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Cloth Seats
Posted by John Marzano
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Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 04:10PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 8 |
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 04:45PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>Have been going back and forth all day with Mazda Corp regarding concerns with some of their seats, same sort of problem.
We had a similar concern with some Hyundia and Kia seats last year, and now Ford and GM, on less expensive models, Liberty Jeeps, etc.
It is partially due to the material they used to cover the foam, and the "process" that dealers detailers, auction clean-up's and private detailers are using to attempt to clean the fabric.
One thing is the "blue jean" staining of these inexpensive fabrics, to this point we have not found any "safe" way to get that out.
Another thing with this kind of fabric is "pilling", the balling up of the fabric threads.
Found a simple way to remove them, go to Walgreens, etc and get a "sweater shaver", about $8 to $10, uses AA batteries and you can "mow or shave" off the pilling.
Once we complete the testing of the cleaning process for Ford and Mazda, we will be releasing it on our website.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
We had a similar concern with some Hyundia and Kia seats last year, and now Ford and GM, on less expensive models, Liberty Jeeps, etc.
It is partially due to the material they used to cover the foam, and the "process" that dealers detailers, auction clean-up's and private detailers are using to attempt to clean the fabric.
One thing is the "blue jean" staining of these inexpensive fabrics, to this point we have not found any "safe" way to get that out.
Another thing with this kind of fabric is "pilling", the balling up of the fabric threads.
Found a simple way to remove them, go to Walgreens, etc and get a "sweater shaver", about $8 to $10, uses AA batteries and you can "mow or shave" off the pilling.
Once we complete the testing of the cleaning process for Ford and Mazda, we will be releasing it on our website.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 05:02PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 9 |
<HTML>easier way to get rid of pilling is just by using a simple Bic Razor. Get ones that have no moisturizers etc on them(mach 3 have that stuff), just the plan basic face razor. Pretty much just "shave" the areas needed, genty jsut like you would ur face. Cheaper way of doing things, and in my opinion, works alot better then a sweater shaver.
Brandon</HTML>
Some Say I Have Talent
Brandon</HTML>
Some Say I Have Talent
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 05:14PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 05:14PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 05:40PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 9 |
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 05:58PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 73 |
<HTML>i have never seen blue jean stain on cloth but i have had problems with it on some kia sedonas with leather,it does not come out but kia will replace them most of the time.john please decribe your cleaning process for cloth seats,for example are you getting stains that are commimg back after your done, are you useing a carpet extractor and a apc or foam cleaner.</HTML>
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 06:10PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>We have some covers from late 2004/early2005, Protege, M3's, cloth that Mazda sent us, some of the same time frame Focus, that Ford sent down, and each batch had at least one cover that was permenantly stained by blue jean material.
What we do not know, since these came out of rental and off lease vehicles, is if they may have been cleaned with some caustic all purpose, or worse, but auctions and rental companies are not the brightest bulbs in the box when it comes to cleaning, "engine degreaser".
If so, that might explain part of the blue staining, as many times they leave the cleaner residue in the fabric or soak the seats so much that the cleaner absorbs into the foam under the fabric.
Take a little humidity, a new jacket or jeans, an hour or so in the seat, and you can get the conditon.
The Kia leather, yeah, their tech people and I were talking about this back in April when I was at Corp in Irvine.
Told them, change your material supplier, cause that's the base of the problem.
They really didn't want to hear that, but agreed I was correct.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
What we do not know, since these came out of rental and off lease vehicles, is if they may have been cleaned with some caustic all purpose, or worse, but auctions and rental companies are not the brightest bulbs in the box when it comes to cleaning, "engine degreaser".
If so, that might explain part of the blue staining, as many times they leave the cleaner residue in the fabric or soak the seats so much that the cleaner absorbs into the foam under the fabric.
Take a little humidity, a new jacket or jeans, an hour or so in the seat, and you can get the conditon.
The Kia leather, yeah, their tech people and I were talking about this back in April when I was at Corp in Irvine.
Told them, change your material supplier, cause that's the base of the problem.
They really didn't want to hear that, but agreed I was correct.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 08:41PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 866 |
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Re: Cloth Seats August 15, 2005 08:49PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 8 |
<HTML>Dave, to answer your question,
I have not been using a carpet extractor, just shampoo, water and a shop vac. Afterwards, i have the shark steam cleaner, go over them and wipe them clean. I was working on a Saturn the other day and there were deep stains in the seats, i tryed Resolve and wiped them with a terry towel...Nothing...tryed a heavy mixture of oxy clean...nothing..spots still poped up when they dryed...I have two interior details in one day so i may just rent an extractor...kind of expensive compared to what i charge but its better than working harder and not being able to get the stains out while lookin like an @!#$.
I havent seen the blue jean stains yet, thank god. I wish people took care of their cars instead of letting them get to the point of no return then calling me.
I had a guy email me today, said he left tree sap on his hood for a YEAR and was wondering if i could get it out...</HTML>
I have not been using a carpet extractor, just shampoo, water and a shop vac. Afterwards, i have the shark steam cleaner, go over them and wipe them clean. I was working on a Saturn the other day and there were deep stains in the seats, i tryed Resolve and wiped them with a terry towel...Nothing...tryed a heavy mixture of oxy clean...nothing..spots still poped up when they dryed...I have two interior details in one day so i may just rent an extractor...kind of expensive compared to what i charge but its better than working harder and not being able to get the stains out while lookin like an @!#$.
I havent seen the blue jean stains yet, thank god. I wish people took care of their cars instead of letting them get to the point of no return then calling me.
I had a guy email me today, said he left tree sap on his hood for a YEAR and was wondering if i could get it out...</HTML>
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Re: Cloth Seats August 16, 2005 12:13AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 59 |
<HTML>Here are a few tips to consider:
If you have a hot-water extractor (shampooer), use it only as a final flush-rinse. No chemicals! And remember to keep the interior as dry as possible. If it gets too damp, use a turbo dryer for quick-fix drying.
First, pre-spray the fabric with an upholstery cleaner. Some detailers like the way simple green cleans and smells, but it has no defoamer and will load the extractor with suds. I suggest a professional upholstery spray. Allow dwell-time for the cleaner to work its magic.
You may also wrap a microfiber towel around a hand brush and gently wipe the microfiber-backed brush across the fabric in a cross-hatch fashion. No real scrubbing because you may damage the surface nap. Be gentle. That will separate the fiber and allow the cleaner to emulsify the soil (usually body oils and food protein). You'll see the surface film come off on the towel, so move the toweling around to a clean side every so often. The rest will come out in the rinse.
Once the cleaning is done, use the hot-water extractor to remove all the nasty residue. It will probably suck up dirt and soap reidue from the last few times the upholstery was cleaned by others... who failed to rinse the dirt and shampoo out after cleaning. A wet-dry vac simply can not provide the needed flush-rinse. That feature should be noted to your customer, explaining that you flush-rinse all the dirt and residue, leaving a truly clean fabric. You can even save the stuff in the recovery tank for show-and-tell when the customer picks up the vehicle.
Another use for the ozone machine (if you have one) is to sanitize the air ducts. They harbor mold, mildew and other allergens and biomicrobes that cause respiratory distress in many. Use the optional step as an extra-service...and distinguish yourself from others who fail to offer the latest technology. It works great for moms who car-pool loads of sniffling kids. Takes only a few minutes with the air conditioning set at max cold so the air recirculates inside the cabin.
One caution: Do not get the interior very wet. Instead, only damp. If you soak an interior, you'll probably pull dirty stufff from deep in the foam padding, and that will likely result in drying with ghost spots and dirty film wicking up from behind the fabric.
If you do not have a carpet extractor, simply resort to the old fashioned way of spray and wipe with a brush-backed cloth picking up the surface dirt and grime. In most cases, too much water is your enemy, so don't douse the fabric, with hopes of wet-vacuuming it dry... and letting it sit.
It's a good idea to own a carpet extractor. After all, you're a cleaning specialist!
Another alternative process uses dry cleaning solution that chemically removes dirty residues. Some even comes in a powder that sits and absorbs dirt... and vacuums up afterwards. They are quick-dry formulas that require very uniform cleaning strokes...or they result will be a blotchy finish. I personally dislike using that stuff... but some guys love it. Whatever works best for you.
The final touch is ridding the car from odor. Ozone works best but enzyme sprays are easy, inexpensive and work just fine on what the spray can make contact with...which does not include interior air ducts. It all depends on what you want to offer... and distinguish yourself by. Anyway, the retail product Fabreze works very well...and profesional grade products also provide super results. The bottom line: the finished product must look good...and smell great! Anything less will disappoint your clients.
Final inspection will reveal any last minute detailing on the non-upholstery surfaces. Dilute the dressing so you provide a soft non-tacky sheen. Don't forget the seatbelts.
Hope this helps.
-Steve</HTML>
If you have a hot-water extractor (shampooer), use it only as a final flush-rinse. No chemicals! And remember to keep the interior as dry as possible. If it gets too damp, use a turbo dryer for quick-fix drying.
First, pre-spray the fabric with an upholstery cleaner. Some detailers like the way simple green cleans and smells, but it has no defoamer and will load the extractor with suds. I suggest a professional upholstery spray. Allow dwell-time for the cleaner to work its magic.
You may also wrap a microfiber towel around a hand brush and gently wipe the microfiber-backed brush across the fabric in a cross-hatch fashion. No real scrubbing because you may damage the surface nap. Be gentle. That will separate the fiber and allow the cleaner to emulsify the soil (usually body oils and food protein). You'll see the surface film come off on the towel, so move the toweling around to a clean side every so often. The rest will come out in the rinse.
Once the cleaning is done, use the hot-water extractor to remove all the nasty residue. It will probably suck up dirt and soap reidue from the last few times the upholstery was cleaned by others... who failed to rinse the dirt and shampoo out after cleaning. A wet-dry vac simply can not provide the needed flush-rinse. That feature should be noted to your customer, explaining that you flush-rinse all the dirt and residue, leaving a truly clean fabric. You can even save the stuff in the recovery tank for show-and-tell when the customer picks up the vehicle.
Another use for the ozone machine (if you have one) is to sanitize the air ducts. They harbor mold, mildew and other allergens and biomicrobes that cause respiratory distress in many. Use the optional step as an extra-service...and distinguish yourself from others who fail to offer the latest technology. It works great for moms who car-pool loads of sniffling kids. Takes only a few minutes with the air conditioning set at max cold so the air recirculates inside the cabin.
One caution: Do not get the interior very wet. Instead, only damp. If you soak an interior, you'll probably pull dirty stufff from deep in the foam padding, and that will likely result in drying with ghost spots and dirty film wicking up from behind the fabric.
If you do not have a carpet extractor, simply resort to the old fashioned way of spray and wipe with a brush-backed cloth picking up the surface dirt and grime. In most cases, too much water is your enemy, so don't douse the fabric, with hopes of wet-vacuuming it dry... and letting it sit.
It's a good idea to own a carpet extractor. After all, you're a cleaning specialist!
Another alternative process uses dry cleaning solution that chemically removes dirty residues. Some even comes in a powder that sits and absorbs dirt... and vacuums up afterwards. They are quick-dry formulas that require very uniform cleaning strokes...or they result will be a blotchy finish. I personally dislike using that stuff... but some guys love it. Whatever works best for you.
The final touch is ridding the car from odor. Ozone works best but enzyme sprays are easy, inexpensive and work just fine on what the spray can make contact with...which does not include interior air ducts. It all depends on what you want to offer... and distinguish yourself by. Anyway, the retail product Fabreze works very well...and profesional grade products also provide super results. The bottom line: the finished product must look good...and smell great! Anything less will disappoint your clients.
Final inspection will reveal any last minute detailing on the non-upholstery surfaces. Dilute the dressing so you provide a soft non-tacky sheen. Don't forget the seatbelts.
Hope this helps.
-Steve</HTML>
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Re: Cloth Seats August 16, 2005 01:10AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 866 |
<HTML>Wonderful advice.
If the first go around dosnt work , give it a second tryor let the cleaning product dwella little longer.
We have a mytee 1007 extractor. It was the largest one (at the time) that I could run off our Honda generator.
We run only DI water and a shot of AIs odor terminator through tthe machine.
We save our 16 oz water bottles and fill them with what we pulled up from the fibers to show the client.</HTML>
-----------------------------------------------------
Plays in the rain --- www.SuperiorShineDetailing.com
If the first go around dosnt work , give it a second tryor let the cleaning product dwella little longer.
We have a mytee 1007 extractor. It was the largest one (at the time) that I could run off our Honda generator.
We run only DI water and a shot of AIs odor terminator through tthe machine.
We save our 16 oz water bottles and fill them with what we pulled up from the fibers to show the client.</HTML>
-----------------------------------------------------
Plays in the rain --- www.SuperiorShineDetailing.com
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Re: Cloth Seats August 16, 2005 06:10AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 64 |
<HTML>Hi
I agree with the other posts, in the process of cleaning your upholstry seats,
Vacuum good first
use as little water as possible, allthough sometimes, u have to use more, just because of that the spots are not comming out, and u need to spray with something, wheter it be prespotter or other chem, whatever u use, they help make seats more wet. so keep that in mind
We also use the cyclomachine with two soft bristle brushes to help add friction and cleaning power to what we are trying to clean.
that has prooven our best fight to rid spots. (hurray for cyclo)
The extractor we use this one [www.cleanfreak.com]
Using extractor at the end u need to be careful there to in the ammount of water used, and if possible always run it slowly and for a good ammount of time after with only sucktion, to get as much water out as possible before, then maybe helping to dry seats with a small heater, to then see if any spots may reapear, so you can fix them before delivering vehicle.
Here in spain, we do see a lot of very dirty seats, and because of the area (costa blanca) very dry and hot. a lot of sweat mixes with all the dust we have in the air at all times, (((I mean we have a LOT of dust in the air, wash a car today, and this afternoon it is covered in dust,,no joke)))which then mixes to a nice guuu in seats.
now this is a problem here, but we have come to terms with it and we do get most seats of cloth very good, but now and again there are some bad ones, that just never want to come as clean as we would like.
RoB</HTML>
I agree with the other posts, in the process of cleaning your upholstry seats,
Vacuum good first
use as little water as possible, allthough sometimes, u have to use more, just because of that the spots are not comming out, and u need to spray with something, wheter it be prespotter or other chem, whatever u use, they help make seats more wet. so keep that in mind
We also use the cyclomachine with two soft bristle brushes to help add friction and cleaning power to what we are trying to clean.
that has prooven our best fight to rid spots. (hurray for cyclo)
The extractor we use this one [www.cleanfreak.com]
Using extractor at the end u need to be careful there to in the ammount of water used, and if possible always run it slowly and for a good ammount of time after with only sucktion, to get as much water out as possible before, then maybe helping to dry seats with a small heater, to then see if any spots may reapear, so you can fix them before delivering vehicle.
Here in spain, we do see a lot of very dirty seats, and because of the area (costa blanca) very dry and hot. a lot of sweat mixes with all the dust we have in the air at all times, (((I mean we have a LOT of dust in the air, wash a car today, and this afternoon it is covered in dust,,no joke)))which then mixes to a nice guuu in seats.
now this is a problem here, but we have come to terms with it and we do get most seats of cloth very good, but now and again there are some bad ones, that just never want to come as clean as we would like.
RoB</HTML>
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Re: Cloth Seats August 16, 2005 12:28PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 59 |
<HTML>One caution regarding motorized shampoo brushes: Fabric is composed of fibers (synthetic or natural) that are woven in a cross-hatch fashion on a loom matrix. Rotary brushes move in one-direction circles. The Cyclo differs in that it uses two counter-rotating jitterbugs that also rotate. Either way, the fiber is only brushed in a single direction. Soft manual scrubbing in a cross-hatch discipline reaches all sides of a fiber. Wax-on... wax-off, grasshopper.
I agree that an automated tool is a much quicker and easier method but suggest that manual manipulation will distribute chemical into the fibers more uniformly. Rotary scrubbers were originally designed for cleaning unwoven fibers that have many little filaments such as carpeting where the direction of the brush will uniformly comb the carpet-fiber shaft as it cleans.
Having said all that, I find that using BOTH methodologies works just fine. The mechanical scrubber offers uniformity and speed...while the manual cross-hatching is more complete.
Motorized scrubbers, if used with too much force or duration, may risk damage to natural fibers simply because of the friction generated. Consequently, do not bear down on rotary scrubbers for greater penetration. Instead, try to use only the brush tips.
-Steve</HTML>
I agree that an automated tool is a much quicker and easier method but suggest that manual manipulation will distribute chemical into the fibers more uniformly. Rotary scrubbers were originally designed for cleaning unwoven fibers that have many little filaments such as carpeting where the direction of the brush will uniformly comb the carpet-fiber shaft as it cleans.
Having said all that, I find that using BOTH methodologies works just fine. The mechanical scrubber offers uniformity and speed...while the manual cross-hatching is more complete.
Motorized scrubbers, if used with too much force or duration, may risk damage to natural fibers simply because of the friction generated. Consequently, do not bear down on rotary scrubbers for greater penetration. Instead, try to use only the brush tips.
-Steve</HTML>
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Re: Cloth Seats August 16, 2005 12:34PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 8 |
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