Clean and prep

turbomangt

Clean and prep
September 18, 2003 03:10PM

Registered: 17 years ago
Posts: 333

<HTML>I was wondering if we could start a thread on what everyone uses as far as cleaning inbetween steps/ products. One example is how some products don't bond or respond well on top of each other. Lets say you have washed and clayed and washed clay residue. Now you are using a cleaner, compound or polish, do you guys wash inbwteeen each step? or do you use a spray wash (I dare say dry in wash?) each company has their own suggestions, AIO I have read that most sealants and waxes bond to it fine. How about the many other products out there? Bud, your swirl remover? does the surface need to be washed to remove oils in the polish, or is it ready to final coat? Thanks for sharing, Gary</HTML>

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Jim Hammill

Re: Clean and prep
September 19, 2003 01:40AM

Registered: 17 years ago
Posts: 751

<HTML>Good question Gary.

We currently use Malco products for all buffing so we dont clean in between steps as much. We also have different procedures depending on the vehicle. Ig it's going to auction then it gets what is needed to make it look pretty , so usually just a wash, clay, surface clarifier if needed , then buffed once with Malco's Rejuvenator.

If it's going on the lot then it gets washed, clayed, surface clarified, then washed again. Then it gets it's first buff with a compond if needed, gets wiped down ,then a second buff for swirl removal , then another wipe down, then waxed. Agin this is all done with Malco products. Trugrit for the heavier buffing, Liquid Micro for the swirls, and Flash Wax for the final coat. All wiping down is done with MF cloths.

As for the prep with Surface clarifier, we have been using CarBrites Surface Clarifier but recently changed to a Motorcraft product ( we are a Ford Dealer) . Its actuall a three step procedure, first wash with the Acid Neutralizer, then follow with the Alkaline Neutralizer, then rinse and then wash with Detail Wash.

Detail Wash is made by Motorcraft , runs about $37 dollars a gallon but is highly concentrated , one gallon of concentrate makes 128 gallons of wash soap. It is also ph neutral so wont attack any existing waxes etc , so we also trying this in our wash rack for customer vehicles.

I know today I got my own vehicle in to our bay to clay and surface clarify it ready to pur Buds sealant on it , then realized I had left the sealant at home , and it rained just as I was about 5 miles from home...just my luck !

Jim.</HTML>

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Bud Abraham

Re: Clean and prep
September 19, 2003 03:10AM

Registered: 17 years ago
Posts: 3,550

<HTML>The concept of washing between steps is a hold over from the days of laquer paint finishes when you had to buff each coat of laquer paint to get that deep gloss. To buff the laquer you had to use a heavy (600 grit) compound to get the job done.

To prevent that grit from scratching the car when you started to swirl remove and polish most detailers or painters washed the car to insure all of the grit was off the car.

With todays "sprayed shiny" finishes you do not have to use an aggressive compound so I personally believe that you do not have to use between steps. That is, unless you have used a heavy or even medium compound.

With the lights and micro fine compounds it is not necessary.

Regards
bud abraham</HTML>

buda

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ron dibling

Re: Clean and prep
September 21, 2003 12:26PM

Registered: 17 years ago
Posts: 102

<HTML>Gary, Great topic idea!! Like Bud says ,on todays clear coats it, in most cases, does not seem necessary to wash between steps/products with one exception that I have found...........Though I do not use glaze very often I have found that if I try to do so after cleaner and polish the glaze will be very hard to remove if I do not wash after the polish step. This seems to happen consistently so IF using a glaze I always wash after the polish step. Bud is ABSOLUTELY correct about washing after compouding on older paints. I was recently working on a 1962 TR6...original paint which was really oxidized. I used a very light compound because the paint was extremely thin from many years of cleaning. In the past, over 15 years ago, the owners brother had used a buffer and compound on the car and in a few areas (edges) had actually buffed into the primer. I was able to remove the oxidation with no further damage but then I made a fatal mistake and I should have known better since, unlike some on this forum, I was born long before clear coat smiling smiley

)). I applied swirl remover without washing the car and it stuck like glue. Not washing saved me 10 minutes but my time saving attempt actually cost me at least an extra hour and lots of sweat to remove the swirl remover. Lesson learned!!!!!! The car came out great and the owner was extremely happy ($50.00 tip...Best yet) Anyhow just my ideas and hopefully others will give input on this thread. Happy detailing to all!!</HTML>

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