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Grumpies Article!
Posted by Eric Brandenburg
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Grumpies Article! July 01, 2004 09:46PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 243 |
<HTML>Hey Grump, I read your article Clear Coats vs Heat. I picked up quite a bit of info. It answered some questions that I had, concerning the heat build up,during the buffing procedures. Where do you get the best deal on the ETG-2 meter? The Dupont Paint Gang came by the body shop, as i told you in an earlier Email. They said that we needed to get one, so that we could keep our blending program honest. I'm going to get one for my own home shop use. Does the ETG-2 meters have some way to ck calibration frequently or does it have to be sent off for that. This is probably old news to all of the Pro Detailers on this forum. The excess heat generated by the buffing process, that is. The little heat gun that was shown works very,very well. I bought several for my operators to use when checking rotating equipment.They paid great dividens,as I see that they can, when checking periodically during the buffing operation. Grump, what is the low side of buffing temperatures? What I understand, or maybe don't understand, is that you do need a definate amount of heat for the chemicals to work,"Right"??. Do Most of, or all of the chemicals have the same workable temperature range. Say 90 degs too Kool,and 118 degs too Hot,as an example?................ Thanks in Advance Brandy!</HTML>
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Re: Grumpies Article! July 02, 2004 12:35AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 505 |
<HTML>Heat was actually needed for old lacquers, and products had some components in them that liked heat.
Not so with any modern chemistry compounds or polishes, for if you have done a search, for the SAE paper that is mentioned, (we can not publish it, copyrighted), the use of incorrect pad or buffing materials cause serious concerns.
Low side is any temp above freezing, although when we did a project with Hyundai years ago involving fasica's that had the shipping wax imbedded in them, the company leased 4 special Ingersall Rand cryogenic buffering units, where nitrogen gas was injected into the lambs wool pad as the process was done in order to keep the wax from fracturing and smearing, rather be buffed off.
There are various "high numbers" mentioned in some tech papers, from a high of no more than 100 F up to 120F, I went with the temperature that was arrived at in the SAE paper, since I was involved through Ford in the paper.
We provide both the ETG-1 and the ETG-2 gauges, the #2 of course reads from ferrous or aluminum substrates. The #2 goes for around a grand.
All you do to recalibrate is follow the directions that come with it, very simple, you even get the little non-painted plate and two premeasured film builds, marked with the amount they are.
When you place the unit on the plain plate it must read 000, when you put one of the film build peices on the plate, say it is marked 2.3 mil, the unit should read 2.3.
If not, follow the easy to read and understand instructions, after all it is an American built unit and the book was written by an American, the inventor of these units.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it all!
Not so with any modern chemistry compounds or polishes, for if you have done a search, for the SAE paper that is mentioned, (we can not publish it, copyrighted), the use of incorrect pad or buffing materials cause serious concerns.
Low side is any temp above freezing, although when we did a project with Hyundai years ago involving fasica's that had the shipping wax imbedded in them, the company leased 4 special Ingersall Rand cryogenic buffering units, where nitrogen gas was injected into the lambs wool pad as the process was done in order to keep the wax from fracturing and smearing, rather be buffed off.
There are various "high numbers" mentioned in some tech papers, from a high of no more than 100 F up to 120F, I went with the temperature that was arrived at in the SAE paper, since I was involved through Ford in the paper.
We provide both the ETG-1 and the ETG-2 gauges, the #2 of course reads from ferrous or aluminum substrates. The #2 goes for around a grand.
All you do to recalibrate is follow the directions that come with it, very simple, you even get the little non-painted plate and two premeasured film builds, marked with the amount they are.
When you place the unit on the plain plate it must read 000, when you put one of the film build peices on the plate, say it is marked 2.3 mil, the unit should read 2.3.
If not, follow the easy to read and understand instructions, after all it is an American built unit and the book was written by an American, the inventor of these units.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it all!
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Re: Grumpies Article! July 05, 2004 02:10AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 243 |
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