att. Don M

Hi Don. I was wondering if you could give me your feedback on some of the Meguiars line up. I was in the auto supply store the other day looking for black dye for faded moldings and I saw the entire meguiars line up. what is the difference between the "gold class" & liquid gold" ? they have many numbered products as well. do they have a pattern for the higher or lower the number the more or less abrasive it is? I was curious since I've never really used any, but I've heard good things. what do you suggest I try? thanks........turboman

Basically, the Pro Line (numbered products) are divided into two groups, each with two main subgroups:

1: Standard (non-clearcoat) paint
A. HAND application
B. MACHINE application

2. Clearcoat paints
A. HAND
B. MACHINE

MACHINE-use products have fewer/finer abrasives than HAND-use products

STANDARD-paint products are more abrasive than Clearcoat paint products.

You can use MACHINE products by hand, and Clearcoat products on standard paint, but doing the reverse is generally not a good idea, unless you have A LOT of experience.

Unless you have a shop, ther'es no need to go through the entire product line-up

The average home detailer (with a car that's has clearcoat) should have the following products on hand:

Consumer Series:

Body Scrub...limited use for first time detailing on older, less maintained cars.

Cleaner/Wax... all around good, removes tar etc. Great if you have limited time to work on the car, cleans AND protects in one step 2 thin coats are better than 1 heavy coat.

Professional Series:

CHOOSE FROM THE FOLLOWING:

1. #3 Machine Glaze...great for good to fair paint finishes (mostly taken care of). Mild polish, multiple coats are safe & recommended...gives NO protection

#7 Show Car Glaze (my personal MUST have)...SLIGHTLY milder than #3. Multiple coats increase the depth and gloss of the paint. Removes or fills mild scratches. Cannot be buffed too much, will not 'dry' leaves a slight film on paint (smears). NO PROTECTION VALUE
*same as consumer series Step #2 Polish*

#9 Excellent for high gloss Black, or dark cars. Hides/removes spiderwebbing. NO PROTECTION VALUE

Any of the above polishes is a must for the best possible gloss/depth. Like I mentioned, I am fond of the #7..it's almost impossible to buff it too much, and leaves the paint looking like it was just sprayed on and still wet.

*I just did my 2002 Cavalier with it yesterday, and the paint looks so wet, it seems like it's about to drip*

For protection, I skip the Meguiars line (although the #20-polymer sealant & the Gold Class Carnuaba are reputed to be excellent). I prefer to use Finish First ( a synthetic www.finishfirstusa.com ) although I do use Liquid Glass or Mother's pure Carnuaba w/o cleaners.

On most clearcoat paints, you should never really have to go more abrasive than the #3, multiple coats of this will normally do a much better job SAFER than using a high abrasive.

**LESS IS BEST** meaning ALWAYS START with the least abrasive product, otherwise you may create more problems than you fix.

I hope this makes sense, forgive me, I had to get the kids off to school, and I'm tired (bed, here I come).

Really, all you SHOULD need is a bottle of Cleaner/Wax, a bottle of #7, and the protective sealand of your choice. With just those three products, you should be able to get your car showroom or better and keep it that way.



Don M
'02 Cavalier LSSC
2200 DOHC

thanks Don, I printed it and will research it further.......