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Buffer
Posted by Jason McClure
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Buffer March 11, 2005 03:07AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1 |
<HTML>Hi,
I've been detailing my own car for several years and have done work for friends and family. I'd like to start doing it as a profession. What is the best buffer on the market? How do I learn to use it properly? What other "tools" will I need and are recommended?
Thanks for your help!
Jason</HTML>
I've been detailing my own car for several years and have done work for friends and family. I'd like to start doing it as a profession. What is the best buffer on the market? How do I learn to use it properly? What other "tools" will I need and are recommended?
Thanks for your help!
Jason</HTML>
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Re: Buffer March 11, 2005 04:39AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 64 |
<HTML>Best is a big word around here...in many cases its preference and your comfort and skill level. Many guys love Cyclo, while others go Porter Cable DA and then into the high speed machines.
Within our locations we use a combo of the Porter Cable and the Makita high speeds. We use Cylco for Aluminum polishing only. With the right pad/product combo, we can get paint looking flawless with the Porter Cable. For paint issues we then use the Makita. Again...preferance plays a huge roll but I will say this that I simply have little use for the Cyclo on paint...our techs turn out far better work with the Porter Cable. This should at least make you even more confused...
As for gaining skill...go to work for a shop or attend training. One the job training for detailers within a new business start-up is a risky way to enter a business and your odds of building a successful business are greatly reduced taking that avenue...that is why the turn over is so great within this industry I feel...so many detailers...so few business people.
Good luck with your venture!</HTML>
Renny Doyle
Attention To Details
Aircraft & Auto Detailing
www.detailingsuccess.com
Proud Detailers of Air Force One!
PDTA Member
Within our locations we use a combo of the Porter Cable and the Makita high speeds. We use Cylco for Aluminum polishing only. With the right pad/product combo, we can get paint looking flawless with the Porter Cable. For paint issues we then use the Makita. Again...preferance plays a huge roll but I will say this that I simply have little use for the Cyclo on paint...our techs turn out far better work with the Porter Cable. This should at least make you even more confused...
As for gaining skill...go to work for a shop or attend training. One the job training for detailers within a new business start-up is a risky way to enter a business and your odds of building a successful business are greatly reduced taking that avenue...that is why the turn over is so great within this industry I feel...so many detailers...so few business people.
Good luck with your venture!</HTML>
Renny Doyle
Attention To Details
Aircraft & Auto Detailing
www.detailingsuccess.com
Proud Detailers of Air Force One!
PDTA Member
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Re: Buffer March 11, 2005 01:50PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 243 |
<HTML>Jason, Renny is right about which one, is a preference.
We use strictly air driven buffers/polishers for 99% of our Big Truck work. I revert back to the air driven "RO" to put the product on, then remove it with the "D" handle Makita, on cars and suv's and small trucks. I like the soft start of the makita and varable speed controls close to the thumb where you can speed it up without stopping, and looking down each time. My preference here only!
I wuz strictly a Milwaukee / Porter Cable man before using the MAkita at a friend of mines Body Shop. Using Dewalt,Porter Cable and the Milwaukee machines all day I switched over to the Makita.
I tried a Cyclo Buffer the other day,and worked on a big section on an Aluminum Tanker Trailer. I personally didn't like the machine much. Much heavier than the air driven drum buffers, and flapper wheel pencil buffers,and not nearly as effective!
Now this is not comparing Red Delicious Apples vs Red Delicious Apples, but I'm going to keep it around until I get one of my Big Truck Customers
personal vehicles to Detail,then give it a good go!
Joe,Ketch,Brian,Bud and others will have a different tune to this Thread,but starting out ---- Get a Porter-Cable "RA" to use to work the material on with ,then Get a Makita Varible Speed "D" handle to use in Correcting and Polishing.... Remember opinions are like "Ass-holes", everybodys got one.
One other thing! Do you know someone in the Body Shop business or Auto/Truck Salvage Business? Most folks will let you practice on old fenders and other body panels. The up side to being at a good Body Shop location is that you can get some free pointers, of do's and don't's while there practicing on the old panels........ Brandy !</HTML>
We use strictly air driven buffers/polishers for 99% of our Big Truck work. I revert back to the air driven "RO" to put the product on, then remove it with the "D" handle Makita, on cars and suv's and small trucks. I like the soft start of the makita and varable speed controls close to the thumb where you can speed it up without stopping, and looking down each time. My preference here only!
I wuz strictly a Milwaukee / Porter Cable man before using the MAkita at a friend of mines Body Shop. Using Dewalt,Porter Cable and the Milwaukee machines all day I switched over to the Makita.
I tried a Cyclo Buffer the other day,and worked on a big section on an Aluminum Tanker Trailer. I personally didn't like the machine much. Much heavier than the air driven drum buffers, and flapper wheel pencil buffers,and not nearly as effective!
Now this is not comparing Red Delicious Apples vs Red Delicious Apples, but I'm going to keep it around until I get one of my Big Truck Customers
personal vehicles to Detail,then give it a good go!
Joe,Ketch,Brian,Bud and others will have a different tune to this Thread,but starting out ---- Get a Porter-Cable "RA" to use to work the material on with ,then Get a Makita Varible Speed "D" handle to use in Correcting and Polishing.... Remember opinions are like "Ass-holes", everybodys got one.
One other thing! Do you know someone in the Body Shop business or Auto/Truck Salvage Business? Most folks will let you practice on old fenders and other body panels. The up side to being at a good Body Shop location is that you can get some free pointers, of do's and don't's while there practicing on the old panels........ Brandy !</HTML>
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