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park and store for the upcoming Wisconsin winter
Posted by Roy Strackbein
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park and store for the upcoming Wisconsin winter September 18, 2005 03:26PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1 |
<HTML>Greetings all:
My question is on the best way to get a ’94 Z24 Chevy cavalier convertible ready to park and store for the upcoming Wisconsin winter. In the past as far as the exterior/body was concerned, it was just washed, waxed and then parked in a heated garage for the snowy and “salty” winter months. However this year it’s going to spend the season off under the limited protection of a carport. In regard to the specifics, what kind of cover would be best, a water proof Tyvek plastic type cover that doesn’t breath or a water resistant woven material that does pass moisture. What’s the best way to prepare the paint, wash and wax with a carbana product or/and a paint sealer should be used. What’s the consensus on what I believe are wax-less paint glazes. In years past I’ve used a product called Astro-sheild on my cars and fiberglass boats with nice results. Also if anyone has any other helpful tips or advice on storage like a box of baking soda or vented bag of Kitty litter in the back seat, I am more than curious to hear them as well.
Thank you in advance for any and all responses, and thank you for allowing me to post in this discussion group, which seems truly better than any other that I’ve found on detailing!</HTML>
My question is on the best way to get a ’94 Z24 Chevy cavalier convertible ready to park and store for the upcoming Wisconsin winter. In the past as far as the exterior/body was concerned, it was just washed, waxed and then parked in a heated garage for the snowy and “salty” winter months. However this year it’s going to spend the season off under the limited protection of a carport. In regard to the specifics, what kind of cover would be best, a water proof Tyvek plastic type cover that doesn’t breath or a water resistant woven material that does pass moisture. What’s the best way to prepare the paint, wash and wax with a carbana product or/and a paint sealer should be used. What’s the consensus on what I believe are wax-less paint glazes. In years past I’ve used a product called Astro-sheild on my cars and fiberglass boats with nice results. Also if anyone has any other helpful tips or advice on storage like a box of baking soda or vented bag of Kitty litter in the back seat, I am more than curious to hear them as well.
Thank you in advance for any and all responses, and thank you for allowing me to post in this discussion group, which seems truly better than any other that I’ve found on detailing!</HTML>
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Vehicle storage (Long) September 19, 2005 02:52AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 51 |
<HTML>
Storing your vehicle, ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a show car for whatever reason, only requires a few precautions to ensure that it is preserved and will be operational after it’s in hibernation. All cars hate to sit idle, so don't expect to top off the fluids and drive out of the garage.
But a little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches. To help vehicle owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.
Vehicle Storage
•Change the oil and filter.
•Replace brake fluid with DOT 3
•Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.
•Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids
•Spray distributor with WD-40
•Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply an oil rich polish.
•Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leatherique Rejuvinator oil to all leather surfaces, and use a box of DampRid moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)
•Apply Wurth HHS-2000 clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails
•Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)
•Apply leather conditioner to all leather surfaces.
•Close all windows, trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust with a cloth to ensure mice do not enter
•Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'
•Over inflate the tyres (50psi) Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)
•Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.
•Remove sparkplugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.
•Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.
•Alternatively use a Battery Tender, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC. Two-colour LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings
•Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover
•Place a plastic sheet under to the vehicle to avoid dampness capillary action and it will also form a moisture barrier.
•Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.
•Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the DampRid is still operational
Encapsulation Storage System:
A perfect solution for those enthusiasts faced with the dilemma of long-term storage of any car or truck. The unique (and patented) Car Capsule virtually "seals" the vehicle in its own purified environment. A continuous airflow keeps the car dry and prevents corrosion and mildew. It also eliminates that "musty" door that is so common with stored vehicles. The air is filtered, and is circulated by a highly efficient fan that costs just a little over a dollar per month to operate and is warranted for 5 years, it features a laminated fabric base-mat, double polished 8-mil PVC shroud and heavy-duty nylon zipper closure. The material is warranted for two years. It's easy to use, and shows-off your pride and joy while protecting it, available in a variety of sizes from 14' to 20' in length
JonM</HTML>
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
Storing your vehicle, ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a show car for whatever reason, only requires a few precautions to ensure that it is preserved and will be operational after it’s in hibernation. All cars hate to sit idle, so don't expect to top off the fluids and drive out of the garage.
But a little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches. To help vehicle owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.
Vehicle Storage
•Change the oil and filter.
•Replace brake fluid with DOT 3
•Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.
•Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids
•Spray distributor with WD-40
•Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply an oil rich polish.
•Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leatherique Rejuvinator oil to all leather surfaces, and use a box of DampRid moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)
•Apply Wurth HHS-2000 clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails
•Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)
•Apply leather conditioner to all leather surfaces.
•Close all windows, trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust with a cloth to ensure mice do not enter
•Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'
•Over inflate the tyres (50psi) Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)
•Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.
•Remove sparkplugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.
•Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.
•Alternatively use a Battery Tender, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC. Two-colour LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings
•Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover
•Place a plastic sheet under to the vehicle to avoid dampness capillary action and it will also form a moisture barrier.
•Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.
•Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the DampRid is still operational
Encapsulation Storage System:
A perfect solution for those enthusiasts faced with the dilemma of long-term storage of any car or truck. The unique (and patented) Car Capsule virtually "seals" the vehicle in its own purified environment. A continuous airflow keeps the car dry and prevents corrosion and mildew. It also eliminates that "musty" door that is so common with stored vehicles. The air is filtered, and is circulated by a highly efficient fan that costs just a little over a dollar per month to operate and is warranted for 5 years, it features a laminated fabric base-mat, double polished 8-mil PVC shroud and heavy-duty nylon zipper closure. The material is warranted for two years. It's easy to use, and shows-off your pride and joy while protecting it, available in a variety of sizes from 14' to 20' in length
JonM</HTML>
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
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Re: Vehicle storage (Long) September 19, 2005 01:04PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
<HTML>Encapsulation Storage System:
I am not sure a perfect solution for all cars. I recall reading several articles by museum curators who are concerned about the long term effect of of off gasses from the plastic (yellowing and absorbtion of the gases into the leather vinyl etc.
When working with classic or rare vehicles I take my cue from museum conservators since they have experience doing this for a long time.</HTML>
I am not sure a perfect solution for all cars. I recall reading several articles by museum curators who are concerned about the long term effect of of off gasses from the plastic (yellowing and absorbtion of the gases into the leather vinyl etc.
When working with classic or rare vehicles I take my cue from museum conservators since they have experience doing this for a long time.</HTML>
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Re: Vehicle storage (Long) September 19, 2005 01:11PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>That is a real concern.
Also, for "long term" storage, get the vehicle up off the concrete, even putting a sheet of plastic below the blocks or stands to keep humidity from reaching the body.
Over a period of time in storage, if humidty is present and the like corrossion of many parts become a real concern.
Years ago some studies conducted indicated that a vehicle has less corrossive damage if allowed to set on a dry dirt floor than a concrete floor.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
Also, for "long term" storage, get the vehicle up off the concrete, even putting a sheet of plastic below the blocks or stands to keep humidity from reaching the body.
Over a period of time in storage, if humidty is present and the like corrossion of many parts become a real concern.
Years ago some studies conducted indicated that a vehicle has less corrossive damage if allowed to set on a dry dirt floor than a concrete floor.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
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