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car lots
Posted by jovan baker
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car lots February 12, 2004 03:44AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 16 |
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Re: car lots February 12, 2004 03:47AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
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Re: car lots February 12, 2004 08:26AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 121 |
<HTML>jovan baker:
Are you dealing with used cars only? combination of new & used? what are their expectations?
First of all, if they are only used cars and they just want them to look/feel clean and polished, you need to get rid of that wool pad. The fibers in those wool pads along with abrasive products introduce more swirls marks into the paint finish. Why would you make more work for yourself than what you started with? All you are doing by running your oribital over all that is filling in swirl marks, which will be present after a few washings.
If the paint finish feels smooth by touch, fair gloss, and light to medium swirls you can go over the finish w/rotary buffer, polishing or finishing pad (your preference) and a good 1 step cleaner/wax, wipe down.
Or: Same as above except by hand or Orbital.
To do high quality work you need more time and different procedures and technique.
If it is a new vehicle, wash it, clay it (if needed), wax or paint sealant. NO ROTARY!</HTML>
The problems of yesterday have produced the blessings of today.
Lot-A-Details, In Seattle
Are you dealing with used cars only? combination of new & used? what are their expectations?
First of all, if they are only used cars and they just want them to look/feel clean and polished, you need to get rid of that wool pad. The fibers in those wool pads along with abrasive products introduce more swirls marks into the paint finish. Why would you make more work for yourself than what you started with? All you are doing by running your oribital over all that is filling in swirl marks, which will be present after a few washings.
If the paint finish feels smooth by touch, fair gloss, and light to medium swirls you can go over the finish w/rotary buffer, polishing or finishing pad (your preference) and a good 1 step cleaner/wax, wipe down.
Or: Same as above except by hand or Orbital.
To do high quality work you need more time and different procedures and technique.
If it is a new vehicle, wash it, clay it (if needed), wax or paint sealant. NO ROTARY!</HTML>
The problems of yesterday have produced the blessings of today.
Lot-A-Details, In Seattle
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Re: car lots February 14, 2004 02:52AM |
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Re: car lots February 14, 2004 04:01AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 16 |
<HTML>I would have to disagree about an orbital just filling swirl marks. I used a wool pad with some pro gold on a black truck of a friend of mines and then orbitoled it real good and to this day no swirl marks. The car lot i use is a wholesaler and buys some real junk! Wish i didnt even have to do them! but keeps me going. Ive tried using a foam pad instead but just doesnt make them happy. Also I have a friend who owns a detail shop and thats how he does all his retail work wool pad and orbitol with progold. Any feed back on this</HTML>
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Re: car lots February 15, 2004 12:34AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 121 |
<HTML>Orbital Buffers were designed for the application & removal of paint sealants and waxes, speed, less wear and tear on the user.
They do not produce enough heat to be as effective as a rotary buffer at eliminating light to medium swirl marks. To see how effective swirl elimination (not filling) is, wipe surface residue off with 50/50 blend alcohol/water, put under good lighting & check your work.
Using the appropriate foam pads, products and technique should be all you need. The cars you are describing sound like they need a lot of help, and with wool pads you risk taking more paint off than you want to. The only time I use a wool pad (50/50 blend for clearcoats) is after finessing to remove 1000 to 1500 grit wet-sanding marks or scratches, but I also follow that up with a swirl eliminator/polish, then protect with paint seal or wax.
I detailed cars from wholesale lots many years ago that were thrashed. The cars had big dents, paint surfaces scoured, clearcoat or single stage was peeling off, rust, paint discoloration, trim pieces hanging, bald tires, different thicknesses of paint, etc. I disliked doing those cars and used the same procedure you explained. If you are happy using wool pads on those beaters to get them clean go for it!, but you cannot get away with that on nicer finishes and the people who own them will let you know about it.
It can be a lot of work bringing back an old finish. Sometimes its fun to see if you can, but sooner or later you will want a change from wholesale beaters.
Like has been said here many times, "right pads, products and technique will help you achieve your goals".</HTML>
The problems of yesterday have produced the blessings of today.
Lot-A-Details, In Seattle
They do not produce enough heat to be as effective as a rotary buffer at eliminating light to medium swirl marks. To see how effective swirl elimination (not filling) is, wipe surface residue off with 50/50 blend alcohol/water, put under good lighting & check your work.
Using the appropriate foam pads, products and technique should be all you need. The cars you are describing sound like they need a lot of help, and with wool pads you risk taking more paint off than you want to. The only time I use a wool pad (50/50 blend for clearcoats) is after finessing to remove 1000 to 1500 grit wet-sanding marks or scratches, but I also follow that up with a swirl eliminator/polish, then protect with paint seal or wax.
I detailed cars from wholesale lots many years ago that were thrashed. The cars had big dents, paint surfaces scoured, clearcoat or single stage was peeling off, rust, paint discoloration, trim pieces hanging, bald tires, different thicknesses of paint, etc. I disliked doing those cars and used the same procedure you explained. If you are happy using wool pads on those beaters to get them clean go for it!, but you cannot get away with that on nicer finishes and the people who own them will let you know about it.
It can be a lot of work bringing back an old finish. Sometimes its fun to see if you can, but sooner or later you will want a change from wholesale beaters.
Like has been said here many times, "right pads, products and technique will help you achieve your goals".</HTML>
The problems of yesterday have produced the blessings of today.
Lot-A-Details, In Seattle
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Re: car lots February 15, 2004 06:13AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Only dealer you'd make a nice buck at would be high-end dealers and upscale brokerages. They pay top dlooar for their cars and they will pay top dillar for the best quality. Trust me, thats what it's like for me. The guys said I'm more expensive than the old detailer but do better work.
Used car dealers are always looking for the bottom dollar.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
Used car dealers are always looking for the bottom dollar.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: car lots February 15, 2004 05:29PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>With low pay car dealers/lots you want to do a ONE STEP. That is what these products were designed for in the firstplace. A procedure that allows the detailer to correct; polish and protect in one step.
You use a high speed rotary buffer with a foam pad and a good one step and you will handle the majority of your cars. If you have a black or dark colored car you could seal or wax it after the one step to give it a final look that these cars sometimes demand.
Sometimes you can apply the one step with an orbital and buff off with rotary and foam pad.
Check out our 2000 Grit ONE STEP. A dual action product. When used with a cutting pad (wool or foam) it is a light compound. When used with a foam pad it is a ONE STEP. Combines the best of our light compound and our best paint sealant, DIAMOND PLUS.
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
You use a high speed rotary buffer with a foam pad and a good one step and you will handle the majority of your cars. If you have a black or dark colored car you could seal or wax it after the one step to give it a final look that these cars sometimes demand.
Sometimes you can apply the one step with an orbital and buff off with rotary and foam pad.
Check out our 2000 Grit ONE STEP. A dual action product. When used with a cutting pad (wool or foam) it is a light compound. When used with a foam pad it is a ONE STEP. Combines the best of our light compound and our best paint sealant, DIAMOND PLUS.
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
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Re: car lots February 16, 2004 03:26PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 201 |
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