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Difficult-to-clean Wheels
Posted by Gary Giffin
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Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 20, 2003 04:43PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 74 |
<HTML>We've all seen the wheels that expose the inner "core" of the wheel, like on some Jaguars, Porsches, BMWs, etc. Most people don't even bother to clean that part of the wheel, yet it collects the most brake dust. I've heard of removing the wheel to clean it. I've done that on show cars, but it's not practical for the everyday jobs. Besides using acid, what are some creative ways to clean that part of the wheel without removing the wheel?
I always start by soaking the inside of the wheel with non-acid wheel cleaner and letting it dwell for as long a possible. Then I've been using a combination of a spoke brush, a towel dipped in my wash bucket crammed in with my hand, and my hand itself to agitate the inside of the wheel. Needless to say, my hands are black when I'm done and I've cut my them all up on sharp pieces of metal lurking back there. There's got to be a better way!
The pressure washer alone will blast away some of the brake dust after the wheel cleaner soaks for a while, but without using an acid, agitation is necessary to really make the wheel sparkling clean, especially if they are caked with brake dust.
Does anybody have any tricks or special brushes they use for this? I think if I could find some type of very low-profile brush with a long, ridgid handle that won't bend, it would do the trick. Those wire "bottle" brushes do a good job, but only about 3 inches into the wheel. After that, you loose leverage as the brush bends. Other brushes can't fit between the wheel and the brake parts. Any suggestions?</HTML>
I always start by soaking the inside of the wheel with non-acid wheel cleaner and letting it dwell for as long a possible. Then I've been using a combination of a spoke brush, a towel dipped in my wash bucket crammed in with my hand, and my hand itself to agitate the inside of the wheel. Needless to say, my hands are black when I'm done and I've cut my them all up on sharp pieces of metal lurking back there. There's got to be a better way!
The pressure washer alone will blast away some of the brake dust after the wheel cleaner soaks for a while, but without using an acid, agitation is necessary to really make the wheel sparkling clean, especially if they are caked with brake dust.
Does anybody have any tricks or special brushes they use for this? I think if I could find some type of very low-profile brush with a long, ridgid handle that won't bend, it would do the trick. Those wire "bottle" brushes do a good job, but only about 3 inches into the wheel. After that, you loose leverage as the brush bends. Other brushes can't fit between the wheel and the brake parts. Any suggestions?</HTML>
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 20, 2003 05:11PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1 |
<HTML>Hi Gary, Have you tried going to your local hardware store and getting a radiator brush???? These brushes are great as they are 12inch long with softish bristles which can be sloted through the spokes on wheels, i have been using one for years now and so far i have not come across a wheel inside i have not been able to clean with a cleaner(non-acidic) apart from BBS x spoke wheels.
They also have ridgid handles so you get no flex at all.
Hope this helps you in your quest....
I still prefer to stick my hand inside with a small string sponge, as it is quicker, but when i can no longer do that, out come my trusted rad brush.</HTML>
They also have ridgid handles so you get no flex at all.
Hope this helps you in your quest....
I still prefer to stick my hand inside with a small string sponge, as it is quicker, but when i can no longer do that, out come my trusted rad brush.</HTML>
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 20, 2003 06:19PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Gary:
It seems what you're already doing is probably the best way to get to the inside. Yeah, watch out for the brake shields as they can cut you all up. Give a dust pan brush a try. That what I use for wheels that have an opening of at least 2 inches. I'm able to get the brush in there (the bristles bend with easy and no scratching) and still able to position the handle to what direction I want.
For Ferraris, Corvettes, and other high-end wheels with the larger spoke openings, I opt for the hand and degreaser method. But if you still can't get in there, I guess the only way to rid it 100% completely of brake dust is to take the wheel off, but thats pretty impractical.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
It seems what you're already doing is probably the best way to get to the inside. Yeah, watch out for the brake shields as they can cut you all up. Give a dust pan brush a try. That what I use for wheels that have an opening of at least 2 inches. I'm able to get the brush in there (the bristles bend with easy and no scratching) and still able to position the handle to what direction I want.
For Ferraris, Corvettes, and other high-end wheels with the larger spoke openings, I opt for the hand and degreaser method. But if you still can't get in there, I guess the only way to rid it 100% completely of brake dust is to take the wheel off, but thats pretty impractical.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 21, 2003 12:34AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 103 |
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 21, 2003 03:14AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 22, 2003 01:43AM |
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 22, 2003 02:42AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Brian:
Your comment about using hydroflouric acid wheel cleaner brings up a good point. I do not know if you or other detailers know how absolutely dangerous this product is to your health.
If it gets on the skin it pentrates and can kill you if you are exposed to too much of it.
It will blind you and will destroy lung tissue if you breathe too much of the fumes.
Most companies, including my own, have ceased selling HF wheel cleaners due to the danger and of course, liability.
No matter how good a chemical it might be I think you all ought to consider the possible hazardous that it presents to you and your employee's lives.
Just a few well intentioned thoughts.
BUDA</HTML>
buda
Your comment about using hydroflouric acid wheel cleaner brings up a good point. I do not know if you or other detailers know how absolutely dangerous this product is to your health.
If it gets on the skin it pentrates and can kill you if you are exposed to too much of it.
It will blind you and will destroy lung tissue if you breathe too much of the fumes.
Most companies, including my own, have ceased selling HF wheel cleaners due to the danger and of course, liability.
No matter how good a chemical it might be I think you all ought to consider the possible hazardous that it presents to you and your employee's lives.
Just a few well intentioned thoughts.
BUDA</HTML>
buda
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 22, 2003 03:34AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 435 |
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Re: Difficult-to-clean Wheels October 22, 2003 03:54AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Bud:
I don't use this stuff anymore since I read about the fatal and dangerous concerns associated with it. I remember reading an article in Professional Carwashing & Detailing where a little girl was playing in her fathers shop and spilled the hydroflouric acid on her and died.
Also, I hear it will absorb into the skin and and penetrate all the way down to the bone, since it's attracted to calcium (or is that hydrochloric acid I use on boats?)
But anyway, this is the best stuff for chrome and wire wheels but wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Scary stuff. I used to treat it like it was anthrax (gloves, respirator, long sleeves.)</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
I don't use this stuff anymore since I read about the fatal and dangerous concerns associated with it. I remember reading an article in Professional Carwashing & Detailing where a little girl was playing in her fathers shop and spilled the hydroflouric acid on her and died.
Also, I hear it will absorb into the skin and and penetrate all the way down to the bone, since it's attracted to calcium (or is that hydrochloric acid I use on boats?)
But anyway, this is the best stuff for chrome and wire wheels but wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Scary stuff. I used to treat it like it was anthrax (gloves, respirator, long sleeves.)</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Gary look at these October 22, 2003 05:52AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 894 |
<HTML>Whats up Gary! Its maddan, I use this brush weekly, check it out. Its called a new england wheel brush.
Heres the link www.autogeek.net/brushes.html
The one I use is the longest brush they offer, looks like a cone. It cleans nice with some custom wheel cleaner, you may have to go over it again, but it gets the job done faster than using a towel. YOu may have to move the car forward a little to clean in between the brake caliper and rim because tool is too thick for that area.</HTML>
Heres the link www.autogeek.net/brushes.html
The one I use is the longest brush they offer, looks like a cone. It cleans nice with some custom wheel cleaner, you may have to go over it again, but it gets the job done faster than using a towel. YOu may have to move the car forward a little to clean in between the brake caliper and rim because tool is too thick for that area.</HTML>
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Re: Gary look at these October 22, 2003 11:24PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 103 |
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Re: Gary look at these October 22, 2003 11:32PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 74 |
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Re: Gary look at these October 23, 2003 03:48AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 103 |
<HTML>Bud,
As requested:
Hydrofluoric acid (hereafter HF) is highly toxic as previously mentioned. Specifically, the acid doesn't dissociate readily like in Hydrochloric acid (HCl) so it penetrates all tissues easily. The fluoride ions interact with minerals such as Calcium and Magnesium, enzyme activities, and dissolves all tissue including bone. The mechanisms are complex but I'd be happy to post them if anyone wants to know about them. The little girl mentioned suffered burns that affected her soft tissue and bone but she died because of cardiac arrythmias and pulmonary failure. Again, let me know if you'd like more details.
Seriously, I'd absolutely quit using it. No reason to expose yourself to this. There are plenty of quality wheelcleaners to choose from.</HTML>
As requested:
Hydrofluoric acid (hereafter HF) is highly toxic as previously mentioned. Specifically, the acid doesn't dissociate readily like in Hydrochloric acid (HCl) so it penetrates all tissues easily. The fluoride ions interact with minerals such as Calcium and Magnesium, enzyme activities, and dissolves all tissue including bone. The mechanisms are complex but I'd be happy to post them if anyone wants to know about them. The little girl mentioned suffered burns that affected her soft tissue and bone but she died because of cardiac arrythmias and pulmonary failure. Again, let me know if you'd like more details.
Seriously, I'd absolutely quit using it. No reason to expose yourself to this. There are plenty of quality wheelcleaners to choose from.</HTML>
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Re: Gary look at these October 23, 2003 04:48AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>If anyone is interested in seeing hydrochloric acid at work, check out this page on my website:
During Use: [www.precision-online.com]
After Use: [www.precision-online.com]
This is one chemical I can not stop using since there is no other product on the market powerful enough to dissolve caked on sea scum and sea water stains.
Like Robert stated, there are alternatives to HF but HCI is hard to match. Luckily, this isn't as harmful as HF but still dangerous. While using this product on this boat in the pic, the acid would drip off the hull onto the driveway and actually melt the tar (dissolved the tar into a green mist--sizzled too.)
Again, 3M respiratior, chemical resistant rubber gloves, safety glasses and long sleeves.
Has anyone ever heard of any ssafer product that matches performance? If so, please let me know.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
During Use: [www.precision-online.com]
After Use: [www.precision-online.com]
This is one chemical I can not stop using since there is no other product on the market powerful enough to dissolve caked on sea scum and sea water stains.
Like Robert stated, there are alternatives to HF but HCI is hard to match. Luckily, this isn't as harmful as HF but still dangerous. While using this product on this boat in the pic, the acid would drip off the hull onto the driveway and actually melt the tar (dissolved the tar into a green mist--sizzled too.)
Again, 3M respiratior, chemical resistant rubber gloves, safety glasses and long sleeves.
Has anyone ever heard of any ssafer product that matches performance? If so, please let me know.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: Gary look at these October 23, 2003 05:11PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 103 |
<HTML>HCl is no where near as hazardous as HF so there is some comfort there. It is great to hear you take the hazards of HCl seriously anyways. The concentration is the hazard as HCl is the acid in our stomachs. Is your respirator rated for chemical fumes? I would consider a move to a goggle that resists fumes better than safety glasses, you don't want to develop cataracts later! Also... DO NOT WEAR CONTACT LENSES WHEN WORKING WITH ANY INDUSTRIAL CHEMICAL!! HCl is actually on the border between liquid and gas when you use it in concentrated form so the fumes are VERY dangerous as they are concentrated. The fumes can damage eyes, mucous membranes (skin in nose, mouth throat) , lungs, skin and clothing.
As for replacement, I am not familiar with sea scum and salt water stains, but I would recommend trying dilutions until you lose effect then go back to the last working concentration.
Lastly, you mentioned it running onto a driveway. I'm not scolding you, but I would double check local ordances as you may find yourself in hot water should somebody complain!</HTML>
As for replacement, I am not familiar with sea scum and salt water stains, but I would recommend trying dilutions until you lose effect then go back to the last working concentration.
Lastly, you mentioned it running onto a driveway. I'm not scolding you, but I would double check local ordances as you may find yourself in hot water should somebody complain!</HTML>
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Starting Up Bus. Need Help October 23, 2003 06:06PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1 |
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Re: Starting Up Bus. Need Help October 23, 2003 06:53PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 103 |
<HTML>Be wary of partnerships, they can end the biz long before you're ready. Do a google search for detailing and you'll come up with tons! I recommend you start with all the retailer's sites as they give free advice and how to's. Then formulate a plan, figure your start-up costs and call them to negotiate a discount. Email me for more info if you want!</HTML>
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Re: Starting Up Bus. Need Help October 23, 2003 06:54PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 103 |
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