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How much
Posted by Dennis Guffey
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How much November 18, 2004 03:08AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1 |
I am thinking about purchasing a 69 OTS XKE 4.2. This is a car to be restored to a good looking drivable car. It was parked in 1983. The owner had just hit a bobcat and damaged the left front. He started the repairs but just did not finish.
The car has been in a barn ever since. Owner stated the miles are accurate at 40,000. All bumpers and lighting fixtures are off the car but owner states they are all there. Tires are all rotted and Tach is borken. Interior appears to be good but I am worried about the leather cracking.
How much should I pay and what should I budget to get the car running and painted?
The car has been in a barn ever since. Owner stated the miles are accurate at 40,000. All bumpers and lighting fixtures are off the car but owner states they are all there. Tires are all rotted and Tach is borken. Interior appears to be good but I am worried about the leather cracking.
How much should I pay and what should I budget to get the car running and painted?
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Re: How much November 27, 2004 04:43AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3 |
Funny, I got a 1967 Jaguar E type 2+2 for 5,000... I should have talked him down to 3,000... My car was stored since 1990. Had problems with the fluid clutch so he let it sit for 10 years instead of fixing the bloody thing. Leading to ALL SORTS of problems. The 69 OTS by far, is a more desirable car. That smith tachometer may be fixable i know id hate to purchase one. Anywho here are some things i WISH i would have looked at before i purchased my money pit.
- Make sure the carbuerators all match, Probably three SU HD8's. 1 of my Su's (even though still an hd8) was off of a diffrent car thus the needle was completely wrong leading to all sorts of fun times.
- Check if the oil lines that lead to the camshafts. Those love to rott out.
- Is the rear suspensioin sagging? you'll probably need to spend oodels of money on new bushings.
- Be sure to check the boot floor for rust or collision repair.
- See if he has an aftermarket fuelpump. Every E type i've experienced seems the original fuel pump has burnt out and a sloppy aftermarket job is put in the car somewhere.
- Check the a strange dampness on the foor, You see the E type's have a solid fluid line that runs under the dashboard. If it rotts out you'll have one hell of a time fixing it.
- The leather is the least of your worries, IF the your going to have a problem my guess is it will be with the rear seat being as the last 2 etypes i've owned the rear seat's have shown fierce cracking while the front seat and door skins are in concours condition.
- Look at the front suspension pieces for anything horribly bent, Those parts up there are small and a few to many potholes in spirited E type rides on old country roads has lead to many costly repair bills.
- Its been in a barn aye??? the last etype i bought was in a barn..... Big mistake. Remove the floor pannel in the rear of the vehicle and near the spare tire you'll see the gastank. Right near the gastank you'll find the wires to the turnsignals... On this E type i got from a barn the mice chewed through those wires so on my way home from buying it i smelled and interesting burning smell... Luckily i stoped that problem before anything severe happend.
- Look underneath the battery tray for heavy rust.
- See if the electric fan in the car still works, These fail alot and all sorts of makeshift fixes have been done.
If all that checks out your e-type should be fine. If the car ran when he parked it, it wouldnt take to much to fire it again. Id give him between 5,000 and 7,000 for the car depending. So far i've spent 8,000 on my worst e type... It ran at 2,000$ ago but in order for it to be safe it probably wont be on the road till 10,000 in the hole. If you just want the car to run like something you'll putz around in (providing there are no serious problems with the carbuerators) the car should fire with some fresh gas and probably some starting fluid. The car has been sitting so there will be no oil in the top of the engin where the camshafts are so be sure to take note of that. Also besure to pull all the plugs and put a table spoon of oil in each cylinder to add compression and protection upon first start up. Be sure those oil lines on the back of the camshafts are still viable or you'll be looking at costly repairs.
- Id set aside a good 3,000$ to get the car running well (this is very minimalistic it really all depends on how mechanicly inclined you are, truthfully you can probably get it running for 300$ but it wouldn't be pretty) and secondly id do the body work yourself (strip it down, lead fill whatever, primer it, block it down, reprimer it) then have a Mako paint shop do a standared 800 white paintjob to it.
- Make sure the carbuerators all match, Probably three SU HD8's. 1 of my Su's (even though still an hd8) was off of a diffrent car thus the needle was completely wrong leading to all sorts of fun times.
- Check if the oil lines that lead to the camshafts. Those love to rott out.
- Is the rear suspensioin sagging? you'll probably need to spend oodels of money on new bushings.
- Be sure to check the boot floor for rust or collision repair.
- See if he has an aftermarket fuelpump. Every E type i've experienced seems the original fuel pump has burnt out and a sloppy aftermarket job is put in the car somewhere.
- Check the a strange dampness on the foor, You see the E type's have a solid fluid line that runs under the dashboard. If it rotts out you'll have one hell of a time fixing it.
- The leather is the least of your worries, IF the your going to have a problem my guess is it will be with the rear seat being as the last 2 etypes i've owned the rear seat's have shown fierce cracking while the front seat and door skins are in concours condition.
- Look at the front suspension pieces for anything horribly bent, Those parts up there are small and a few to many potholes in spirited E type rides on old country roads has lead to many costly repair bills.
- Its been in a barn aye??? the last etype i bought was in a barn..... Big mistake. Remove the floor pannel in the rear of the vehicle and near the spare tire you'll see the gastank. Right near the gastank you'll find the wires to the turnsignals... On this E type i got from a barn the mice chewed through those wires so on my way home from buying it i smelled and interesting burning smell... Luckily i stoped that problem before anything severe happend.
- Look underneath the battery tray for heavy rust.
- See if the electric fan in the car still works, These fail alot and all sorts of makeshift fixes have been done.
If all that checks out your e-type should be fine. If the car ran when he parked it, it wouldnt take to much to fire it again. Id give him between 5,000 and 7,000 for the car depending. So far i've spent 8,000 on my worst e type... It ran at 2,000$ ago but in order for it to be safe it probably wont be on the road till 10,000 in the hole. If you just want the car to run like something you'll putz around in (providing there are no serious problems with the carbuerators) the car should fire with some fresh gas and probably some starting fluid. The car has been sitting so there will be no oil in the top of the engin where the camshafts are so be sure to take note of that. Also besure to pull all the plugs and put a table spoon of oil in each cylinder to add compression and protection upon first start up. Be sure those oil lines on the back of the camshafts are still viable or you'll be looking at costly repairs.
- Id set aside a good 3,000$ to get the car running well (this is very minimalistic it really all depends on how mechanicly inclined you are, truthfully you can probably get it running for 300$ but it wouldn't be pretty) and secondly id do the body work yourself (strip it down, lead fill whatever, primer it, block it down, reprimer it) then have a Mako paint shop do a standared 800 white paintjob to it.
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