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RV detailing
Posted by TONY R
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RV detailing October 28, 2003 09:37PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 33 |
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Re: RV detailing October 29, 2003 01:00AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 73 |
<HTML>Oh my gosh....dont go there.........lol.........first... is it yours?.........I have done one the size of a greyhound bus....It was new so There wasnt much damage to deal with the first time. I didnt have to do the top, only the sides...I used an orbital/da buffer..Applied the best sealant I could find. They dont get any easier as time goes by. wash it one day and let it air dry over night if the water you use doesnt spot.(like well water) The one I have done I needed a scaffold. With the right tools It took 2 of us about 2 and a half hours to apply and remove the sealant. Its not a market I would want to be in though...theres time for washing, windows, tires and rims, and Its huge...hehehehe..The thing is having the right tools..if you dont have them your going to be on it for days. and the older it is the more difficult it gets.
hope that was some help.</HTML>
hope that was some help.</HTML>
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Re: RV detailing October 29, 2003 04:03AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 435 |
<HTML>I live next to one of the largest RV parks in the south. RV's are a breeze. there is no insdie work, all walls are flat and the roofs you can walk on. An average size RV will take all day but will put a few hundred bucks in your pocket. Do the chrome and wheels for extra money. Stay away from older models or bad paint. Faded RV's suck.
If I can help, let me know.</HTML>
If I can help, let me know.</HTML>
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Re: RV detailing October 29, 2003 12:55PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 74 |
<HTML>Phil is right. I've heard other detailers on other forums groan and complain about detailing RV's. Some have charged upwards of $25 per foot because they think it's takes DAYS of hard work... bull! One person can do a 40 foot RV in a single 8-hour day and make at least $400.
You do need the right tools... A pressure washer, buffers, and a scaffold. I use a temporary scaffold consisting of two ladders and an 8-foot 2x12. I also have a 6' extension wand for my pressure washer to help me blast the bugs off the windshield where I can't reach.
Washing is a breeze with a pressure washer and a pole brush. You don't need to dry them because gravity causes the water to sheet down the sides. Any residual spots will come off when you buff.
RV's do not have clearcoat paint. They are usually either gel coat or single stage epoxy paint. You should not have to clay them because contaminants usually don't stick to the sides and most RV's have a rubber roof. You do not need to do a 3-stage buff process because the do not have a high gloss finish. A one-step buffing process is sufficient on most RV's in good shape. If they are oxidized, you will have to compound them prior to your one-step.</HTML>
You do need the right tools... A pressure washer, buffers, and a scaffold. I use a temporary scaffold consisting of two ladders and an 8-foot 2x12. I also have a 6' extension wand for my pressure washer to help me blast the bugs off the windshield where I can't reach.
Washing is a breeze with a pressure washer and a pole brush. You don't need to dry them because gravity causes the water to sheet down the sides. Any residual spots will come off when you buff.
RV's do not have clearcoat paint. They are usually either gel coat or single stage epoxy paint. You should not have to clay them because contaminants usually don't stick to the sides and most RV's have a rubber roof. You do not need to do a 3-stage buff process because the do not have a high gloss finish. A one-step buffing process is sufficient on most RV's in good shape. If they are oxidized, you will have to compound them prior to your one-step.</HTML>
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Re: RV detailing October 29, 2003 06:50PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 33 |
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Re: RV detailing October 29, 2003 07:02PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 435 |
<HTML>Here is where it can get confusing. Some RV's are in good shape and just need a polish, others have met the devil and need to be sprinkled with holy water. It is the later that I try and avoid BUT when I get one of the bads ones, I tell the owner that thier rolling home is in bad shape and the best we can hope for is an improvement.
In that case, boat products work well. Until then, GOOD car products work fine.
Keep in mind that chrome is an upsale and it should be cleaned with non amoinia cleaner. Wax on chrome causes piting. Chrome needs to breath and wax prevents that. Wax makes it shine, but my customers tend to be by every few months. I do not want to pay for sixty miles of chrome. I tell em this from the start and let them all debate what wax does and does not do for chrome.
For starters, try a good polish and paint sealant. Gary's info on tools is in line with myown experince. It also seems he and I both are eager to help. Go get em and makes some serious cash...and get a tan.</HTML>
In that case, boat products work well. Until then, GOOD car products work fine.
Keep in mind that chrome is an upsale and it should be cleaned with non amoinia cleaner. Wax on chrome causes piting. Chrome needs to breath and wax prevents that. Wax makes it shine, but my customers tend to be by every few months. I do not want to pay for sixty miles of chrome. I tell em this from the start and let them all debate what wax does and does not do for chrome.
For starters, try a good polish and paint sealant. Gary's info on tools is in line with myown experince. It also seems he and I both are eager to help. Go get em and makes some serious cash...and get a tan.</HTML>
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Re: RV detailing October 29, 2003 08:13PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 33 |
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Re: RV detailing October 29, 2003 11:29PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
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Re: RV detailing October 30, 2003 04:52AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 382 |
<HTML>I've done a few. For me to do a 40' RV from roof to tires takes about 12 hours. I wash the whole thing down with a pressure washer like Gary said. I spray the whole front end with a cleaner/degreaser, let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it down with a coarse (bug) sponge. Then I power wash the whole thing.
I use an aluminum painter's plank that I picked up at Home Depot. It's like Gary's 2X12, but a lot sturdier and I'm a pretty big guy. I used a 2X12, but never felt to comfortable on it as it bounced a little every time I moved and I'm not real keen on heights, lol!!!
If the RV is one of the newer ones where it's aluminum panels, they actually are clearcoated and usually in good shape. If they're the gelcoated fiberglas panels and in good shape, I'll use my Cyclo with my paint perecting creams putting polish on one pad & sealant on another. It comes out beautiful. But, as I'm reading this, I guess I could use my buffer with a cleaner wax & be done in half the time!!!
If the RV is an older fiberglas unit and is looking dull, but not oxidized, I'll use the 3M marine wax and get excellent results.
If it's oxidized, then I'll compound and one-step like Gary does. And I'll be sure to tell the owner that it'll come out a lot better, but it may not be perfect. I guess when they've oxidized, the only real way to get rid of it is to give it an acid wash and I don't mess with that stuff.
Next, I clean all the glass and polish the wheels using wheel cleaner and brushes. If that doesn't get it good enough and the dealer wants them better, I'll use some Flitz, Never Dull or jewelers rouge (applied using a high-speed drill and a real pain to get into tight spots) and charge extra if I have to go to that extreme.
Finally, I silicone the tires and the splashguards and I'm done. I charge from $18-$22/foot and average $6-700/unit. It's pretty hard work, and if it's hot out, you have to drink plenty of Gatorade or you'll dehydrate, but the money's nice!!!</HTML>
I use an aluminum painter's plank that I picked up at Home Depot. It's like Gary's 2X12, but a lot sturdier and I'm a pretty big guy. I used a 2X12, but never felt to comfortable on it as it bounced a little every time I moved and I'm not real keen on heights, lol!!!
If the RV is one of the newer ones where it's aluminum panels, they actually are clearcoated and usually in good shape. If they're the gelcoated fiberglas panels and in good shape, I'll use my Cyclo with my paint perecting creams putting polish on one pad & sealant on another. It comes out beautiful. But, as I'm reading this, I guess I could use my buffer with a cleaner wax & be done in half the time!!!
If the RV is an older fiberglas unit and is looking dull, but not oxidized, I'll use the 3M marine wax and get excellent results.
If it's oxidized, then I'll compound and one-step like Gary does. And I'll be sure to tell the owner that it'll come out a lot better, but it may not be perfect. I guess when they've oxidized, the only real way to get rid of it is to give it an acid wash and I don't mess with that stuff.
Next, I clean all the glass and polish the wheels using wheel cleaner and brushes. If that doesn't get it good enough and the dealer wants them better, I'll use some Flitz, Never Dull or jewelers rouge (applied using a high-speed drill and a real pain to get into tight spots) and charge extra if I have to go to that extreme.
Finally, I silicone the tires and the splashguards and I'm done. I charge from $18-$22/foot and average $6-700/unit. It's pretty hard work, and if it's hot out, you have to drink plenty of Gatorade or you'll dehydrate, but the money's nice!!!</HTML>
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Re: RV detailing October 30, 2003 05:06AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
<HTML>i hate to tell you this, but all rv's arn't created equal. i worked for blue bird wanderlodge in fort valley ga. they clearcoat all their rv's and most of their other coachs. there's talk that they may go to a single stage on some of their coachs,but not the wanderlodge. i was told the wanderlodge cost between 200 and 400.000 dollars each.
george</HTML>
george moore
george</HTML>
george moore
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