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A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here.
Posted by Vesta
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A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 01, 2003 06:47AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 8 |
<HTML>Hard supplies needed:
Wet/Dry vac-1.5hp and up is sufficient
Assortment of vacuum nozzles-including a thin crevice tool
Bucket
Spray nozzle
Foam or Terry Cloth covered wash pads
Wheel brush, body & bumper brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush (soft bristles)
Terry cloth towels (bath towels)
Foam hand wax applicators
California exterior and interior car dusters
Q-tips (for cleaning vents)
Waxes:
Waxes are primarily to seal and protect the paint. They will add some shine, but not as much as a polish will. I recommend the following based on actual use:
Meguairs High Tech Yellow wax #26, Meguiars Polymer Sealant #20, 3Ms Perfect it Show Car Wax (paste only), Mother's Carnuba Wax, Wax Shop's Super Glaze (desspite the name, it is a wax). Zymol is a good wax, but it is a bitch to use and leaves blue residue in the cracks and emblems. The other waxes listed won't.
Polishes and Glazes:
Polishes and glazes are used to add oils to the paint for more shine and smooth the surface for more reflection. I use Meguiars Pro Body Shop line, but if there is not a Meguairs distributer in your area, you will have to order them from [www.meguiars.com] I have used and recommend the following:
Meguairs Hand Polish (Pro Body Shop) and Meguairs Show Car Glaze or Machine Glaze (Mirror Glaze line), Wax Shops's Safe Cut and 3Ms Imperial Hand Glaze. None of these will dry white or haze the rubber or plastic. All will add shine and clarity to the paint surface, but will not remove serious paint defects-that is not their purpose.
Cleaners/Compounds and Swirl Removers
Cleaners and compounds are made to remove serious paint defects, like oxidation, scratches, etc, and swirl removers are used to smooth the surface after using a cleaner/compound and to remove any swirl or scratch marks made by the cleaner/compounds. Always start with the lightest cleaner or compound, and use a stronger one only when necessary. Try any of the following:
Meguairs Dual Action cleaner/polish and Diamond Cut cleaner (Pro Body Shop), Meguiars Fine, Medium or Heavy Cut cleaners (Mirror Glaze line), or any of 3Ms or Wax Shops cleaners and compounds.
For swirl removers, there is Meguairs Swirl Free Polish (PBS) and Swirl Remover (MGL) or 3Ms swirl remover.
Spray Detailers
These are used to clean your car when it is only dusty (after dusting with you car duster), or after washing or waxing to make sure no residue is left on the paint. Meguiars Final Inspection, Quick Detailer, or Wax Shops Slick Stuff all work very well.
Glass Cleaners
Only one recommendation: Eagle's 20/20 Glass cleaner. Works great, is cheap, and repels water almost as well as Rain X.
Interior Cleaners
Woolite-yes, the same Woolite used to gently wash sweaters and stuff like that. Mix it in a spray bottle at 6 parts water and 1 part Woolite. Spray liberally on the surface, use a small plastic brush, scrub the surface and dry with a cloth towel. It works great on all fabrics, carpets, vinyl and yes, leather-in fact, it will leave the leather very soft after using.
Vinyl, Rubber and Leather dressings
Vinyl and Rubber can use the same products; Meguairs Rubber and Vinyl cleaner and conditioner, Meguairs W-Dressing (PBS), STP's Son of a Gun, Armor All-I would discourage using the real shiny and greasy stuff on the interior-it attracts dust and makes the sun reflect the dash into the windshield while driving towards the sun.
For leather, use a dedicated leather conditioner, like Meguairs Gold Class for Leather, Tanners Preserves, Lexol or Eagles leather conditioner.
Miscellaneous
When using Meguiars products, only use the Mirror Glaze or Pro Body Shop lines, not the burgandy bottle stuff like the deep crystal system or Cleaner wax. They are for the casual user, not someone who wants the ultimate in shine.
You do not have to glob on a bunch of wax or polish-a blob the size of a quarter should be enough to cover your entire hood-a 16 oz bottle of wax is enough to wax your car at least 30 times-use just enough to lightly cover the surface of the paint.
When using a polish or glaze, rub into the paint until it looks almost clear, and let sit for 20-30 minutes so the oils can soak in and it is easier to remove.
You do not need a buffer, especially one with a wool pad. The swirl marks are not worth it-and you can do just as good a job by hand without risking swirl marks, burnt paint and the mess the buffers make by slinging wax all over the place.
Do not waste your money on any wax that claims to have Teflon® in it. Unless you are able to apply the wax at 600+ degrees, the telfon is not a viable ingredient-and this is straight from Dupont.
Since my fingers are tired now, if I can think of anything else, I will add it later. If any of you have any products you use that work well, let everyone know.
Thanks to Scott on [board.hondasociety.com];
Wet/Dry vac-1.5hp and up is sufficient
Assortment of vacuum nozzles-including a thin crevice tool
Bucket
Spray nozzle
Foam or Terry Cloth covered wash pads
Wheel brush, body & bumper brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush (soft bristles)
Terry cloth towels (bath towels)
Foam hand wax applicators
California exterior and interior car dusters
Q-tips (for cleaning vents)
Waxes:
Waxes are primarily to seal and protect the paint. They will add some shine, but not as much as a polish will. I recommend the following based on actual use:
Meguairs High Tech Yellow wax #26, Meguiars Polymer Sealant #20, 3Ms Perfect it Show Car Wax (paste only), Mother's Carnuba Wax, Wax Shop's Super Glaze (desspite the name, it is a wax). Zymol is a good wax, but it is a bitch to use and leaves blue residue in the cracks and emblems. The other waxes listed won't.
Polishes and Glazes:
Polishes and glazes are used to add oils to the paint for more shine and smooth the surface for more reflection. I use Meguiars Pro Body Shop line, but if there is not a Meguairs distributer in your area, you will have to order them from [www.meguiars.com] I have used and recommend the following:
Meguairs Hand Polish (Pro Body Shop) and Meguairs Show Car Glaze or Machine Glaze (Mirror Glaze line), Wax Shops's Safe Cut and 3Ms Imperial Hand Glaze. None of these will dry white or haze the rubber or plastic. All will add shine and clarity to the paint surface, but will not remove serious paint defects-that is not their purpose.
Cleaners/Compounds and Swirl Removers
Cleaners and compounds are made to remove serious paint defects, like oxidation, scratches, etc, and swirl removers are used to smooth the surface after using a cleaner/compound and to remove any swirl or scratch marks made by the cleaner/compounds. Always start with the lightest cleaner or compound, and use a stronger one only when necessary. Try any of the following:
Meguairs Dual Action cleaner/polish and Diamond Cut cleaner (Pro Body Shop), Meguiars Fine, Medium or Heavy Cut cleaners (Mirror Glaze line), or any of 3Ms or Wax Shops cleaners and compounds.
For swirl removers, there is Meguairs Swirl Free Polish (PBS) and Swirl Remover (MGL) or 3Ms swirl remover.
Spray Detailers
These are used to clean your car when it is only dusty (after dusting with you car duster), or after washing or waxing to make sure no residue is left on the paint. Meguiars Final Inspection, Quick Detailer, or Wax Shops Slick Stuff all work very well.
Glass Cleaners
Only one recommendation: Eagle's 20/20 Glass cleaner. Works great, is cheap, and repels water almost as well as Rain X.
Interior Cleaners
Woolite-yes, the same Woolite used to gently wash sweaters and stuff like that. Mix it in a spray bottle at 6 parts water and 1 part Woolite. Spray liberally on the surface, use a small plastic brush, scrub the surface and dry with a cloth towel. It works great on all fabrics, carpets, vinyl and yes, leather-in fact, it will leave the leather very soft after using.
Vinyl, Rubber and Leather dressings
Vinyl and Rubber can use the same products; Meguairs Rubber and Vinyl cleaner and conditioner, Meguairs W-Dressing (PBS), STP's Son of a Gun, Armor All-I would discourage using the real shiny and greasy stuff on the interior-it attracts dust and makes the sun reflect the dash into the windshield while driving towards the sun.
For leather, use a dedicated leather conditioner, like Meguairs Gold Class for Leather, Tanners Preserves, Lexol or Eagles leather conditioner.
Miscellaneous
When using Meguiars products, only use the Mirror Glaze or Pro Body Shop lines, not the burgandy bottle stuff like the deep crystal system or Cleaner wax. They are for the casual user, not someone who wants the ultimate in shine.
You do not have to glob on a bunch of wax or polish-a blob the size of a quarter should be enough to cover your entire hood-a 16 oz bottle of wax is enough to wax your car at least 30 times-use just enough to lightly cover the surface of the paint.
When using a polish or glaze, rub into the paint until it looks almost clear, and let sit for 20-30 minutes so the oils can soak in and it is easier to remove.
You do not need a buffer, especially one with a wool pad. The swirl marks are not worth it-and you can do just as good a job by hand without risking swirl marks, burnt paint and the mess the buffers make by slinging wax all over the place.
Do not waste your money on any wax that claims to have Teflon® in it. Unless you are able to apply the wax at 600+ degrees, the telfon is not a viable ingredient-and this is straight from Dupont.
Since my fingers are tired now, if I can think of anything else, I will add it later. If any of you have any products you use that work well, let everyone know.
Thanks to Scott on [board.hondasociety.com];
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 02, 2003 03:35AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 751 |
<HTML>Vespa, quite a bit on here that I dont agree with, but this point in particular..
"You do not need a buffer, especially one with a wool pad. The swirl marks are not worth it-and you can do just as good a job by hand without risking swirl marks, burnt paint and the mess the buffers make by slinging wax all over the place."
I dont see how anyone who wants to do a a professional detail can do it without a buffer, in my mind there is no way you can match with your bare hands what you can do with a buffer. You simply can not get the speed or the heat that modern compounds etc work at ,with your hands.
Swirl marks are not an issue if your do this for a living and have good tecnique, neither are burnt paints, and slinging wax all over the place, the only time this happens is when you have an inexperienced person using the buffer.
And if someone isnt experienced then they shouldnt be detailing cars.
Jim.</HTML>
"You do not need a buffer, especially one with a wool pad. The swirl marks are not worth it-and you can do just as good a job by hand without risking swirl marks, burnt paint and the mess the buffers make by slinging wax all over the place."
I dont see how anyone who wants to do a a professional detail can do it without a buffer, in my mind there is no way you can match with your bare hands what you can do with a buffer. You simply can not get the speed or the heat that modern compounds etc work at ,with your hands.
Swirl marks are not an issue if your do this for a living and have good tecnique, neither are burnt paints, and slinging wax all over the place, the only time this happens is when you have an inexperienced person using the buffer.
And if someone isnt experienced then they shouldnt be detailing cars.
Jim.</HTML>
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 02, 2003 01:01PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 98 |
<HTML>IT TAKES A PROFFESIONAL TO ANSWER LIKE THAT JIM. I APPLAUD YOU. YOU ARE VERY RIGHT, I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO LEARN HOW TO REMOVE SCRATCH AND SWIRL MARKS FOR OVER A YEAR AND I HAVE HAD NO LUCK. IF YOU COULD BE OF ANY ASSISTANCE I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. I AM A AUTO GLASS INSTALLER AND BUSINESS OWNER BY TRADE BUT I WOULD SOMEDAY LIKE TO ADD DETAILING TO MY BUSINESS. I CAN CLEAN ENGINES,CLEAN AND DRESS INTERIORS BUT BUFFING I AM A FAILURE.
STAN</HTML>
STAN</HTML>
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 05, 2003 01:03PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 102 |
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 07, 2003 06:14AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>You cannot possibly clean carpets and fabric upholstery without a soil extractor. With only a vacuum you are leaving tremendous dirt and chemical residue in the carpet and upholstery fibers.
Any professional carpet and upholstery cleaner will tell you this results in one of two things:
1. Wicking or
2. Resoiling
A good example of what you are doing without an extractor is if you got into the shower; got yourself wet; shampooed your hair and soaped up your body. Then jumped out and used a towel to wipe the shampoo and soap off your body.
What happens? Of course, you have a sticky film all over your body.
And that is what happens when you do not rinse carpets and upholstery with an extractor. FACT!!!
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
Any professional carpet and upholstery cleaner will tell you this results in one of two things:
1. Wicking or
2. Resoiling
A good example of what you are doing without an extractor is if you got into the shower; got yourself wet; shampooed your hair and soaped up your body. Then jumped out and used a towel to wipe the shampoo and soap off your body.
What happens? Of course, you have a sticky film all over your body.
And that is what happens when you do not rinse carpets and upholstery with an extractor. FACT!!!
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 07, 2003 01:20PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 98 |
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 07, 2003 02:46PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>You will have to be more specific than that. What shampoos?
From all that I know about carpet cleaning and the research I have done on the subject the issue of rinsing is absolutely critical to a clean carpet. In fact, they make a big deal about properly rinsing the spoting and stain removing chemical as well as the shampoo.
Think about it, is it not logical if you put shampoo in carpet fibers and grind it in with the dirt and oils that you would need more than just suction to get it all out?
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
From all that I know about carpet cleaning and the research I have done on the subject the issue of rinsing is absolutely critical to a clean carpet. In fact, they make a big deal about properly rinsing the spoting and stain removing chemical as well as the shampoo.
Think about it, is it not logical if you put shampoo in carpet fibers and grind it in with the dirt and oils that you would need more than just suction to get it all out?
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 07, 2003 03:22PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 98 |
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Re: A equipment list and product list for newbies listed here. October 11, 2003 08:16AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Vesta:
While I applaud you for trying to help others out their to detail their cars, I hope you don't do detailing for a living. What you quoted is fine for cleaning your own car or mom's "soccer mom mobile" but I'm sure all professionals would disagree.
Here's your statements for which I can not be quiet:
"Interior Cleaners -
Woolite-yes, the same Woolite used to gently wash sweaters and stuff like that. Mix it in a spray bottle at 6 parts water and 1 part Woolite. Spray liberally on the surface, use a small plastic brush, scrub the surface and dry with a cloth towel. It works great on all fabrics, carpets, vinyl and yes, leather-in fact, it will leave the leather very soft after using." EXTRACTOR AND PROFESSIONAL CARPET PRE-SPOT AND SHAMPOO.
"Vinyl, Rubber and Leather dressings -
Armor All" ARMOR ALL HAS NO PLACE IN A DETAILER'S CHEMICAL LOCKER SINCE IT DRYS AND CRACKS VINYL AND PLASTICS OVER TIME. I BELIEVE IT WAS 1995 OR 1996 THERE WAS A CIVIL LAWSUIT AGAINST ARMOR ALL FOR THIS REASON.
"You do not have to glob on a bunch of wax or polish-a blob the size of a quarter should be enough to cover your entire hood-a 16 oz bottle of wax is enough to wax your car at least 30 times-use just enough to lightly cover the surface of the paint." I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THIS ONE, 30 TIMES??
"When using a polish or glaze, rub into the paint until it looks almost clear, and let sit for 20-30 minutes so the oils can soak in and it is easier to remove." THIS ONE IS NEWS TO ME. WE'RE NOT OILING TEAK, WE'RE RENEWING THE FINISH. BUFF UNTIL ULTIMATE SHINE, NO SETTING IN. YOU LET SEALER SIT FOR 15 MIN, NOT POLISH.
You do not need a buffer, especially one with a wool pad. The swirl marks are not worth it-and you can do just as good a job by hand without risking swirl marks, burnt paint and the mess the buffers make by slinging wax all over the place. EVERY PROFESSIONAL DETAILER MUST HAVE A HI-SPEED BUFFER, PERIOD. WHY DO ALL DETAILERS WEAR APRONS...BECAUSE OF SLING!
I do however agree with you on the Teflon. Its only good, in my opinion, for non-skid deck surfaces on a boat. Slippery free!
Anyway, I don't mean to sound like a critical person, it's just that if you're going to preach on the subject, make sure you're 100% accurate and informed.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
While I applaud you for trying to help others out their to detail their cars, I hope you don't do detailing for a living. What you quoted is fine for cleaning your own car or mom's "soccer mom mobile" but I'm sure all professionals would disagree.
Here's your statements for which I can not be quiet:
"Interior Cleaners -
Woolite-yes, the same Woolite used to gently wash sweaters and stuff like that. Mix it in a spray bottle at 6 parts water and 1 part Woolite. Spray liberally on the surface, use a small plastic brush, scrub the surface and dry with a cloth towel. It works great on all fabrics, carpets, vinyl and yes, leather-in fact, it will leave the leather very soft after using." EXTRACTOR AND PROFESSIONAL CARPET PRE-SPOT AND SHAMPOO.
"Vinyl, Rubber and Leather dressings -
Armor All" ARMOR ALL HAS NO PLACE IN A DETAILER'S CHEMICAL LOCKER SINCE IT DRYS AND CRACKS VINYL AND PLASTICS OVER TIME. I BELIEVE IT WAS 1995 OR 1996 THERE WAS A CIVIL LAWSUIT AGAINST ARMOR ALL FOR THIS REASON.
"You do not have to glob on a bunch of wax or polish-a blob the size of a quarter should be enough to cover your entire hood-a 16 oz bottle of wax is enough to wax your car at least 30 times-use just enough to lightly cover the surface of the paint." I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THIS ONE, 30 TIMES??
"When using a polish or glaze, rub into the paint until it looks almost clear, and let sit for 20-30 minutes so the oils can soak in and it is easier to remove." THIS ONE IS NEWS TO ME. WE'RE NOT OILING TEAK, WE'RE RENEWING THE FINISH. BUFF UNTIL ULTIMATE SHINE, NO SETTING IN. YOU LET SEALER SIT FOR 15 MIN, NOT POLISH.
You do not need a buffer, especially one with a wool pad. The swirl marks are not worth it-and you can do just as good a job by hand without risking swirl marks, burnt paint and the mess the buffers make by slinging wax all over the place. EVERY PROFESSIONAL DETAILER MUST HAVE A HI-SPEED BUFFER, PERIOD. WHY DO ALL DETAILERS WEAR APRONS...BECAUSE OF SLING!
I do however agree with you on the Teflon. Its only good, in my opinion, for non-skid deck surfaces on a boat. Slippery free!
Anyway, I don't mean to sound like a critical person, it's just that if you're going to preach on the subject, make sure you're 100% accurate and informed.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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