TRI POWER help

I have a 64 GTO Conv. It have been trouble shooting why the tri-power is not kicking in. I will try to expain what it is doing and what I have done to trouble shoot it so far. The tri power is kicking in but the engine is wanting to die as they start to come in. I have replaced all plugs, points, rotor, and cap. Everything has been gapped correct. I was at a lose so I tried retiming everything and that didn't help either. I pulled the air cleaners off and when I move the linkage on the carbs there doesn't seem to be much gas comming out of the forward and rear carbs. ( I am opening them all the way up) Its kinda like a drip out of them rather than a good healthy squirt. I could be wrong but I would think it would squirt in there pretty hard like the center carb does? I pulled the carbs apart and checked the needle to make sure it wasn't stuck but its doing the same thing. The only thing I can think of is maybe the jets have been clogged due to the car sitting for awile and not being run that often. It was a complete redone car including the motor 29 years ago when my dad restored it. He has only put 5000 miles on it since. I'm am very very proud to be the new owner as I have loved this car my whole life. I'm just to my wits ends with my tri power problems right now. Hopefully I didn't confuse anyone that is willing to help me If I did just let me know and I'll try and re word everything. Thanks so much for your time and help.
Scott

Scott, your question was not confusing at all. I would be proud also. Your question about the jets being clogged?... i would think that you would notice dirt or other materials inside your carb. to think that the jets may be clogged but thats not saying you don't have dirty Jets If anything just pull them out and clean them? Your fuel pressure... have you checked the pressure coming out of the pump? Is your timing set properly? Has your linkage been messed with maybe? Hopefully some of this info will help...Joe

Scott, one of the first things I'd check is the float adjustment. If you have any rebuild kits around there is an "L" shaped tool in the kits to check adjustments. If not the easiest way to set the floats is to remove the top of the carb turn upside down and look at the float. the center of the float should be as close to level as possible. I've done this many time on the ones I have rebuilt and it works quite well. Also while you have the tops off take out the jets and be sure there isn't any dirt or sludge clogging the holes. One other thing I can think of is to inspect the fuel lines from the tank to the carbs to be sure there aren't any holes or anything else that could restrict fuel flow.

Please email me and let me know how you made out.
cscottvickie@pennswoods.net

Scott, one of the first things I'd check is the float adjustment. If you have any rebuild kits around there is an "L" shaped tool in the kits to check adjustments. If not the easiest way to set the floats is to remove the top of the carb turn upside down and look at the float. the center of the float should be as close to level as possible. I've done this many time on the ones I have rebuilt and it works quite well. Also while you have the tops off take out the jets and be sure there isn't any dirt or sludge clogging the holes. One other thing I can think of is to inspect the fuel lines from the tank to the carbs to be sure there aren't any holes or anything else that could restrict fuel flow.

Please email me and let me know how you made out.

Scott, one of the first things I'd check is the float adjustment. If you have any rebuild kits around there is an "L" shaped tool in the kits to check adjustments. If not the easiest way to set the floats is to remove the top of the carb turn upside down and look at the float. the center of the float should be as close to level as possible. I've done this many time on the ones I have rebuilt and it works quite well. Also while you have the tops off take out the jets and be sure there isn't any dirt or sludge clogging the holes. One other thing I can think of is to inspect the fuel lines from the tank to the carbs to be sure there aren't any holes or anything else that could restrict fuel flow.

Please email me and let me know how you made out.

You're on the right track when you mention a "drip" visible in the outboard carbs (ie. front & rear carbs; secondary carbs), instead of a healthy squirt. It's probably the accelerator pumps, passages, or orifices in the outboard carbs. The pumps may have deteriorated or the passages may be clogged. This is especially likely if it has been 29 years since they have "gone-thru".

Remember that the outboard carbs are only used when you really get on the gas. If the car sits for a while or if you drive too conservatively, the fuel in the outboard carbs will get stale and deposit varnish on the interior. I've seen outboard carbs so gunked up that it looked like seaweed was growing in them.

In 1964, you could order a vacuum-operated or mechanical secondary linkage. If your's is mechanical (indicated by a pin-in-slot device on the driver's side of the center carb) chances are very good that the accelerator pumps are not delivering enough gas at throttle-up. If, however, your's is vacuum-operated (indicated by a big can-like diaphragm housing behind the rear carb), you may also need to check for vacuum-leakage at the vacuum switch, hoses, and diaphragm as well as the accelerator pump volume.

I know that on a 1966 tri-power, all three will deliver a good squirt, but the center carb has a thicker stream.