Wax over a poly sealant for extra protection

I read other detailing forums to learn things from other detailers, but I find these sites dispense more bad information than good.When I started detailing professionally there were no forum sites like today. I feel that was good thing.I learned from experience and figured out what my customers wanted.

I am really confused by this desire to layer wax over a poly sealant with the thought
this will add some magical extra protection again'st salt for example.I have detailed
alot of boats that are in salt water so I have some experience in this area.

Now think about this logic. First you apply a polysealant like Blackfire Wet Diamond.Not the product I would use, but it makes more sense than wax.
Follow it up with two coats of wax for extra protection.

If you read my other post on waxing over a teflon sealant you would see the problem. First, how long will the coats of wax stay on the sealant in the first place.
Also, it will allow the dirt,salt, and grime to stick and harden on the paint finish during winter when you will not wash your car that often.

If these poly sealants are so great than why not just apply more coats of the sealant and avoid the wax? I realize that poly sealants lack the shine of wax, but in the winter
who cares.IMO, apply something that prevent dirt, grime, and salt adhering to the clear coat, not helping it.

Here is a thought you might consider. The part of the clear coat that has the shine
we all love is half the thickness of a human hair. Once it is worn away, no correction
professional can bring it back, and repainting is the only answer.Hopefully , what I have said in this post will consider using something other than wax for protection

TOWGT can tell you that wax offers NO protection at all from the sun, and the elements.

One thing to consider, that is the "fracture point" of the selected wax.
Synthetic waxes usually have a higher fracture point, IE, it's "melt point".
Carnuba's of a natural type, there are 4 grades, have fracture point from grade 4 of aprox 110F the first time it fractures, and this point drops after each fracture or heat exporsure, to a grade 1 which may go as high as 145F.
Top grade synthethics, such as used in the FRP industry for mold release may have a fracture point of in excess of 210F.

Another example is parifin waxes, which first fracture point is around 135F, but will quickly degrade to a 85F melt or fracture point.

IE, touch the surface with this on it and it will feel "sticky".

Just a little insight into waxes, not the complete story but something that may aid others in making a selection regarding the waxes they chose to use.
Grumpy

I may be wrong but I though that the reason one puts carnuba wax over a sealant is because of the better look that carnuba gives. The sealant gives the durability and the carnuba gives the look.

totally agree with you. its silly to put wax over anything else and IMO use wax period
It doesnt add anything. results come mostly from prep not a wax

dont use polymers anymore either

@ SVR73 How are you getting on with the Restructure products? Did you like what they offer?