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Engine Detailing
Posted by Brian Angelucci
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Engine Detailing October 20, 2003 11:27PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>I'd like to get everyones insight and procedures on engine detailing. How far down do you clean? What cleaners do you use? What dressings you prefer.
My procedure:
*After a customer drops off his/her car, I let the engine cool down to the touch with the hood open.
*If car is older, I spray WD-40 on the distributor & plugs.
*Next I pressure was entire underside of the hood (painted parts only)and the outer boundaries/jambs of the engine bay. I try to keep the spray pattern off any critical parts that could be affected from flooding or prevening start up.
*Then I spray Auto Magic's Red Hot on entire underside of hood, jambs, radiator, and every part of the engine. Let sit for about 2 minutes.
*Aggitate every part of underside and entire engine compartment with brush (I like the one that comes with a dust pan - long handle and stiff enough to clean but soft enough that won't scratch.)
*Finally, I use a hi pressure rinse, again keeping spray pattern away from critical components.
Within 10 seconds of rinse, I start the car and let it run for 10 minutes.
Again, after cool down, I use Auto Magic's EZ Rubber Concentrate. It's water based. My supplier says I'm the only one that orders this product. I love it. Then wipe off excess dressing, leaving entire engine area (hoses, rubber, wires, weather strippings, plastics) with a perfect satin shine.
I get down as far as the eye can see. A lot of people will spend 2 hours on the engine, getting down to the oil pan.
Anyone?
Take care,
Brian Angelucci
Precision Auto & Marine
Visit our website at: www.precision-online.com</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
My procedure:
*After a customer drops off his/her car, I let the engine cool down to the touch with the hood open.
*If car is older, I spray WD-40 on the distributor & plugs.
*Next I pressure was entire underside of the hood (painted parts only)and the outer boundaries/jambs of the engine bay. I try to keep the spray pattern off any critical parts that could be affected from flooding or prevening start up.
*Then I spray Auto Magic's Red Hot on entire underside of hood, jambs, radiator, and every part of the engine. Let sit for about 2 minutes.
*Aggitate every part of underside and entire engine compartment with brush (I like the one that comes with a dust pan - long handle and stiff enough to clean but soft enough that won't scratch.)
*Finally, I use a hi pressure rinse, again keeping spray pattern away from critical components.
Within 10 seconds of rinse, I start the car and let it run for 10 minutes.
Again, after cool down, I use Auto Magic's EZ Rubber Concentrate. It's water based. My supplier says I'm the only one that orders this product. I love it. Then wipe off excess dressing, leaving entire engine area (hoses, rubber, wires, weather strippings, plastics) with a perfect satin shine.
I get down as far as the eye can see. A lot of people will spend 2 hours on the engine, getting down to the oil pan.
Anyone?
Take care,
Brian Angelucci
Precision Auto & Marine
Visit our website at: www.precision-online.com</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: Engine Detailing October 21, 2003 12:13PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 74 |
<HTML>That's EXACTLY what I do, except I use Auto Magic's Motor Degreaser and Super Dress-It. I also start the engine just BEFORE I rinse. I've heard that running the engine while you rinse reduces the chances of water getting into where it shouldn't be. However, make sure you turn it off before spraying the dressing on... Or else you'lll have dressing everywhere BUT on the engine!</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 23, 2003 02:13AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 751 |
<HTML>Many (many) years ago , whne I was training to be a tech at college, we were taught about how metals expand and contract, and how fractures occur when different areas of the metal expand or contract at different rates of speed and temperature increase/drop, wouldnt hosing down the engine when it's running increase the risk of cracking the exhaust manifold etc ?
Not a criticism , just curious .
Jim.</HTML>
Not a criticism , just curious .
Jim.</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 23, 2003 11:01PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 73 |
<HTML>sounds pretty reasonable to me. Im not familiar with the particualar products you use. I do about the same thing. It is helpful to know what will not tolerate getting wet. Each car is different in that. Its good to make sure all the caps for oil, powerstearing and the like are secure, as well as fuse box covers. I have had some trouble in the past with cars that have the plugs in wells on the top of the engine. They usually have a cover plate over them with little or no way to stop water leakage. Its possible to fill the plug wells and not even know it till a month or 2 down the road. With labor rates around $90 an hour to fixit, it makes you think. As far as dressing the engine I would find out why your the only one using it. From what I understand dressings with silicon can fowl the O2 sensor. I went to using a non-silicon dressing but it didnt give the desired results. Any more Its rare that I dress an engine. It kind of depends on the customers expectation. If they really care that the engine is dressed. It is impressive but can detract in the long run. Case in point, If the car is setting on a dealers lot during pollen season or simialr dusty environment, dressing will cause it to stick more.
I would say whatever the customer dictates mixed with your experience.</HTML>
I would say whatever the customer dictates mixed with your experience.</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 23, 2003 11:09PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>pmack:
I am the only using this EZ Rubber Concentrate because a newer version of dressing came out which I use that on the tires, moldings, etc. but not on the engine. Why? Because of preference. My engine dressing is clear, not milky. The milky dressing tends to leave white puddles or droplets in unreachable areas, which can be unsightly. And the dressing I use on the engine is water-based, making it safe on the 02 sensors. Every professional will dress and engine since it provides the proper satin shine and mositure to the rubbers, plastics, hoses, etc. I also use this dressing on wheel wells since its the most economical, yet productive dressing in the Auto Magic line I've seen.
Hope this helps.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
I am the only using this EZ Rubber Concentrate because a newer version of dressing came out which I use that on the tires, moldings, etc. but not on the engine. Why? Because of preference. My engine dressing is clear, not milky. The milky dressing tends to leave white puddles or droplets in unreachable areas, which can be unsightly. And the dressing I use on the engine is water-based, making it safe on the 02 sensors. Every professional will dress and engine since it provides the proper satin shine and mositure to the rubbers, plastics, hoses, etc. I also use this dressing on wheel wells since its the most economical, yet productive dressing in the Auto Magic line I've seen.
Hope this helps.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: Engine Detailing October 24, 2003 12:44AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 73 |
<HTML>Brian
Im just wondering if my post was offensive to you. It was not intended to be. I was just sharing some insights, and experiences.
I wasnt saying that dressing an engine is bad, in fact I would prefer to do so. But for my used car side of the business they would rather not have dressing on the engine that would cause dust and pollen to stick to the engine. They prefer to open the hood on a used car and have it look no different than a new one.
I wouldnt consider it unprofessional to take into consideration the wishes of the consumer.
But I may have take your statement wrong about every professional will dress the engine. Really I am just wondering. lol</HTML>
Im just wondering if my post was offensive to you. It was not intended to be. I was just sharing some insights, and experiences.
I wasnt saying that dressing an engine is bad, in fact I would prefer to do so. But for my used car side of the business they would rather not have dressing on the engine that would cause dust and pollen to stick to the engine. They prefer to open the hood on a used car and have it look no different than a new one.
I wouldnt consider it unprofessional to take into consideration the wishes of the consumer.
But I may have take your statement wrong about every professional will dress the engine. Really I am just wondering. lol</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 24, 2003 01:40AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>pmack:
Sorry if my post sounded defensive but thats just the way I write alot. No offense was taken. Having a difference in opinions and procedures is what makes these forums interesting to read!
In my opinion of dressing engines, I do believe that a dressed engine makes the whole compartment brand new. Also, after degreasing and cleaning an engine compartment, the hoses and surroundings look dull and worn. That's when I apply my dressing and and watch the hoses, etc come back to life. Obviously, noone likes that greasy look so thats why I wipe off the excess dressing, leaving a clean, dark satin look. Dust and pollen is everywhere and will land on the engine no matter what.
But in the meantime at a dealership, when the hood is open, customers get to see a clean, dressed engine instead of a clean unfinished one. Dressing and engine is also good for the hoses, weatherstripping, plastic panels, wires, etc. since the dressing is keeping these components agile, flexible and moisturized...instead of dry.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
Sorry if my post sounded defensive but thats just the way I write alot. No offense was taken. Having a difference in opinions and procedures is what makes these forums interesting to read!
In my opinion of dressing engines, I do believe that a dressed engine makes the whole compartment brand new. Also, after degreasing and cleaning an engine compartment, the hoses and surroundings look dull and worn. That's when I apply my dressing and and watch the hoses, etc come back to life. Obviously, noone likes that greasy look so thats why I wipe off the excess dressing, leaving a clean, dark satin look. Dust and pollen is everywhere and will land on the engine no matter what.
But in the meantime at a dealership, when the hood is open, customers get to see a clean, dressed engine instead of a clean unfinished one. Dressing and engine is also good for the hoses, weatherstripping, plastic panels, wires, etc. since the dressing is keeping these components agile, flexible and moisturized...instead of dry.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: Engine Detailing October 24, 2003 03:15AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 435 |
<HTML>I do NOT dress engines. The reason is, again, preference. I do not like the look of a dressed engine. I also tend to use very little dressing inside a car. I have bought many new cars, none of them every came with a nice shinny dash. None came with a nice shinny engine either. Years ago my father owned a used car lot, back then, they took the engine apart and painted everything! Of course back then, there were less parts too. When I open an engine compartment and it looks shinny, satin or painted, it implies to me that something has been covered up. I like a clean compartment. One where you can see the parts and not the grease. A clean engine says it has been well maintained. I see it this way, if the owner took the time to clean in here, then the owner new how to maintain a car. The cars that are maintained sell faster. it is an illusion but that is also a part of what I do.
I like to degrease a cold engine. I wait for it to cool for hours. If it is hot and I ad water, we may get some problems. I use low pressure and degreaser. I rinse very well. I od this as often as needed to insure the engine area is clean. It is my objective to provide a new looking car, in order for me to do that, I have to know what a new car looks like. There are days when I go car shopping to remind myself what I am shooting for.</HTML>
I like to degrease a cold engine. I wait for it to cool for hours. If it is hot and I ad water, we may get some problems. I use low pressure and degreaser. I rinse very well. I od this as often as needed to insure the engine area is clean. It is my objective to provide a new looking car, in order for me to do that, I have to know what a new car looks like. There are days when I go car shopping to remind myself what I am shooting for.</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 24, 2003 03:58AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 73 |
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Re: Engine Detailing October 24, 2003 04:20AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 56 |
<HTML>Phil & Brian..I can see the validity of both your points about dressing v. non-dressing. I think a lot depends on the type of car & consumer that you're dealing with. If it's a high end, European car, then, I believe, those people will feel better about a dressed engine for a couple of reasons; 1) They really want to feel like they're buying a new car; 2) any dirt that accumulates after they buy it will be their dirt and not someone elses. From my experience dealing with high-end customers, they're a lot more anal and want their cars sparkling. They'll pay top dollar, but they want it clean all the way around.
As for the Ford/GM/Chrysler crowd (me included) I think these customers take Phil's approach. A clean, but not sparkling engine shows that it was cared for and treated with respect.
Either way, it's an important service to provide because it definitely improves the life of the engine/engine compartment and boosts re-sale values. There was a study done in Australia where they took 2 identical cars. One had 40,000 miles on it but looked a little rough. The other had 75,000 miles on it but it had been touched-up and polished. They put them next to each other on the lot and asked women which they would be more likely to buy. Something like 90% picked the nicer looking car because they felt that a car that looked good on the outside was well cared for by the previous owner and they would be less likely to have problems with it than the other tattered car, even though it had half the miles on it.
Anyhow, how long does it take you to clean the engine? And as far as protecting components, I've heard of putting plastic or foil secured with a tight rubber band over the component helps. Do you guys do anything like that?
Just curious because I know come next spring, I'll be getting regular requests to clean engines. Also, do any of you do undercarriage cleaning? If so, what procedures do you follow for that?</HTML>
As for the Ford/GM/Chrysler crowd (me included) I think these customers take Phil's approach. A clean, but not sparkling engine shows that it was cared for and treated with respect.
Either way, it's an important service to provide because it definitely improves the life of the engine/engine compartment and boosts re-sale values. There was a study done in Australia where they took 2 identical cars. One had 40,000 miles on it but looked a little rough. The other had 75,000 miles on it but it had been touched-up and polished. They put them next to each other on the lot and asked women which they would be more likely to buy. Something like 90% picked the nicer looking car because they felt that a car that looked good on the outside was well cared for by the previous owner and they would be less likely to have problems with it than the other tattered car, even though it had half the miles on it.
Anyhow, how long does it take you to clean the engine? And as far as protecting components, I've heard of putting plastic or foil secured with a tight rubber band over the component helps. Do you guys do anything like that?
Just curious because I know come next spring, I'll be getting regular requests to clean engines. Also, do any of you do undercarriage cleaning? If so, what procedures do you follow for that?</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 24, 2003 04:57AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Rod:
Thanks for the reply. When I say dressed I don't mean greasy, I mean sprayed, absorbed and wiped. I have pictures I took of clean but undressed engines and most are in need of a good shot of dressing, if anyone is interested.
It usually takes me 20 minutes for the average daily driven car. This includes: pressure washing, chemical dwell time and pressure rinse. Then I let the car run while I prep the rest of the car. After cool down, I hit with the dressing, let it absorb then wipe excess off. So yeah, 20 minutes total.
For the undercarriages I don not do at this time. I pressure wash but thats about it. Noone has ever requested for rubberized undercoating yet. I used to do this a lot when I interned at the body shop but thats as much as I've ever done with the undercariages.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
Thanks for the reply. When I say dressed I don't mean greasy, I mean sprayed, absorbed and wiped. I have pictures I took of clean but undressed engines and most are in need of a good shot of dressing, if anyone is interested.
It usually takes me 20 minutes for the average daily driven car. This includes: pressure washing, chemical dwell time and pressure rinse. Then I let the car run while I prep the rest of the car. After cool down, I hit with the dressing, let it absorb then wipe excess off. So yeah, 20 minutes total.
For the undercarriages I don not do at this time. I pressure wash but thats about it. Noone has ever requested for rubberized undercoating yet. I used to do this a lot when I interned at the body shop but thats as much as I've ever done with the undercariages.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: Engine Detailing October 24, 2003 04:58AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
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Re: Engine Detailing October 25, 2003 02:53AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 73 |
<HTML>I deal with high dollar car. retail and dealer customers..for my dealer customers they have little concern for dressing the engine. Their choice. I make the rest of the car look top notch. The sales manager came from another similar dealer and said he never saw such quality and sells similar cars for far more here than there. Just to back up the statement about clean cars selling faster and for more than one that isnt as clean.
Covering componets with plastic or aluminum foil is a good idea. done it. just make sure the engine is cool so not to melt the plastic wrap and rubberband. It is still possible to blow it off with a direct hit from a pressure washer so still be careful. And make sure you unwrap the air intake before you start it. lol...expeirnce talking...it will run much better.
i have undercoated and cleaned various cars on occasions. Cleaning the undercariage is a rare concern of the customer and I tend to do it only when salt is on the roads. (muddy cars too) On one occasion i had to clean my undercariage due to the smell of a dead animal that was laying on the road. Took a couple times to get that out. The most extream was an S-10 that ended up in a swamp. Having to put it on a lift, make a huge mess and spend hours getting mud and vegitation out of everything. Hope you dont have to do that.
You may want to check on any regulations in your area about cleaning engines. I have heard it is illeagal to clean engines without having an oil water seperator. (thats a question i would really like to know for sure) and where to find that info.
Hope that helps</HTML>
Covering componets with plastic or aluminum foil is a good idea. done it. just make sure the engine is cool so not to melt the plastic wrap and rubberband. It is still possible to blow it off with a direct hit from a pressure washer so still be careful. And make sure you unwrap the air intake before you start it. lol...expeirnce talking...it will run much better.
i have undercoated and cleaned various cars on occasions. Cleaning the undercariage is a rare concern of the customer and I tend to do it only when salt is on the roads. (muddy cars too) On one occasion i had to clean my undercariage due to the smell of a dead animal that was laying on the road. Took a couple times to get that out. The most extream was an S-10 that ended up in a swamp. Having to put it on a lift, make a huge mess and spend hours getting mud and vegitation out of everything. Hope you dont have to do that.
You may want to check on any regulations in your area about cleaning engines. I have heard it is illeagal to clean engines without having an oil water seperator. (thats a question i would really like to know for sure) and where to find that info.
Hope that helps</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 25, 2003 03:19AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 56 |
<HTML>Thanks Brian & Pmack. I really appreciate your replies. I know that come next spring I'll be getting plenty of engine cleaning requests as well as undercarriage. We use salt on the roads here in Michigan, so almost everyone that gets their cars washed will pay the extra buck for undercarriage cleaning when they go through the car wash in the spring!! I figure I'll just put the car up on a floor jack & go at the underside with my pressure washer.
Pmack....check with the fire marshall in the city or cities where you do your work. They'll tell you what the requirements are for the city and most of those guys are up to date on federal regulations. My experience has been that most cities just follow the federal regs. If that's the case, then you'll need an oil/water seperator. You can also check your state website and see if they have state EPA or DEQ (Dept. of Environ. Quality) regulations. Most of them do. If you can't find anything on the website, just give your local extension office a call. They'll also be up to date on all the federal regs.
I got very lucky in that my shop will share quarters with an auto service center and they have to put in an oil-water seperator. They cost about $10k. Fines for operting without one are even steeper.</HTML>
Pmack....check with the fire marshall in the city or cities where you do your work. They'll tell you what the requirements are for the city and most of those guys are up to date on federal regulations. My experience has been that most cities just follow the federal regs. If that's the case, then you'll need an oil/water seperator. You can also check your state website and see if they have state EPA or DEQ (Dept. of Environ. Quality) regulations. Most of them do. If you can't find anything on the website, just give your local extension office a call. They'll also be up to date on all the federal regs.
I got very lucky in that my shop will share quarters with an auto service center and they have to put in an oil-water seperator. They cost about $10k. Fines for operting without one are even steeper.</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 25, 2003 09:41PM |
<HTML>1.- LET THE ENGINE COOL DOWN, IN A PUMP UP SPRAYER SPRAY A HEAVY COAT OF DEGREASER ( I USE SUPER STEAM BY MY POWER WASHER DISTRIBUTER) OVER THE TOP, SIDES, AND BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE TRYING TO AVOID ANY ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS AND PAINTED ITEMS.
2. - LET SIT FOR 5 + MINS DEPENDING ON DEGREE OF FILTH
3. - REAPPLY THE DEGREASER KEEPING IT WET AT ALL TIMES.
4. - SCRUB WITH BRUSH AS NEEDED
5. - RINSE WITH HOT WATER POWER WASHER APPROX 150 DEGREE WATER AROUND 800 - 1000 PSI SHOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH, START AT THE BACK AND WORK FOWARD HITTING IT FROM ALL DIRECTIONS ANGLES, TRY TO AVOID ELECTRICAL COMPONTENTS.
6- REPEAT STEPS 2 THRU 5 IF REALLY DIRTY
7. - BLOW DRY ENGINE WITH AIR COMPRESSOR OR THE REVERSE END OF A VACUUM CLEANER. MOP UP AND SITTING PUDDLES.
8. - TURN ON ENGINE FOR ABOUT 5 MINS TO ENSURE COMPLETE DRYNESS
9. - APPLY DRESSING (I USE AUTO MAGIC "SUPER DRESS IT") IN A SPRAY BOTTLE OR PUMP UP SRAYER MAKING SURE IT IS APPLIED EVENLY MOP UP AND PUDDLES.
10. - TURN ON ENGINE AND CLOSE THE HOOD FOR 5 TO 10 MINS THIS BAKES ON THE DREESING AND MAKES IT LAST LONGER PLUS IT WONT COLLECT AS MUCH DUST</HTML>
2. - LET SIT FOR 5 + MINS DEPENDING ON DEGREE OF FILTH
3. - REAPPLY THE DEGREASER KEEPING IT WET AT ALL TIMES.
4. - SCRUB WITH BRUSH AS NEEDED
5. - RINSE WITH HOT WATER POWER WASHER APPROX 150 DEGREE WATER AROUND 800 - 1000 PSI SHOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH, START AT THE BACK AND WORK FOWARD HITTING IT FROM ALL DIRECTIONS ANGLES, TRY TO AVOID ELECTRICAL COMPONTENTS.
6- REPEAT STEPS 2 THRU 5 IF REALLY DIRTY
7. - BLOW DRY ENGINE WITH AIR COMPRESSOR OR THE REVERSE END OF A VACUUM CLEANER. MOP UP AND SITTING PUDDLES.
8. - TURN ON ENGINE FOR ABOUT 5 MINS TO ENSURE COMPLETE DRYNESS
9. - APPLY DRESSING (I USE AUTO MAGIC "SUPER DRESS IT") IN A SPRAY BOTTLE OR PUMP UP SRAYER MAKING SURE IT IS APPLIED EVENLY MOP UP AND PUDDLES.
10. - TURN ON ENGINE AND CLOSE THE HOOD FOR 5 TO 10 MINS THIS BAKES ON THE DREESING AND MAKES IT LAST LONGER PLUS IT WONT COLLECT AS MUCH DUST</HTML>
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Re: Engine Detailing October 25, 2003 10:57PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 73 |
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Re: Engine Detailing October 26, 2003 03:26AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
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