearly remember it went back and forth to different mechanics, untill it was finally found...what was causing that tyoical horrible smell of decomposing...
RoB</HTML>
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 17, 2006 12:40PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 17, 2006 03:00PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 201 |
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 17, 2006 03:27PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>It may well work, the ammonia.
However, there are some other issue that come up with using it.
One is "health" and the toxicity of ammonia.
Not a great idea to fog or mist it and then breathe the fumes.
Plus it also has a residual factor, and may discolor some fabrics or vinyl's if conditions are right.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
However, there are some other issue that come up with using it.
One is "health" and the toxicity of ammonia.
Not a great idea to fog or mist it and then breathe the fumes.
Plus it also has a residual factor, and may discolor some fabrics or vinyl's if conditions are right.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 17, 2006 03:39PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
<HTML>I have never had the experience of fumigation chemicals smelling so strong and have done many vehicles coming back from Sout East Asia with mold because of humidity.
Can you describe the smell?
Typically the smell of a small mouse would dissipate over time, but a very pungent, rotting odor may be a larger animal or a snake.
Check to see if there is any residue like white waxy susbstance in the trunk it could be indicative of solidified milk
Put the vehicle up on a lift and see if there is discolored liquid under the underbody...and watch to see where flys are going....
Would suggest that you remove all tail lights, headlights, door panels, my suspicion is that a snake could have work its way into the body moldings in front and rear feders. Remove the tires and check under wheel wells.
Take down the headliner and and all fittings in the vehicle, possible someone could have put a fish under headliner (it has been done before)
If all of this fails you will have to take down the entire dashboard.
Good luck</HTML>
Can you describe the smell?
Typically the smell of a small mouse would dissipate over time, but a very pungent, rotting odor may be a larger animal or a snake.
Check to see if there is any residue like white waxy susbstance in the trunk it could be indicative of solidified milk
Put the vehicle up on a lift and see if there is discolored liquid under the underbody...and watch to see where flys are going....
Would suggest that you remove all tail lights, headlights, door panels, my suspicion is that a snake could have work its way into the body moldings in front and rear feders. Remove the tires and check under wheel wells.
Take down the headliner and and all fittings in the vehicle, possible someone could have put a fish under headliner (it has been done before)
If all of this fails you will have to take down the entire dashboard.
Good luck</HTML>
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 18, 2006 07:15AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 64 |
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Re: fumigation chemical smell??? February 24, 2006 02:24AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 237 |
<HTML>The only way to remove an odour is to remove the source of the odour.
This can be done in two ways, physically removing it, or as Ron says, changing it's nature with a chemical reaction.
You can kill bacteria but if the food for them is still there, they will return.
Take ozone for example. Ozone is unstable, which is why it works... as soon as it touches anything it oxidixes it. so it will not penetrate because it is unstable. Fogging is little better, fog or ozone will get everywhere but when it hits it's target, doesn't penetrate.
Imagine you had a bucket of horse manure in a car, ozone and a dozen other products will stop it from smelling by changing the nature of the manure... but only the top most surface... as soon as you give it a stir, it will smell again.
Its the same with other odours, if you disturb the source of the smell, chances are the odour will return.
So you can hardly expect to remove a cigarette smell if you haven't removed all the ash. Smokers tend to use the same hand for both smoking and steering, as a result lots of ash ends up down the steering colum. Then when the air-con comes on it often blows into this area distrubing the ash... in fact it is constantly disturbed by the act of steering.
The answer is to remove the plastic housing, plus the plastic covers from compartments, fuse box, or any other area infront of the driver where ash may have dropped down. You may also have to remove the door panel as ash often gets down inside the window.
Clean all these areas and then apply your chosen odour treatment (ozone, fogger) again with the plastic covers removed.
<a href="[www.clean-image.co.uk]; target="_blank"><font size="1" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Clean Image Car Valeting - Auto detailing in the UK. </font></a></HTML>
This can be done in two ways, physically removing it, or as Ron says, changing it's nature with a chemical reaction.
You can kill bacteria but if the food for them is still there, they will return.
Take ozone for example. Ozone is unstable, which is why it works... as soon as it touches anything it oxidixes it. so it will not penetrate because it is unstable. Fogging is little better, fog or ozone will get everywhere but when it hits it's target, doesn't penetrate.
Imagine you had a bucket of horse manure in a car, ozone and a dozen other products will stop it from smelling by changing the nature of the manure... but only the top most surface... as soon as you give it a stir, it will smell again.
Its the same with other odours, if you disturb the source of the smell, chances are the odour will return.
So you can hardly expect to remove a cigarette smell if you haven't removed all the ash. Smokers tend to use the same hand for both smoking and steering, as a result lots of ash ends up down the steering colum. Then when the air-con comes on it often blows into this area distrubing the ash... in fact it is constantly disturbed by the act of steering.
The answer is to remove the plastic housing, plus the plastic covers from compartments, fuse box, or any other area infront of the driver where ash may have dropped down. You may also have to remove the door panel as ash often gets down inside the window.
Clean all these areas and then apply your chosen odour treatment (ozone, fogger) again with the plastic covers removed.
<a href="[www.clean-image.co.uk]; target="_blank"><font size="1" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Clean Image Car Valeting - Auto detailing in the UK. </font></a></HTML>
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Re: stinky interior November 02, 2009 09:45PM |
Registered: 14 years ago Posts: 689 |
Steam extraction machines leave most of the dirt and smell in the carpet and fabric.The way I have found to clean this problem is fairly cheap.Use a 5
gal. shop vac,a cleaner/degreaser like greased lighting, and a water hose.
Spray the greased lightning on the fabric and carpet then soak it with the
hose.Then use a stiff nylon brush followed by sucking the dirty water out . You may have to do it several times, and it takes awhile to dry, but it removes the smell and the dirt.
gal. shop vac,a cleaner/degreaser like greased lighting, and a water hose.
Spray the greased lightning on the fabric and carpet then soak it with the
hose.Then use a stiff nylon brush followed by sucking the dirty water out . You may have to do it several times, and it takes awhile to dry, but it removes the smell and the dirt.
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Re: stinky interior November 02, 2009 10:02PM |
Registered: 14 years ago Posts: 689 |
Steam extracters remove only part of the dirt and smell.A 5gal shop wet vac , a good cleaner/degreaser, and water hose are all you need. Spray the carpet or fabric with the degreaser/cleaner, wet the area with water, use a stiff nylon brush,and suck the dirt and smell out. It may take several times, and a while
to dry but it works.
to dry but it works.
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Re: stinky interior November 03, 2009 03:54PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Gina
Odor is all about bacteria. If you can eliminate the bacteria that causes the odor you eliminate the odor.
Ozone is but one method of removing the odor. Another is chemical. If the chemical comes in contact with the bacteria it will destroy the odor.
You have two ways to apply the chemical to the surfaces that contain the bacteria:
a. Spray it on fabric or porous surfaces and wipe it on hard surfaces
b. A fogger that turns the chemical into a mist that literally touches all surfaces of the interior.
Do you have another method? Please share it with us.
Regards
BudAbraham
Odor is all about bacteria. If you can eliminate the bacteria that causes the odor you eliminate the odor.
Ozone is but one method of removing the odor. Another is chemical. If the chemical comes in contact with the bacteria it will destroy the odor.
You have two ways to apply the chemical to the surfaces that contain the bacteria:
a. Spray it on fabric or porous surfaces and wipe it on hard surfaces
b. A fogger that turns the chemical into a mist that literally touches all surfaces of the interior.
Do you have another method? Please share it with us.
Regards
BudAbraham
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Re: stinky interior November 06, 2009 12:05AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 112 |
I've been using a cleaner that I've developed. Just spray enough the damping the carpet, scrub and extract. Leaves the carpets totally dry within minutes. I detailed this interior on Tues.
Before I start the cleaning process. Notice the huge stain in the middle of the vehicle.
With one side done so you can see the comparison. The huge stain is gone.
Now another before view, then one side done for comparison and then, the finished job. To detail the interior and clean the outside of Cad. Escalade took about 2 1/2 hours.
San Antonio Mobile Auto Detail
Martin Hernandez
210.213.3782
[www.saMobileCarWash.com]
Before I start the cleaning process. Notice the huge stain in the middle of the vehicle.
With one side done so you can see the comparison. The huge stain is gone.
Now another before view, then one side done for comparison and then, the finished job. To detail the interior and clean the outside of Cad. Escalade took about 2 1/2 hours.
San Antonio Mobile Auto Detail
Martin Hernandez
210.213.3782
[www.saMobileCarWash.com]
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Re: stinky interior November 06, 2009 12:12AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 201 |
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Re: stinky interior November 06, 2009 02:49PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 112 |
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Re: stinky interior November 07, 2009 04:38PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 201 |
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Re: stinky interior November 09, 2009 05:18AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 112 |
Don't worry, as soon as it's ready, I'll let everyone know.
San Antonio Mobile Auto Detail
Martin Hernandez
210.213.3782
[www.saMobileCarWash.com]
San Antonio Mobile Auto Detail
Martin Hernandez
210.213.3782
[www.saMobileCarWash.com]
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Re: stinky interior November 09, 2009 04:29PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
So Martin if I read your post correctly the steps you employed was spraying your special product followed by shampoo and extraction.
Did you vacuum?
Did you agitate the carpet with a rotary or hand brush?
Do you know if the carpet had carpet protection applied to the surface? you would know if the product beaded up...
Anyway if you did not do any of the above but only sprayed and extracted... then it must be a miracle product.
Did you vacuum?
Did you agitate the carpet with a rotary or hand brush?
Do you know if the carpet had carpet protection applied to the surface? you would know if the product beaded up...
Anyway if you did not do any of the above but only sprayed and extracted... then it must be a miracle product.
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Re: stinky interior November 09, 2009 04:31PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
So Martin if I read your post correctly the steps you employed was spraying your special product followed by shampoo and extraction.
Did you vacuum?
Did you agitate the carpet with a rotary or hand brush?
Do you know if the carpet had carpet protection applied to the surface? you would know if the product beaded up...
Anyway if you did not do any of the above but only sprayed and extracted... then it must be a miracle product.
Did you vacuum?
Did you agitate the carpet with a rotary or hand brush?
Do you know if the carpet had carpet protection applied to the surface? you would know if the product beaded up...
Anyway if you did not do any of the above but only sprayed and extracted... then it must be a miracle product.
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Re: stinky interior November 09, 2009 06:08PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Carpet and Upholstery shampoos are based on anionic surfactants that dry into a powder and can then be easily removed with a vacuum cleaner. Alkyl sulfates, sarcocinates and sulosucciantes are often the primary surfactants used in a carpet and upholstery shampoo formula. For lower foam versions, naphthalene and cumene sulfonates are commonly used.
Martin, which did you use in your formula?
Secondary surfactants are used as detergency enhancers, spot removers, foam and viscosity modifiers and antibacterial agents. Ethoxylated amines, for example can boost detergency and spot removing properties. Some amphoterics such as sodium cocoampnopropionate will also increase the detergency and the alkai stablity of the formula. If a quat is used as an antibacterial agent in the formula than the anionic surfactants cannot be used. If that case amphoterics become the primary surfactant.
Martin, does your cleaner have any anti-bacterial agents in it?
Various builders can be used when formulating a carpet and upholstery cleaner, TKPP is small quantities (0.5 - 2.5%) does an excellent job as a builder. Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate is a corrosion inhibitor and provides alkalinity. EDTA, sodium citrate and sodium carbonate can also be used. Sodium biocarbonate is also very popular in these types of cleaners.
Glycol ethers or diLimoneen act as cleaners and degreasers in the formula. Propylene glycol-based ethers such as D PM can be used at 2.5%. If a fragrance is used it must be completely solubilized in the formula.
Martin does yours have a fragrance?
Generally there are enough surfactantss in the formula to dissolve the fragrance. In those cases where a heavy fragrance is used or there are not enough surfactants used to solubilize the fragrance, adding ethoxylasted amines will help this process.
Martin would be very interested in knowing what surfactants, etc that you are using in your carpet and upholstery shampoo.
If any of you readers are as brave as Mr Hernandez and want to try and formulate your own carpet and upholstery shampoo let me know we can provide a some formulas for you to try. Of course, we would like to hear what kind of results you got from your testing and formulations
Regards
Bud Abraham
Martin, which did you use in your formula?
Secondary surfactants are used as detergency enhancers, spot removers, foam and viscosity modifiers and antibacterial agents. Ethoxylated amines, for example can boost detergency and spot removing properties. Some amphoterics such as sodium cocoampnopropionate will also increase the detergency and the alkai stablity of the formula. If a quat is used as an antibacterial agent in the formula than the anionic surfactants cannot be used. If that case amphoterics become the primary surfactant.
Martin, does your cleaner have any anti-bacterial agents in it?
Various builders can be used when formulating a carpet and upholstery cleaner, TKPP is small quantities (0.5 - 2.5%) does an excellent job as a builder. Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate is a corrosion inhibitor and provides alkalinity. EDTA, sodium citrate and sodium carbonate can also be used. Sodium biocarbonate is also very popular in these types of cleaners.
Glycol ethers or diLimoneen act as cleaners and degreasers in the formula. Propylene glycol-based ethers such as D PM can be used at 2.5%. If a fragrance is used it must be completely solubilized in the formula.
Martin does yours have a fragrance?
Generally there are enough surfactantss in the formula to dissolve the fragrance. In those cases where a heavy fragrance is used or there are not enough surfactants used to solubilize the fragrance, adding ethoxylasted amines will help this process.
Martin would be very interested in knowing what surfactants, etc that you are using in your carpet and upholstery shampoo.
If any of you readers are as brave as Mr Hernandez and want to try and formulate your own carpet and upholstery shampoo let me know we can provide a some formulas for you to try. Of course, we would like to hear what kind of results you got from your testing and formulations
Regards
Bud Abraham
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Re: stinky interior November 09, 2009 06:08PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Carpet and Upholstery shampoos are based on anionic surfactants that dry into a powder and can then be easily removed with a vacuum cleaner. Alkyl sulfates, sarcocinates and sulosucciantes are often the primary surfactants used in a carpet and upholstery shampoo formula. For lower foam versions, naphthalene and cumene sulfonates are commonly used.
Martin, which did you use in your formula?
Secondary surfactants are used as detergency enhancers, spot removers, foam and viscosity modifiers and antibacterial agents. Ethoxylated amines, for example can boost detergency and spot removing properties. Some amphoterics such as sodium cocoampnopropionate will also increase the detergency and the alkai stablity of the formula. If a quat is used as an antibacterial agent in the formula than the anionic surfactants cannot be used. If that case amphoterics become the primary surfactant.
Martin, does your cleaner have any anti-bacterial agents in it?
Various builders can be used when formulating a carpet and upholstery cleaner, TKPP is small quantities (0.5 - 2.5%) does an excellent job as a builder. Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate is a corrosion inhibitor and provides alkalinity. EDTA, sodium citrate and sodium carbonate can also be used. Sodium biocarbonate is also very popular in these types of cleaners.
Glycol ethers or diLimoneen act as cleaners and degreasers in the formula. Propylene glycol-based ethers such as D PM can be used at 2.5%. If a fragrance is used it must be completely solubilized in the formula.
Martin does yours have a fragrance?
Generally there are enough surfactantss in the formula to dissolve the fragrance. In those cases where a heavy fragrance is used or there are not enough surfactants used to solubilize the fragrance, adding ethoxylasted amines will help this process.
Martin would be very interested in knowing what surfactants, etc that you are using in your carpet and upholstery shampoo.
If any of you readers are as brave as Mr Hernandez and want to try and formulate your own carpet and upholstery shampoo let me know we can provide a some formulas for you to try. Of course, we would like to hear what kind of results you got from your testing and formulations
Regards
Bud Abraham
Martin, which did you use in your formula?
Secondary surfactants are used as detergency enhancers, spot removers, foam and viscosity modifiers and antibacterial agents. Ethoxylated amines, for example can boost detergency and spot removing properties. Some amphoterics such as sodium cocoampnopropionate will also increase the detergency and the alkai stablity of the formula. If a quat is used as an antibacterial agent in the formula than the anionic surfactants cannot be used. If that case amphoterics become the primary surfactant.
Martin, does your cleaner have any anti-bacterial agents in it?
Various builders can be used when formulating a carpet and upholstery cleaner, TKPP is small quantities (0.5 - 2.5%) does an excellent job as a builder. Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate is a corrosion inhibitor and provides alkalinity. EDTA, sodium citrate and sodium carbonate can also be used. Sodium biocarbonate is also very popular in these types of cleaners.
Glycol ethers or diLimoneen act as cleaners and degreasers in the formula. Propylene glycol-based ethers such as D PM can be used at 2.5%. If a fragrance is used it must be completely solubilized in the formula.
Martin does yours have a fragrance?
Generally there are enough surfactantss in the formula to dissolve the fragrance. In those cases where a heavy fragrance is used or there are not enough surfactants used to solubilize the fragrance, adding ethoxylasted amines will help this process.
Martin would be very interested in knowing what surfactants, etc that you are using in your carpet and upholstery shampoo.
If any of you readers are as brave as Mr Hernandez and want to try and formulate your own carpet and upholstery shampoo let me know we can provide a some formulas for you to try. Of course, we would like to hear what kind of results you got from your testing and formulations
Regards
Bud Abraham
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