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Basics
Posted by Mark Drew
<HTML>I just bought a new, medium blue 2006 Honda Civic, and I'm wondering how long to wait for its first application of wax. Also, given that the surface is pristine, should I use a polisher/glaze/sealer first, then a wax, or should I wash and then apply a coat of a good carnauba? I was planning on using Mother's classic California Gold products, but if you have any other recommendations, please advise. As for washing, what should I use, a syntehtic or chenille mitt, or a sea sponge? Two buckets? Grit guard? And what about for drying? I've read that microfiber towls are both good and bad. Should I use a synthetic chamois, like the Absorber? Thanks in advance for your help.</HTML>
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Re: Basics August 07, 2006 12:22AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,182 |
New car paints have a short cure time. The owner's manual may specify it. Check the date of manufacture listed on the door jamb. If the car was shipped from overseas, that alone tells you the paint had time to cure and is ready for wax.
If the surface has bonded contaminants, clay it. Then use a one-step product or a mild polish followed by a pure wax. Almost any finish can benefit from the cleaning action of a mild polish or one-step wax.
It is said that sponges can trap dirt and drag it against the paint. For that reason, I'd wash with a mitt or a terry towel. You may wish to forget the buckets and use the pressure wand at a do-it-yourself car wash as driveway washing is ecologically harmful. You can dilute your soap and put it into a spray bottle so you can spritz the car with it as you wash. Don't even think about using the brush provided by the DIY car wash. The soap they provide is also harsh and will strip wax.
Dry with a big top quality terry towel. Even better-use the two towel system, using a fresh towel after the other one gets wet. I've never used a micro drying towel. The absorber may be the kind of thing that could trap and grind dirt against the finish so check it out first ( a backpacker on an Appalachian Trail forum recommended something like the Absorber for use as a bacpack towel and for wringing out wet clothes so I guess there's some use for it.
Doug Delmont
" Common sense isn't. "
If the surface has bonded contaminants, clay it. Then use a one-step product or a mild polish followed by a pure wax. Almost any finish can benefit from the cleaning action of a mild polish or one-step wax.
It is said that sponges can trap dirt and drag it against the paint. For that reason, I'd wash with a mitt or a terry towel. You may wish to forget the buckets and use the pressure wand at a do-it-yourself car wash as driveway washing is ecologically harmful. You can dilute your soap and put it into a spray bottle so you can spritz the car with it as you wash. Don't even think about using the brush provided by the DIY car wash. The soap they provide is also harsh and will strip wax.
Dry with a big top quality terry towel. Even better-use the two towel system, using a fresh towel after the other one gets wet. I've never used a micro drying towel. The absorber may be the kind of thing that could trap and grind dirt against the finish so check it out first ( a backpacker on an Appalachian Trail forum recommended something like the Absorber for use as a bacpack towel and for wringing out wet clothes so I guess there's some use for it.
Doug Delmont
" Common sense isn't. "
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Re: Basics August 07, 2006 08:34PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 146 |
What doug said is TRUE to a point if your serious about you vehicle please contact, handwashing is an art believe it or not: newagain@ec.rr.comkramwerd wrote:
> <HTML>I just bought a new, medium blue 2006 Honda Civic, and
> I'm wondering how long to wait for its first application of
> wax. Also, given that the surface is pristine, should I use a
> polisher/glaze/sealer first, then a wax, or should I wash and
> then apply a coat of a good carnauba? I was planning on using
> Mother's classic California Gold products, but if you have any
> other recommendations, please advise. As for washing, what
> should I use, a syntehtic or chenille mitt, or a sea sponge?
> Two buckets? Grit guard? And what about for drying? I've read
> that microfiber towls are both good and bad. Should I use a
> synthetic chamois, like the Absorber? Thanks in advance for
> your help.</HTML>
WE DON'T USE THE "F-WORD" YA KNOW "FREE" A M.O.B BUSINESS
> <HTML>I just bought a new, medium blue 2006 Honda Civic, and
> I'm wondering how long to wait for its first application of
> wax. Also, given that the surface is pristine, should I use a
> polisher/glaze/sealer first, then a wax, or should I wash and
> then apply a coat of a good carnauba? I was planning on using
> Mother's classic California Gold products, but if you have any
> other recommendations, please advise. As for washing, what
> should I use, a syntehtic or chenille mitt, or a sea sponge?
> Two buckets? Grit guard? And what about for drying? I've read
> that microfiber towls are both good and bad. Should I use a
> synthetic chamois, like the Absorber? Thanks in advance for
> your help.</HTML>
WE DON'T USE THE "F-WORD" YA KNOW "FREE" A M.O.B BUSINESS
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Re: Basics August 08, 2006 09:36PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
A new car should not be waxed until 21 days after the date of manufacture. You can usually find the manufacture date on the id plate.
As far as a new car, you might want to clay it to remove surface contamination and then wax or seal it. Sealants are better than waxes in terms of durability, if you can purchase a sealant at a reasonable price.
We sell one of the best PAINT SEALANTS on the market for $22.95 gallon
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
buda@detailplus.com
www.detailplus.com
buda
As far as a new car, you might want to clay it to remove surface contamination and then wax or seal it. Sealants are better than waxes in terms of durability, if you can purchase a sealant at a reasonable price.
We sell one of the best PAINT SEALANTS on the market for $22.95 gallon
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
buda@detailplus.com
www.detailplus.com
buda
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Re: Basics August 08, 2006 09:42PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
MACHINE WASHING
If you use a professional soft cloth automatic carwash you can be assured of a quality wash that will not damage the paint our your car.
The last two vehicles I have owned were black, Expedition and Chrysler 300, they are both were/are washed everyday and they show no more surface marks than you would incur from a hand washing.
And, if you keep them waxes/sealed regularly there will be no problem.
Soft cloth conveyorized automatic car washes work very hard to have the best and safety equipment and mild chemicals to insure that the car's finish is protected.
I am both in the detail business and the car wash business and would not hesitate to have any of our detail customers take their cars thru a professional soft cloth car wash.
Where are you located? I will recommend a good car wash in your area.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
If you use a professional soft cloth automatic carwash you can be assured of a quality wash that will not damage the paint our your car.
The last two vehicles I have owned were black, Expedition and Chrysler 300, they are both were/are washed everyday and they show no more surface marks than you would incur from a hand washing.
And, if you keep them waxes/sealed regularly there will be no problem.
Soft cloth conveyorized automatic car washes work very hard to have the best and safety equipment and mild chemicals to insure that the car's finish is protected.
I am both in the detail business and the car wash business and would not hesitate to have any of our detail customers take their cars thru a professional soft cloth car wash.
Where are you located? I will recommend a good car wash in your area.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
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