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Still hazing

Posted by oli 
oli
Still hazing
July 25, 2004 03:24PM
<HTML>I have been working a 2 foot square area with my pc and polishing pad with DACP, 3 or 4 times now. I have worked the product till it looks dry, seems to be about 4 min, but still the black paint has a haze to it. The pc is set to 6 with some pressure behind it and the vehicle is a new G35.
So someone recommended #82 with a pc should get rid of the hazing.
Well, yesterday I found a dealer that carried #82. So last night I started on the G35 and picked one of the areas that had the hazing. I put on a finishing pad and some #82 and set the speed to 5 and worked the area till it looked dry but not quite, probably just over a minute. Wiped it off to check my work and the haze was still there. So I applied some more product and decided maybe it needed a little pressure, about a pound, and worked the product again till dry. Wiped down again, still haze. So I applied some more product again, turned down the speed to 4 and worked the product a little bit longer and then wiped down, still haze. Tried one more time with just the weight of the pc (I could see the pad spin occasionally) and wiped down again, and still had the haze. So I put the pad on the rotary and worked the spot for about 10 sec and till it looked like the product broke down, and yet I didn't want to burn the paint. The spot was pretty warm when I wiped down, but surprisingly the haze was almost completly gone. I decided at this point I had better stop before I do some major damage and so went ahead an applied the wax.
I really would rather use the pc, its just so much better with the stress level not as high as when I am using the rotary.</HTML>
Re: Still hazing
July 25, 2004 03:35PM
<HTML>looks like the rotary is the best method to cure your problems. Take its slow, tape off mouldings, edges and mask anywhere you dont want to sling product.

Then again if you are not comfortable with a rotary I would suggest having someone experienced ( with the rotary ) take care of it for you.

Good luck</HTML>
oli
Re: Still hazing
July 25, 2004 03:54PM
<HTML>I am okay with the rotary, been using it for the last 3 years but just for stubborn areas, but if there is an easier way to get the same results I will go that route. Besides my makita will tire me out after finishing an entire vehicle such as a SUV. With the rotary you need to constantly concentrate. I do find it interesting that my metallic green explorer responds well to the pc, whereas the G35's black paint does not.</HTML>
Re: Still hazing
July 25, 2004 03:58PM
<HTML>Oli-Get yourself, better yet treat your self to a Mikata Varible speed Buffer/Polisher. get the one with the Big "D" Handle, has varible speed and a soft start. Start with some polishing compound. I would recommend Trying some DetailPlus "ONE-STEP" you can get from Bud Abraham. TRhis stuff also has the Diamond Plus in it as well. The if that doesn't work,back up a nothch to 2000 grit. After buffing,wipe all product off with a clean polishing cloth,then do an Alcohol wipe down so see what you have done. If you don't have any experience with a rotary,go to a junk yard and get the owner to let you practice on some old fenders orbetter yet an old hood.........................I hope this helps..............:-) Brandy!</HTML>
Re: Still hazing
July 26, 2004 01:07AM
<HTML>Yup, Brandy, good advice.

Unfortunately, all the real info is not in the post.

It may very well be that this person has been working on a "hammered" surface where more than the ".3 mil" of clear is already gone, or it is a poor refinish panel, or they, themselves" have taken off more than .3 or even .5 mil.

Once you get off more than that small amount, the "sponge" jumps up and confuses the hell out of most who do not have some real "paint education" sort of knowledge.

Ketch</HTML>



Do it right or don't do it all!
oli
Re: Still hazing
July 26, 2004 02:26AM
<HTML>Thanks Brandy, I have the Makita, with the "D" handle. I have some stuff from Bud, but the "one step" is one I don't have. The paint on the G35 is the typical dealer preped car, that looked great coming from the dealer because of all the filler they use after they've scrateched and buffed the hell out of it. So once the prep evaporated after a couple of weeks all the defects started to show through and now I am trying to correct it. On another site they recommended I use #82 or #9 after I complained I couldn't get the haze out after using DACP with the pc. I was told I wouldn't need the rotary after using DACP, just go with #82 and the pc and the haze would be gone. Well as I mentioned it didn't. So I went with my Makita and #82 and it took it out.

So I was curious as to why some individuals are able to take out the haze with the pc and #82, and not me? No matter what I did with the pc it wouldn't clear up. For me only the rotary would work.</HTML>
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