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shampooing carpets

Posted by Phil Goode 
shampooing carpets
October 24, 2003 10:23PM
<HTML>I have a wholesale account and it is one of those buy here pay here lots. the cars sometimes get repo'd and when they do, they are trashed. THOSE are the ones I get to do. Yesterday however I had a mini van, really not all bad in big picture. The carpets had some spots, and there were many. I tired a few of the things I have learned here and wish to post the results and improve my cleaning skills and shorten the time. here's the deal; I pre-soaked, scrubbed, scrubbed, scrubbed.(to me, scrubbing is using a brush, as of yet, I have no machine for scrubbing carpets) after the scrubbing, I extracted. The water just kept coming up dirty. over and over. Finally, I had to move on. Today when I went back, the areas had wicked and looked almost as bad as they did yesterday..and they felt crunchy.

Today, I just foamed em and wiped. Clean. At least they looked clean.
I have read here about adaptors for d/a's and buffers that help scrub carpets. I know that without seeing y situation it is a hard question to answer but do these things really make a difference?</HTML>
Re: shampooing carpets
October 24, 2003 11:36PM
<HTML>Phil two thing happen your solution was too strong and you didn't use a neutralizer at final rinse of you didn't vacuum that good to remove all the dirt</HTML>
Re: shampooing carpets
October 25, 2003 01:39AM
<HTML>Bud sells a air powered shampoo tool. Takes alot of cfm's. I bought the attachment for the porta cable from top of the line. Works ok, not very stiff bristles. Plus, I am a little wary of using the pc and having water around it.</HTML>
Re: shampooing carpets
October 25, 2003 04:09AM
<HTML>The dirt in carpets is 85% dry and 15% oily dirt. The procedure used by professional carpet cleaners is this:

1. Vacuum very, very well to remove the dry dirt

2. Spot all the heavy stains and remove so not to spread them around when friction shampooing.

3. Pre Spray entire carpet area and let sit to allow chemical to emulsify the oily dirt

4. Friction shampoo by hand; rotary shampooer; or orbital.

5. Finally, extract with heated soil extractor

6. Vacuum up any residual moisture

7. Dry with interior blower; heater turned on your evaporation by sitting

Regards
Bud A</HTML>



buda
Re: shampooing carpets
October 25, 2003 11:56AM
<HTML>The dirt in carpets is 85% dry and 15% oily dirt. The procedure used by professional carpet cleaners is this:

1. Vacuum very, very well to remove the dry dirt

2. Spot all the heavy stains and remove so not to spread them around when friction shampooing.

3. Pre Spray entire carpet area and let sit to allow chemical to emulsify the oily dirt

4. Friction shampoo by hand; rotary shampooer; or orbital.

5. Finally, extract with heated soil extractor

6. Vacuum up any residual moisture

7. Dry with interior blower; heater turned on your evaporation by sitting

Regards
Bud A</HTML>



buda
Re: shampooing carpets
October 25, 2003 10:43PM
<HTML>phil

knowing the problem exists help. Some things to look for..
if you know the car travels frequently on dirt roads or similar environment.
check the jambs for presence of a fine powdery dust
( I do that when inspecting the car before detailing)
dust covered interior.
during vacuuming process-after you think you have the floor mats clean (if car has them) pull them out and beat them with the vacuum or stick of some sort and see what falls out. usually sand with me.
Then you know you need to spend extra time on vacuuming.

for my extractor I can get a nozzel of clear plastic so I can see what Im picking up. When extracting light colored carpets you may see dirt lines apear around edge of nozzel. spend extra time shampooing...last thing you want to hear with a van..hehehe

the faster the carpet dries the less chance of wicking and if it does you can get it before the customer sees it. wet vac after extracting maybe even use some towels to soak up what you can and vac again..I place a large fan (or 2) blowing in the car starting with driver area first. On low humidity days an hour and a half is good. high humidity days.....possibly all day.

Im not to clear about step 7 with buds method. possibly using the cars heater.....People do that sometimes. Some things to consider...I have heard mold and mildew can start to grow in as little as 2 to 4 hours in right conditions..(warm and damp) I havent ever had that problem. I would recomend using the ac cuz it will do some good to de-humidify and promote drying faster than heat. But in my personal prefrence I wouldnt want my car sitting at idle for that long so I wont do that to my customers car. but I have done that before. Another concern is the car may over heat....be careful with land rovers.

hope it helps
pmack</HTML>
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