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waxing
Posted by Larry O'Brien
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waxing July 10, 2004 07:36PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 16 |
<HTML>
I recently waxed a 10 year old red cavalier. I wasn't happy after one application so I tried a second application. It made a significant difference.I have only been in the business for 6 months and have always done only one application of wax. Is it normal to apply more than one coat of wax or do you do it in only certain situations if at all.
Also how long should a wax be left on before you wipe it off?
Thanks for your help
Larry</HTML>
I recently waxed a 10 year old red cavalier. I wasn't happy after one application so I tried a second application. It made a significant difference.I have only been in the business for 6 months and have always done only one application of wax. Is it normal to apply more than one coat of wax or do you do it in only certain situations if at all.
Also how long should a wax be left on before you wipe it off?
Thanks for your help
Larry</HTML>
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Re: waxing July 10, 2004 08:03PM |
<HTML>Sounds like the vehicle in question had very light oxidation next time use a cleaner polish followed with a good sealant or pure carnuaba wax
For waxes 10 min or hazing begins start removing what you applied first
For sealants no LESS than 30 min
Those are my rules if all else fail read the instructions on the CONTAINER
GOOD LUCK HAPPY POLISHING AND PROTECTING PAINT</HTML>
For waxes 10 min or hazing begins start removing what you applied first
For sealants no LESS than 30 min
Those are my rules if all else fail read the instructions on the CONTAINER
GOOD LUCK HAPPY POLISHING AND PROTECTING PAINT</HTML>
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Re: waxing July 10, 2004 08:26PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 52 |
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Re: waxing July 10, 2004 10:32PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 243 |
<HTML>There is probably where your problem lies! Too direct/indirect heat from the sun. Then, as NEW AGAIN said, oxidization,and should have used a precleaner. Bud Abraham sells some very good Cleaner/Sealant called "ONE STEP" as it s named "ONE STEP" it has a percentage of his Dianond Plus which grades out at the top of the chart for Automotive Sealants..Brandy ! Go to DETAILPLUS.Com and see all of their stuff. Above all make sure that you are out of the sun and the surface is cool. You can get one of the little infra red themometers for about 70-80 bucks.I found it to be a good investment. You can also use it in many other ways,checking out bearings on rotating equipment is one............................ :-) Brandy!</HTML>
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Re: waxing July 11, 2004 12:47AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 52 |
<HTML>so to get back to the time
what 'new again' said ... is that about the right time one should use to apply a wax???
the guy who used to train me told me to not let any wax dry... which is what would happen after 10 min of leaving the wax on the surface...
i am so confused here
see ya
michael c</HTML>
what 'new again' said ... is that about the right time one should use to apply a wax???
the guy who used to train me told me to not let any wax dry... which is what would happen after 10 min of leaving the wax on the surface...
i am so confused here
see ya
michael c</HTML>
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Re: waxing July 11, 2004 12:59AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 751 |
<HTML>Michael..
For wax I let it dry to a haze . I use Malcos FlashWax, dries pretty quick anyway, but I let it sit for 10-15 minutes.
Sealant more or less the same, let it dry to a haze , sometimes let it sit for 20-30 minutes.
The wax/sealant needs time to cure or bond to the surface it is being applied to. Wipe it off too soon and your removing the product before it had bonded to the surface.
Jim.</HTML>
For wax I let it dry to a haze . I use Malcos FlashWax, dries pretty quick anyway, but I let it sit for 10-15 minutes.
Sealant more or less the same, let it dry to a haze , sometimes let it sit for 20-30 minutes.
The wax/sealant needs time to cure or bond to the surface it is being applied to. Wipe it off too soon and your removing the product before it had bonded to the surface.
Jim.</HTML>
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Re: waxing July 11, 2004 01:27AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1,838 |
<HTML>Wow, I haven't waxed a car in a long time -- just used sealant. For sealants I let sit for 30 minutes then buff off with a soft plush terry or microfiber. Terrys tend to break through dry sealant and waxes.
When I used paste wax I let it dry to a haze then buffed off. Getting dried off wax off a car can be a PITA if wax with a higher content of carnuaba is present.
Larry, what brand of wax did you use? Was it a cleaner/paste wax? Wax has hardly any cleaning/polishing capabilities.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
When I used paste wax I let it dry to a haze then buffed off. Getting dried off wax off a car can be a PITA if wax with a higher content of carnuaba is present.
Larry, what brand of wax did you use? Was it a cleaner/paste wax? Wax has hardly any cleaning/polishing capabilities.</HTML>
Take care,
Brian
Precision Auto & Marine
Learn to detail boats! Visit www.detailtheboat.com
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Re: waxing July 11, 2004 03:01PM |
<HTML>Larry,
Most detailing products used to improve the appearance of a vehicles painted finish can be placed into three categories.
They are; 1- Cleaners, 2- Polishes, 3- Waxes.
1- Cleaners are usually formulated to polish-out mild surface problems such as, oxidation, fine scratches and water spots. Many cleaners may also contain mild solvents to help remove bug residue and minor road tar. Cleaners are more agressive than polishes and wax. Cleaners should only to be used for specific reasons.
2- Polishes help to polish-out any fine dullness caused by the use of a cleaner. Polishes also help to remove light oxidation and mild surface contamination, adding depth of color while restoring a high gloss shine.
3- Waxes provide added protection while deepening the gloss. They actually increase the distinctness of surface image reflection. Sealants fall into this category as they normally outlast regular wax.
Keep in mind that waxes are the least aggressive products when compared to polishes. Just as polishes are less aggressive than cleaners.
Larry, the reason you saw a significant difference after a second application of wax is probably due to the surface becoming more polished. Just as a third or forth coat of wax would in most cases enhance the appearance even further. When it comes to detailing as a business, it's usually a good idea to fully understand what it takes to create very good results every time. Since you're just starting out it's really just a matter of trying to figure out how aggressive you need to get in order to produce good results. For example; with most late model black Corvettes, I've found that it is better to give the car two coats of carnauba wax rather than get too aggressive and use either a polish or cleaner. The second coat of wax just seems to add a rich deepening of the gloss.
In summary, it is always better to use the least aggressive methods first. As long as you get good results, that's really all that matters.
P.S. Most waxes should be allowed to dry to a haze before removal. It is a good idea to apply wax to only one section of the vehicle at a time, until you see how easily the wax comes off. If the wax comes off relatively easy, then you can do a larger section. However, if the wax becomes rather hard to remove, then you will want to stay with doing only small sections at a time. Wax removal time can also vary depending on weather conditions such as, heat and humidity. For example; on a low humidity kind of day, most waxes will usually begin to dry very quickly. While on a high humidity day most waxes will actually take a lot longer to dry.</HTML>
Most detailing products used to improve the appearance of a vehicles painted finish can be placed into three categories.
They are; 1- Cleaners, 2- Polishes, 3- Waxes.
1- Cleaners are usually formulated to polish-out mild surface problems such as, oxidation, fine scratches and water spots. Many cleaners may also contain mild solvents to help remove bug residue and minor road tar. Cleaners are more agressive than polishes and wax. Cleaners should only to be used for specific reasons.
2- Polishes help to polish-out any fine dullness caused by the use of a cleaner. Polishes also help to remove light oxidation and mild surface contamination, adding depth of color while restoring a high gloss shine.
3- Waxes provide added protection while deepening the gloss. They actually increase the distinctness of surface image reflection. Sealants fall into this category as they normally outlast regular wax.
Keep in mind that waxes are the least aggressive products when compared to polishes. Just as polishes are less aggressive than cleaners.
Larry, the reason you saw a significant difference after a second application of wax is probably due to the surface becoming more polished. Just as a third or forth coat of wax would in most cases enhance the appearance even further. When it comes to detailing as a business, it's usually a good idea to fully understand what it takes to create very good results every time. Since you're just starting out it's really just a matter of trying to figure out how aggressive you need to get in order to produce good results. For example; with most late model black Corvettes, I've found that it is better to give the car two coats of carnauba wax rather than get too aggressive and use either a polish or cleaner. The second coat of wax just seems to add a rich deepening of the gloss.
In summary, it is always better to use the least aggressive methods first. As long as you get good results, that's really all that matters.
P.S. Most waxes should be allowed to dry to a haze before removal. It is a good idea to apply wax to only one section of the vehicle at a time, until you see how easily the wax comes off. If the wax comes off relatively easy, then you can do a larger section. However, if the wax becomes rather hard to remove, then you will want to stay with doing only small sections at a time. Wax removal time can also vary depending on weather conditions such as, heat and humidity. For example; on a low humidity kind of day, most waxes will usually begin to dry very quickly. While on a high humidity day most waxes will actually take a lot longer to dry.</HTML>
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Re: waxing July 11, 2004 03:08PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 505 |
<HTML>Pretty much on the target, with one exception.
These products all contain some percentage of a hydrocarbon solvent.
The activity of these solvents, some more agressive than others, plus the percentage will vary based upon what the "intent of use" of the product may be.
An example is "bodyshop" type products contain a less percentage of "hydrocarbon solvent" and a much more "less agressive" solvent.
A "cleaner" type product is not intended for "bodyshop" use, due to the solvent system, plus the abrasive components are more agressive as well.
The "hydrocarbon solvent" system chosen for a "cleaner wax" or "cleaner polish" is of the "active nature", in order to aid in desolving chemically some of the oxidation that is usually present.
It's all basic chemistry, using the correst solvent system, the right combination of various "abrasive-polishing agents", maintaining lubricity in order to allow working time of the components, etc.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it all!
These products all contain some percentage of a hydrocarbon solvent.
The activity of these solvents, some more agressive than others, plus the percentage will vary based upon what the "intent of use" of the product may be.
An example is "bodyshop" type products contain a less percentage of "hydrocarbon solvent" and a much more "less agressive" solvent.
A "cleaner" type product is not intended for "bodyshop" use, due to the solvent system, plus the abrasive components are more agressive as well.
The "hydrocarbon solvent" system chosen for a "cleaner wax" or "cleaner polish" is of the "active nature", in order to aid in desolving chemically some of the oxidation that is usually present.
It's all basic chemistry, using the correst solvent system, the right combination of various "abrasive-polishing agents", maintaining lubricity in order to allow working time of the components, etc.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it all!
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Re: waxing July 12, 2004 12:34PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 16 |
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