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cut and wax?
Posted by Solo Con
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cut and wax? May 05, 2004 06:06PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 151 |
<HTML>I got a call today from a auto paint shop asking if I cut and wax cars. He informed me he was looking for someone that can handle about 2-3 cars a week. His current person charges 400.00 a car. This will be new single stage paint on a car.
I did not talk to him as my wife had the phone. I am to get back to him today some time.
From the looks of it (price wise) I guess his meaning of "cut" is sanding? Can anyone help me out with this or how I should follow up with this?
New single stage paint job. He wants it "cut" and waxed. Thanks</HTML>
I did not talk to him as my wife had the phone. I am to get back to him today some time.
From the looks of it (price wise) I guess his meaning of "cut" is sanding? Can anyone help me out with this or how I should follow up with this?
New single stage paint job. He wants it "cut" and waxed. Thanks</HTML>
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Re: cut and wax? May 05, 2004 09:17PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
<HTML>Make no assumptions or even guess what the caller wants. Return the call and arrange to meet in person.
Your meeting should detail exactly what he wants done to these vehicles.
for example what cut is?..
If you feel you have the qualifications and can meet his objectives, confirm your meeting in writing, detailing the discussion, finally quote price and your terms of payment.
Since he is already paying $400.00 per vehicle there is no need to try to undercut this price structure rather try to increase and exceed the level of service he has been obtaining.</HTML>
Your meeting should detail exactly what he wants done to these vehicles.
for example what cut is?..
If you feel you have the qualifications and can meet his objectives, confirm your meeting in writing, detailing the discussion, finally quote price and your terms of payment.
Since he is already paying $400.00 per vehicle there is no need to try to undercut this price structure rather try to increase and exceed the level of service he has been obtaining.</HTML>
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Re: cut and wax? May 05, 2004 10:45PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>In the auto detailing industry, "cutting the paint" means to use a rotary polisher and a compound. Take concoursgarage's advice and follow up with the body shop's specific needs. Also, ask the guy if he means "glaze" instead of wax -- you can't wax freshly painted cars for at least 30 days.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: cut and wax? May 05, 2004 11:55PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 151 |
<HTML>After talking with the owner, you guys are right about using a rotary polisher. He stats he wants them waxed. The person doing it now charges 400.00 per car. Hes looking for something a little cheaper. I still dont understand why hes paying 400.00 for this service. Am I missing something here as I have never worked with fresh paint like this? Is there more to it? I have detailed but never charged 400.00 even for a complete detail.</HTML>
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 12:04AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Did he state that he will be wet-sanding the cars after they leave the spray booth or does he want you to do that as well? After a paint job, you need to wet-sand to remove orange peel, runs, and minor blemishes. After the wet-sanding, the paint looks very dull with no shine whatsoever. When I was in Vo-Tech for auto body/paint refinishing, we learned how to wet-sand and were also showed how to level the paint to eliminate "valleys." After the sanding and "cutting" the paint had an absolute "wet mirror shine" to it -- beautiful.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 12:12AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 151 |
<HTML>No, he did not state anything like that. He was in a rush (he was busy when I called back) and could not go into full detail. We are to talk on friday at his location. Is this something a new detailer should stay away from for alitle bit? I have used a buffer w/o problems and seem to be doing good with it. I know someone else that has 10+ years using buffers (someone who works with me at the detail shop) that would be more then happy to help if I needed it.</HTML>
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 12:21AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Unless you've had extensive training doing wet-sanding, I wouldn't pursue it until you get hands on training. If you know how to use the rotary and haven't had any problems with it, by all means go for it.
How long have you been using a rotary? I only burned through a paint once and that was at Vo-Tech using an air powered rotary, white wool pad, heavy cutting compound with the setting turned up all the way, whoops! Think I should've read the air guage. A That was my first time using a rotary and haven't burned paint since. I dislike air powered rotarys anyway. They would save my back if I could use them on boats.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
How long have you been using a rotary? I only burned through a paint once and that was at Vo-Tech using an air powered rotary, white wool pad, heavy cutting compound with the setting turned up all the way, whoops! Think I should've read the air guage. A That was my first time using a rotary and haven't burned paint since. I dislike air powered rotarys anyway. They would save my back if I could use them on boats.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 12:43AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
<HTML>This seems like a job for the more experienced detailer...and perhaps something you might want to decline, if you feel you do not have the confidence or skills that will meet and exceed that persons expectations. If this is an autobody facility that does custom painting ...you have one opportunity to showcase your work, and if you fail you will not get another chance.
What you are missing is that he he is paying $400.00 for the job
because
1, He can afford to
2, The present detailer is more than likely meeting his expectations.
3, He very well understands the value of what he is receiving.
4, He is being re-numerated very well for his autobody services
The questions you should begin to ask yourself is? How can I start charging $400.00 and what do I need to do to get this market share.</HTML>
What you are missing is that he he is paying $400.00 for the job
because
1, He can afford to
2, The present detailer is more than likely meeting his expectations.
3, He very well understands the value of what he is receiving.
4, He is being re-numerated very well for his autobody services
The questions you should begin to ask yourself is? How can I start charging $400.00 and what do I need to do to get this market share.</HTML>
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 01:22AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 151 |
<HTML>I have only been using a rotary for about 4 months. I use its just about everyday. I think I will have to decline due to the fact I have not dont much with single stage paint. This is something I would like to do but you are right, I don't want to give my company a bad name from the start. I will try to work harder and gain more knowledge before I tackle something like this. Its not worth the "fast cash" in my eyes. I would rather play it smart.
Thanks everyone for all the info on this.</HTML>
Thanks everyone for all the info on this.</HTML>
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 03:37AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>You never know, maybe you'll knock his socks off and hire you as the exclusive detailer. 4 months is plenty of time to know the ins & outs of buffing to a science. A single stage paint will require the same technique as clear coated cars.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 05:26AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 201 |
<HTML>Brian,
When I bought my first rotary in '95, I used it the first time on a family friend's car. It was an older caddy..pretty blue, but in horrendous condition. I had heard all the horror stories and began very cautiously. I used a mild compound with a wool pad. I kept the speed down and never allowed the pad to sit in one place...kept it moving in straight overlapping lines. Do not laugh at the following: I worked on the hood for about 10 hours total time with it. I applied and reapplied and kept looking at the paint. S-l-o-w-l-y, it became more clear. When I finally finished the guy said, "If you said you could make it look like that I would have called you a liar." It really was amazing. Looking back, I was overly cautious and for a first timer that's ok. I think with today's products that contain less abrasives, but still remove swirls and cut, the user can do a good job while doing it much quicker. However, I think many guys are afraid because everyone says, "Be VERY careful, you could burn the paint." Yes, you certainly can...I'm not saying you can't. However, like you said, you had the speed all the way up with a wool pad.
I can run out of gas if I drive far enough.
Solo-I'd tell him the facts:
You have used a rotary every day for 4 months.
You subscribe to online detail support and contribute regularly.
You are very interested in the job and would like to show him your skills with the rotary..let him decide if you are not qualified.
You are a professional and carry yourself that way (I'm sure you do).
Single stage paints? I actually prefer them. Anyone else? You can work them and level them for a totally level and pure shine. If you are doing the entire car, I'm sure for $400 you are taping off the trim everywhere...cover the wipers to avoid splatter from the compound/cutting agent.
Perhaps approach him Friday and ask him for a test panel.
I've sold detailing because I am reliable, not necessarily because I'm better than other detailers. Be someone that services him well. For $400 or a little less, exterior cutting and protecting could/should be good business for you.
Goodluck!
Robert Regan</HTML>
"Put your car in the Winner's Circle"
WC Detailing Products
Cyclo, MF Towels, Clay, and more!
visit: www.winnerscircledetailingproducts.com
When I bought my first rotary in '95, I used it the first time on a family friend's car. It was an older caddy..pretty blue, but in horrendous condition. I had heard all the horror stories and began very cautiously. I used a mild compound with a wool pad. I kept the speed down and never allowed the pad to sit in one place...kept it moving in straight overlapping lines. Do not laugh at the following: I worked on the hood for about 10 hours total time with it. I applied and reapplied and kept looking at the paint. S-l-o-w-l-y, it became more clear. When I finally finished the guy said, "If you said you could make it look like that I would have called you a liar." It really was amazing. Looking back, I was overly cautious and for a first timer that's ok. I think with today's products that contain less abrasives, but still remove swirls and cut, the user can do a good job while doing it much quicker. However, I think many guys are afraid because everyone says, "Be VERY careful, you could burn the paint." Yes, you certainly can...I'm not saying you can't. However, like you said, you had the speed all the way up with a wool pad.
I can run out of gas if I drive far enough.
Solo-I'd tell him the facts:
You have used a rotary every day for 4 months.
You subscribe to online detail support and contribute regularly.
You are very interested in the job and would like to show him your skills with the rotary..let him decide if you are not qualified.
You are a professional and carry yourself that way (I'm sure you do).
Single stage paints? I actually prefer them. Anyone else? You can work them and level them for a totally level and pure shine. If you are doing the entire car, I'm sure for $400 you are taping off the trim everywhere...cover the wipers to avoid splatter from the compound/cutting agent.
Perhaps approach him Friday and ask him for a test panel.
I've sold detailing because I am reliable, not necessarily because I'm better than other detailers. Be someone that services him well. For $400 or a little less, exterior cutting and protecting could/should be good business for you.
Goodluck!
Robert Regan</HTML>
"Put your car in the Winner's Circle"
WC Detailing Products
Cyclo, MF Towels, Clay, and more!
visit: www.winnerscircledetailingproducts.com
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Re: cut and wax? May 06, 2004 07:18AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 151 |
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Re: cut and wax? May 07, 2004 05:48AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 866 |
<HTML>Colorsaning is allot of work. I started colorsanding and buffing cars when I was 14 years old. and have done many since.
First the whole car needs to be rinsed or at least dusted off.
2nd-you need to knock down all the larger defects such as large partials, runs, and sags.
3rd- you sand the finish down with a wet/dry paper that can range anywhere from 800 grit to 2000 grit. Sometimes it is beneficial to sand with a heavier grit and go over the finish a second time with a finer grit. You need to take your time and correctly sand every square inch of the finish.
4th- now you compound the paint, you need to avoid burning through the paint and completely remove all the colorsanding marks. Being in the right light is important.
5th-now you polish the finish, check for areas you can't do with a buffer and need to do by hand.
6th- you now wash the vehicle. This could be up to 8-10 hours later. All the dust and compound needs to be removed from the vehicle.
7th- apply a glaze, not a wax or sealant.
It is allot of work, hard on the arms and back, very dirty and dusty.
$400 is a deal.</HTML>
-----------------------------------------------------
Plays in the rain --- www.SuperiorShineDetailing.com
First the whole car needs to be rinsed or at least dusted off.
2nd-you need to knock down all the larger defects such as large partials, runs, and sags.
3rd- you sand the finish down with a wet/dry paper that can range anywhere from 800 grit to 2000 grit. Sometimes it is beneficial to sand with a heavier grit and go over the finish a second time with a finer grit. You need to take your time and correctly sand every square inch of the finish.
4th- now you compound the paint, you need to avoid burning through the paint and completely remove all the colorsanding marks. Being in the right light is important.
5th-now you polish the finish, check for areas you can't do with a buffer and need to do by hand.
6th- you now wash the vehicle. This could be up to 8-10 hours later. All the dust and compound needs to be removed from the vehicle.
7th- apply a glaze, not a wax or sealant.
It is allot of work, hard on the arms and back, very dirty and dusty.
$400 is a deal.</HTML>
-----------------------------------------------------
Plays in the rain --- www.SuperiorShineDetailing.com
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Re: cut and wax? May 07, 2004 06:57AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 151 |
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Re: cut and wax? May 07, 2004 05:15PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
<HTML>check out this article i found detailing the color sanding
process, it was helpful to me.
[66.34.72.138]
-Juan Carlos</HTML>
process, it was helpful to me.
[66.34.72.138]
-Juan Carlos</HTML>
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