your favorite polisher and compound?

Just wondering folks, what is your choice of polisher and compound? I was almost sold on the Cyclo, but it looks like im gonna go with a Dewalt or Makita and the Farecla system. Anyone else using this system?

Two days and 30 views later and no responses? I guess no one here polishes?

bobm-
Not trying to ignore you. The problem in my case is that I've never used the Cyclo, so I'm unable to compare it to other orbital ( or DA ) machines.

You can buy a PC 7336 at Lowes and I think they sell a Dewalt orbital sander/polisher too.

If you are comparing the Cyclo to Rotary buffers like the DW849, then you are comparing apples and oranges.
Doug

Oops, sorry Doug, I was referring to the d.a. versus the rotary. My bad, I should have clarified that point. I am sorry for the confusion.

bobm-
For serious and fast paint correction, the rotary is the best choice.

Unfortunately, the rotary must be used with great skill if one is to avoid swirl marks.

The DA is safer for the paint and won't leave swirls. AM has a special set of products intended to allow the Cyclo to do compound, polish and wax.

Doug

In order to be able to deal with any paint problem you will need the following tools, pads, chemicals:

TOOLS

Rotary Buffer
Dual Action Buffer
Orbital Waxer

PADS

Cutting Pads

Woven Wool
Wool/Synthetic Blend (50/50)
Foam

Polishing Pads

White Foam


CHEMICALS

800 Grit Heavy Compound
1200 Grit Medium Compound
2000 Grit Light Compound
Microfine Compound

Polish-Swirl Remover

Wax or Paint Sealant (as you prefer)

Whether you use air or electric, dual-head or single head makes no difference, the key is rotary; dual-action or orbital.

But you need to have these tools and supplies and chemicals to handle every job that could come your way. Otherwise you are like a mechanic who only has the tools and skills to tune up an engine and not rebuild it.

Just some well intentioned and educational thoughts to share with you.

bobm-
I read that Optimum or somebody makes a polish that does the job of compound ; that is, you use various levels of aggressive pads to make the polish cut. You may be able to find out more on that...

The DA polishers can be used to apply and buff wax, so I don't see why you would need a separate dedicated orbital waxer.

I think you will get the best results by compounding and polishing with a rotary, followed by a final polishing with a DA. Then wax. That takes time. Charge for it.

For clearcoat paints that are in good shape, I prefer polishing with a DA, followed by waxing with a DA or by hand. Products to use :
Zaino Z-AIO followed by Z-2 Pro or...
Griot's Machine Polish 3 followed by Z-2 Pro or...
Meguiar's Swirl Free Polish followed by Z-2 Pro.

For the fastest swirl free job, use a DA to apply one-step product that has a tiny amount of cleaner in it ( Z-AIO or AM's Banana Magic, for instance ).

For the fastest job, use a rotary to apply a one-step product. Then use towels to wipe away the residue or a buffer with a towel held under the pad.

The VALUGARD Cerious works that way.
Use a cutting pad for cutting, a polishing pad for polishing.
One product does both, it was introduced before any of the others.
However, it was developed for the autobody trade, fresh paints, so works a bit slower on older, cured paints.

What impressed me most with the Farecala system is the ease that it was used. The demonstration is attended first hand was on a two year old black Cadillac with multiple scuffs and scratches, The tech. was able to correct, polish and buff this car with a dewalt rotary machine and three different velcro attachable pads, all using the same compound. I was impressed to see it in action and when we rolled it outside in the bright sunlight, no swirls, anywhere. This car was not waxed at this time, just the Farecla polishing steps. I was just curious if anyone else out there had any similar experiences with polishes. It seems we have come a long way since the days of the Megs 20 different bottles of product. Im not trying to talk anyone into anything, just sharing an experience here.

the days of compounds are over

the original one product multiple step polish (correct me If I am wrong) was system one X3 cutting polish
the stuff is incredible

also use Xpert polishes from Australia who are part of the Xpert/S1 group in america

I dont recommend synthetic wool as it creates more heat than regular wool, increases risk of burns/delamination and can leave more swirls behind
also dont recommend using wool on hard ceramic clear coats and the heaviest cutting pads from any manufacturer
closed cell pre polymer pads never dry properly or wash well and create more heat (good and bad)
generally buff and shine hex logic open cell american foams are my favourites

xpert and optimum now have spray polishes, not creams. Xperts is still a one product only system

The FLEX XC3401 DA has amazing correction ability but I do agree with bud that rotary is best. its best because of the heat/friction it generates and its torque

Rotary
DA
Orbital (for applying sealants and coatings)

wax is a dinosaur. dont use it
polymers give the clarity of paint topped with seran wrap
glass and titanium is the best way for the best shine

Watch out with Farecla. in recent years their products contained fillers and you have to do silicone remover wipedowns and sometimes heat lamps to truly know if the paint has no swirls.

use water based products only for correcting

finish off your work with Aquartz or GLARE surface protectants
put them on every exterior surface, aquartz on leather even

these being a glass and the other a glass/titanium product, provide insane metal flake pop, bond with the paint properly and achieve superior clarity, colour richness, depth and reflection than polymers