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cement
Posted by Larry O'Brien
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cement September 10, 2004 01:35PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 16 |
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Re: cement September 10, 2004 01:46PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 243 |
<HTML>Larry, have you ever used Acid?? If not read up on all of the safety factors,and then get your self some Hydrochloric acid. Be sure to watch your dilutions rates. You can start with 20 parts water and 1 part acid,as thats what I've used in the past to clean dried mortor off brick and block. If its dried /cured cement you may have to drop to 16 parts water 1 part acid. Thus making the solution stronger. " JUST" be careful, and remember, when blending, to put water into the container first, and then the Acid. Reverse order will cause an eruption. Be sure to use all necessary safety equipment..... No Shorts cuts here... Period. Have a charged water hose handy for flushing.................... Good luck...................:-) Brandy !</HTML>
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Re: cement September 10, 2004 02:16PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 112 |
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Re: cement September 10, 2004 03:06PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1 |
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Re: cement September 10, 2004 03:34PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>For years, being a supplier to a large company that does over 25,000 vehicles a year for insurance companies, port ops, etc, have provided a safe method.
It is not a 'fast" method, and like anything is not always 100% successful, but has proven to be effective most of the time, with out employee or vehicle concerns of negative effects.
This works on fairly fresh deposits, of no more than 30 days from time of exporsure.
It is simply a matter of mixing our "A" product correctly, having the vehicles in a shaded areas, so as to allow proper dwell time, not allowing the "A" product to dry, and very mild agitation, following a 5 to 7 minute dwell time.
Will this work for you or others?
Don't know, but at least we have a fairly successful track record to date.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
It is not a 'fast" method, and like anything is not always 100% successful, but has proven to be effective most of the time, with out employee or vehicle concerns of negative effects.
This works on fairly fresh deposits, of no more than 30 days from time of exporsure.
It is simply a matter of mixing our "A" product correctly, having the vehicles in a shaded areas, so as to allow proper dwell time, not allowing the "A" product to dry, and very mild agitation, following a 5 to 7 minute dwell time.
Will this work for you or others?
Don't know, but at least we have a fairly successful track record to date.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
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Re: cement September 10, 2004 04:03PM |
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Re: cement September 10, 2004 04:09PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
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Re: cement September 10, 2004 11:33PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 112 |
<HTML>We're talking about dried cement on rocker panels, wheel wells....??
Fresh or baked-on as ketch says (30 days); methods would vary. F-350 monster used for site-work, or bad luck for a nice 5-series?
If the former, I would not hesitate to be aggresive with muracic.
The 5-series?,....
That's why ya'll rock. Always picking up something new!
Regards,
Ft. Myers, Ivan's next *NOT* target.</HTML>
-Get that great new car feeling!-
Fresh or baked-on as ketch says (30 days); methods would vary. F-350 monster used for site-work, or bad luck for a nice 5-series?
If the former, I would not hesitate to be aggresive with muracic.
The 5-series?,....
That's why ya'll rock. Always picking up something new!
Regards,
Ft. Myers, Ivan's next *NOT* target.</HTML>
-Get that great new car feeling!-
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Re: cement September 11, 2004 12:40AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 71 |
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Re: cement September 12, 2004 01:17AM |
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Re: cement September 12, 2004 04:45AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 146 |
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Re: cement September 16, 2004 09:19PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 16 |
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Re: cement September 16, 2004 10:37PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 71 |
<HTML>The steam is just to soften enough to scrape off with a plastic scraper , like detailplus sales..the lower levels where you find cement usually are tough anyway...but must admit I have turned a few dealer cars paint a little white here and there.ha ha ha..like buffing you just have to keep the steam moving and not stay in one place !</HTML>
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Re: cement September 17, 2004 12:07AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Muratic Acid is what brick masons used to remove motar residue from bricks after the laying is completed.
If kept away from rubber and plastic trim you should be ok in using this on the painted surface.
As someone recommended contact a masonry supply company that sell muratic acid and tell them what you want to use it for and get their recommendation.
CLAY
Absolutely not. The first time you pickup the cement in the clay bar it would act like a piece of sandpaper, scratching and marring the finish.
Are you not warned when using clay to not drop it on the ground for fear of getting dirt and grit particles in the bar??? Using it on cement is far worse.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
PS: Yes you need to neutralize the surface after applying acid, but are you certain that Simple Green is the answer? What is the pH? What does it have in it? Any caustics?</HTML>
buda
If kept away from rubber and plastic trim you should be ok in using this on the painted surface.
As someone recommended contact a masonry supply company that sell muratic acid and tell them what you want to use it for and get their recommendation.
CLAY
Absolutely not. The first time you pickup the cement in the clay bar it would act like a piece of sandpaper, scratching and marring the finish.
Are you not warned when using clay to not drop it on the ground for fear of getting dirt and grit particles in the bar??? Using it on cement is far worse.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
PS: Yes you need to neutralize the surface after applying acid, but are you certain that Simple Green is the answer? What is the pH? What does it have in it? Any caustics?</HTML>
buda
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Re: cement September 17, 2004 12:36AM |
<HTML> Melissa : I stand corrected on the heat of the steam. It seems reasonable that keeping it moving will control how hot the paint gets.
Bud : I had thought the clay would pick up the cement the way it does dirt and thank you for correcting that assumption .
Doug
" Put brain in gear before engaging mouth ".</HTML>
Bud : I had thought the clay would pick up the cement the way it does dirt and thank you for correcting that assumption .
Doug
" Put brain in gear before engaging mouth ".</HTML>
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Re: cement September 17, 2004 12:54AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Doug:
We have to be careful about terminology. CLAY does not pickup "dirt" it picks up film, by my definition.
Dirt is the gritty material that builds up on a car requiring the need to go to a carwash, or to be hand washed.
It is this "dirt" that really creates the scratches that everyone claims automatic carwashes create on paint finishes.
If the "dirt" is not removed from the surface before automatic washing or hand washing you will get scratching on the paint.
So, CLAY does not pickup dirt, it picks up invisible surface film or paint overspray particles. And, if these are large enough and hard enough they too, could scratch the paint.
As Ketch indicated, you will have to buff out a car that has been clayed in most cases.
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS</HTML>
buda
We have to be careful about terminology. CLAY does not pickup "dirt" it picks up film, by my definition.
Dirt is the gritty material that builds up on a car requiring the need to go to a carwash, or to be hand washed.
It is this "dirt" that really creates the scratches that everyone claims automatic carwashes create on paint finishes.
If the "dirt" is not removed from the surface before automatic washing or hand washing you will get scratching on the paint.
So, CLAY does not pickup dirt, it picks up invisible surface film or paint overspray particles. And, if these are large enough and hard enough they too, could scratch the paint.
As Ketch indicated, you will have to buff out a car that has been clayed in most cases.
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS</HTML>
buda
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Re: cement September 17, 2004 03:35AM |
<HTML> Bud : By dirt, I referred to bonded particles that come off when the car is clayed . Such contaminates can be made of anything. I've had experiance using Meguiars fine clay and Turtle Wax Professional coarse clay and not once has it been necessary to " buff out " a car to remove scratches from the claying.
Clay grabs anything that protrudes from the surface but I doubt it can remove road film . I define road film as the oily staining crud that comes off only with a cleaner or compound and sometimes with solvent .
During claying, if I leave a mark of some sort, I touch it up with Body Scrub or Scratch X etc.
( Good thing I never tried to clay cement, though )
Doug</HTML>
Clay grabs anything that protrudes from the surface but I doubt it can remove road film . I define road film as the oily staining crud that comes off only with a cleaner or compound and sometimes with solvent .
During claying, if I leave a mark of some sort, I touch it up with Body Scrub or Scratch X etc.
( Good thing I never tried to clay cement, though )
Doug</HTML>
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