Welcome!
» Log In
» Create A New Profile
Home
>
Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
>
Topic
removing oxidation
Posted by chavaluba
|
removing oxidation June 06, 2005 05:18AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 1 |
|
Re: removing oxidation June 06, 2005 06:05AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 35 |
|
Re: removing oxidation June 06, 2005 04:01PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 51 |
<HTML>To remove paint surface oxidation; use detailers clay to remove any surface contaminants, a solvent type chemical cleaner/polish (Klasse All-In-One) and then a suitable abrasive polish (dependant upon how severe the problem) to remove the oxidized paint (Iz Einzett Ultra Paint Polish™ or Paint Polish™) with a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow, speed #4) and then apply a sealant and / or wax protectant.
JonM</HTML>
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
JonM</HTML>
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
|
Re: removing oxidation June 06, 2005 07:25PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>Couple of things first.
One, are you sure it's "oxidation" and not clearcoat failure?
Two, if not clearcoat failure, and this happens quite often, it may be "hazing" caused by washing, etc.
Over the years, we have found that what most think is "clearcoat oxidation", is in reality "clearcoat failute".
Easy enough to find out, use a 30X lighted magnifier, and look to see if deep down, there are any "bubbles" in the clear.
If "hazing", you will see millions of minor scratches.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
One, are you sure it's "oxidation" and not clearcoat failure?
Two, if not clearcoat failure, and this happens quite often, it may be "hazing" caused by washing, etc.
Over the years, we have found that what most think is "clearcoat oxidation", is in reality "clearcoat failute".
Easy enough to find out, use a 30X lighted magnifier, and look to see if deep down, there are any "bubbles" in the clear.
If "hazing", you will see millions of minor scratches.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
|
Re: removing oxidation June 07, 2005 12:13PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 866 |
|
Re: removing oxidation June 08, 2005 09:41PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
|
Re: removing oxidation June 13, 2005 02:44PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>In the strict sense of the word, clear-coat finishes do not oxidize. That was one of the reasons that the clear coat finish was developed, to prevent the pigments in the paint from "oxidizing" as we know oxidation on a single stage paint finish where the pigments and resins are all mixed together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays.
As Ron K states you could be dealing with clear coat failure, but I would tend to believe, in my years of experience in the business, that what you are dealing with is what I would call "clear-coat dulling.'
That could be brought about by abrasive washing which simply dulls the paint; touchless carwash washing which uses acid which dulls the clear and and simply from exposure to fallout and hot sun, etc.
Most detail chemicals made by legitimate detail chemical companies are "commodities." That is, they all make about the same quality of chemical since they are all in competition with one another for the same business, your business, you can use just about any companies chemicals to remove oxidation or in this case, dulling.
The key is your knowledge:
a. Know the paint finish - single stage or clear-coat
b. Identify the paint finish problem & the degree to which you can correct it.
c. Choose the process - 3 Step; 2 Step; 1 Step
d. Select the tool -
e. The pads
f. The chemicals
With a finish that has a problem in most cases you will do a 3 Step Process:
a. Correct the problem with a high speed buffer and cutting pad (either poly wool or foam, if a clear coat) and a compound, either a light or micro-fine is sufficient
b. Swirl remove/polish with a high speed buffer and a polishing pad and a swirl remover/polish
c. Protect by applying a wax or better yet a paint sealant applied by hand or with an orbital.
You can add claying to the process if you want a super smooth finish, but it is not necessary to remove oxidation or dulling.
Hope that helps you understand the possible processes involved.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS</HTML>
buda
As Ron K states you could be dealing with clear coat failure, but I would tend to believe, in my years of experience in the business, that what you are dealing with is what I would call "clear-coat dulling.'
That could be brought about by abrasive washing which simply dulls the paint; touchless carwash washing which uses acid which dulls the clear and and simply from exposure to fallout and hot sun, etc.
Most detail chemicals made by legitimate detail chemical companies are "commodities." That is, they all make about the same quality of chemical since they are all in competition with one another for the same business, your business, you can use just about any companies chemicals to remove oxidation or in this case, dulling.
The key is your knowledge:
a. Know the paint finish - single stage or clear-coat
b. Identify the paint finish problem & the degree to which you can correct it.
c. Choose the process - 3 Step; 2 Step; 1 Step
d. Select the tool -
e. The pads
f. The chemicals
With a finish that has a problem in most cases you will do a 3 Step Process:
a. Correct the problem with a high speed buffer and cutting pad (either poly wool or foam, if a clear coat) and a compound, either a light or micro-fine is sufficient
b. Swirl remove/polish with a high speed buffer and a polishing pad and a swirl remover/polish
c. Protect by applying a wax or better yet a paint sealant applied by hand or with an orbital.
You can add claying to the process if you want a super smooth finish, but it is not necessary to remove oxidation or dulling.
Hope that helps you understand the possible processes involved.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS</HTML>
buda
|
Re: removing oxidation June 15, 2005 02:53AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 894 |
<HTML>Concours,
Are you talking about uneven gloss from not letting the basecoat flash dry before shooting the clear? Im guessing that is what you are reffering to since the only moisture that could be present are solvents trapped between the base and clear. Im not trying to put you down, just trying to clarify this for the forum.
Dan Draper
DRAPERSAUTOIMAGERY.com</HTML>
Are you talking about uneven gloss from not letting the basecoat flash dry before shooting the clear? Im guessing that is what you are reffering to since the only moisture that could be present are solvents trapped between the base and clear. Im not trying to put you down, just trying to clarify this for the forum.
Dan Draper
DRAPERSAUTOIMAGERY.com</HTML>
|
Re: removing oxidation June 15, 2005 12:07PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>Dan, modern high solid clears, during the first couple of months, following assembly will allow moisture to enter the clear and become trapped.
This is most noticed on vehicles that are transported, using transit wrap, when the surface has some mositure and the wrap is placed over it.
Just a note, on average, the modern vehicle, with a high solid clear, will aborb aprox one pint of water into the clear when the vehicle is subjected to good rain or a car wash.
When one notices this "clouding" of the clear, simply applying IPA to the area, allow it set and then with a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the area, not exceeding 165F and usually the moisture will leave the clear.
The IPA acts as a "drying" agent, and when combined with the heat, it goes away.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
This is most noticed on vehicles that are transported, using transit wrap, when the surface has some mositure and the wrap is placed over it.
Just a note, on average, the modern vehicle, with a high solid clear, will aborb aprox one pint of water into the clear when the vehicle is subjected to good rain or a car wash.
When one notices this "clouding" of the clear, simply applying IPA to the area, allow it set and then with a heat gun or hair dryer, heat the area, not exceeding 165F and usually the moisture will leave the clear.
The IPA acts as a "drying" agent, and when combined with the heat, it goes away.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
|
Re: removing oxidation June 15, 2005 06:14PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 894 |
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.