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Outside Mirror Refinishing?

Posted by Steve Bough 
<HTML>We have so many customers come through our shop and their outside mirrors are just nearly shot because of pitting from bug guts. I'm thinkin' there must be a few $$ in being able to refinish these.

I'm not really taking about the textured type finishes. I mean the ones that should be smooth and shiney but are pitted and nasty looking.

I'm assuming they'd have to be sanded down (wet sanded?) and repainted.

Anybody do this?</HTML>

Re: Outside Mirror Refinishing?
July 24, 2004 12:50AM
<HTML>The "density" of the plastic, like on the smooth plastic used on some GM's and DCX's is not very deep, so be careful.

A little wet sanding with some 1000 grit, followed by the rotary and lambs wool pad, some mild polish, and no more than a 1000 rpm can often reduce, if not eliminate, the pits.

If they don't come out with light sanding, what you may find is that you won't be able to get the mirrors to gloss up, due to the dense surface being removed.

Sort of like an over buffed or wetsanded and buffed, clear, just wants to stay hazy.

As we say in our school, "you can't really make a sponge shine".

Ketch</HTML>



Do it right or don't do it all!
Re: Outside Mirror Refinishing?
July 24, 2004 01:34AM
<HTML>Steve, I experimented with a Flitz Polishing Ball,and some of Bud's One-Step Cleaner Polish. Its as Grump said, be careful,as I thought I was, and got a dull spot under the mirror base. The mirrors were very,very dull,and I showed the owner what I had done. He was happy the rest of it looked as good as it did,from what it did before I started. I then put a good coat of the Diamond Plus on it and Buffed it off to a High Shine. They did look very good.! Be sure to wipe off with Alcohol or Mineral Spirits as you work, thus checking how your doing as you go. If I'd had some of the 1500-2000 grit wet dry paper at the time, I could have cut down on the Flitz Ball time,and possible not got a dull spot as I did.....Hope this Helps.....:-) Brandy !
P.S. if you got it, use the Alcohol as It evaporates faster than Mineral Spirits,when cleaning your compound/cleaner off, or a clear water rag,and dry rag, when wet sanding to check to see what your surface is looking like................</HTML>
Re: Outside Mirror Refinishing?
July 24, 2004 01:42AM
<HTML>I will tell you this ...honest to God truth.

Don't ,whatever you do, damage the mirror, I got a new mirror for a friends Surbaban from the dealership I work at . Cost to me (employee price) $332, retail $646 . This was for the complete mirror with defrost. I hate to think how much they cost with the turn signal in the glass .

Jim.</HTML>
Re: Outside Mirror Refinishing?
July 24, 2004 01:54AM
<HTML>If you are not having to wet sand these mirrors, just use the lambs wool, much less agressive than the Fritz Ball, we use our OEM One Step, but any cleaner/polish/sealant should work.

We take the same product and use it to hand polish the smooth, not pebble grain, cowel covers, takes the oxidation right off, and keeps it from oxidizing for several months.

Also works on the B or C pillars on some vehicles that fade out.

Ketch</HTML>



Do it right or don't do it all!
Re: Outside Mirror Refinishing?
July 24, 2004 02:37AM
<HTML>By all means, I would definitely use the methods mentioned above. Trying to repaint a mirror will cause you major headaches. First, if the paint doesn't match, it will stick out (literally, lol!) like a very sore thumb. Also, if the paint or clear runs, then you've got to wait until it dries, sand it down and paint it again. Also, it's rather difficult to mask off the mirror so paint doesn't get onto the mirror or on the surface in the housing that holds the mirror. If the color inside the housing is black and you get paint in it, you'll have a real hard time getting it all off. Also, you'll have to mask off the whole area around the mirror, especially the glass, w/s, door and roof area. And, since you're painting such a concentrated area with a lot of rounded surfaces and curves, it's real easy for the clearcoat to run or sag.

So, be careful using the buffer or Flitz ball and stop frequently to check your work. These are great suggestions for a situation that's been driving me crazy. I'm also thinking that the Cyclo with the microfiber pads and an aggressive polish or micro-light compound might be effective. I'll give that a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes.</HTML>



Shine On!

Rod Wesley
Touch Up 'N' Go!
Auto &amp; Marine Appearance Center
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