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clay vs. polish
Posted by Chris Young
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clay vs. polish September 21, 2005 08:52PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
<HTML>Hello,
I'm new to the forum, and new to detailing. I would consider myself a part-time novice. I am currently investigating this as a part-time business, but delivering professional service and results.
Now . . .
Is it necessary to clay a car AND polish it prior to applying a final wax/glaze? Is clay more of a preventative/periodic maintenance product whereas polishing would be for paint that already has a fair amount of damage/swirl marks, etc?
Thanks for any advice! I've found this forum to be quite infomative.
Chris</HTML>
I'm new to the forum, and new to detailing. I would consider myself a part-time novice. I am currently investigating this as a part-time business, but delivering professional service and results.
Now . . .
Is it necessary to clay a car AND polish it prior to applying a final wax/glaze? Is clay more of a preventative/periodic maintenance product whereas polishing would be for paint that already has a fair amount of damage/swirl marks, etc?
Thanks for any advice! I've found this forum to be quite infomative.
Chris</HTML>
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Re: clay vs. polish September 22, 2005 06:58PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 51 |
<HTML>Think of how a true polish works, it has abrasives that are encapsulated in oils, which work as both a carrier system for the abrasive and a lubricant for the applicator.
The clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's very mild abrasives (instead of being a liquid it's a bar applicator) the abrasives 'shear' the imbedded and abrade the surface contaminates and in turn the bar encapsulates them
JonM</HTML>
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
The clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's very mild abrasives (instead of being a liquid it's a bar applicator) the abrasives 'shear' the imbedded and abrade the surface contaminates and in turn the bar encapsulates them
JonM</HTML>
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
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Re: clay vs. polish October 05, 2005 02:13AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 33 |
<HTML>Chris
The difference between a good looking detail job and great looking detail is all in the prep work . Claying is part of that step , as is polishing . They go hand in hand and aren't needed everytime you detail the same vehicle. You wouldn't want to clay and polish your paint every week .</HTML>
The difference between a good looking detail job and great looking detail is all in the prep work . Claying is part of that step , as is polishing . They go hand in hand and aren't needed everytime you detail the same vehicle. You wouldn't want to clay and polish your paint every week .</HTML>
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Re: clay vs. polish October 05, 2005 03:43PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 59 |
<HTML>Clay is a surface cleaner that only eliminates stuff above-the-surface such as fallout, overspray, etc. Because it is not invasive, it never corrects problems below the outermost surface of a finish.
Polish and just about every other product that is buffed (compounds, cleaners, etc.) can be invasive and actually abrade the surface and go into the layered finish.
Think of clay as you would an electric razor that sheers off the beard... but unlike a razor, does not have a risk of cutting below the outermost skin.
As for the "encapsulation" comment, the term is misleading. Nothing is being encased here. Clay collects above-the-surface contaminants. That's why you avoid dropping the clay on the floor... and contaminating it with stuff you wouldn't want to scour your finish with --- so be careful. Butterfingers cost money.
The clay collects debris much like modeling clay collects the ink so when a kid presses modeling clay over newsprint, the transfer of ink goes onto the clay. Same thing with clay; it collects the fallout and... as you use it, you must fold it over and manipulate the clay to a fresh surface... flattening it out and re-applying to the surface. Its pliable and easily fashioned into a workable shape.
If you use clay that has collected too much debris, you will experience a performance falloff. So, you grab a fresh new bar of clay.
Another important note: Use a spray lubricant with the clay, such as Final Inspection, Quick Detailer or the like. It enhances performance and makes the clay last longer.
Some guys are content to use water or even carwash soap... but a spray detailer lubricates better and doesn't dry out the clay. We initially used the clay while we washed the vehicle, using the soapy solution on the car as lubrication ... to save time. Found out that the clay didn't last nearly as long... and incorporating the clay in the buffing process made more economic sense... and provided better performance.
-Steve</HTML>
Polish and just about every other product that is buffed (compounds, cleaners, etc.) can be invasive and actually abrade the surface and go into the layered finish.
Think of clay as you would an electric razor that sheers off the beard... but unlike a razor, does not have a risk of cutting below the outermost skin.
As for the "encapsulation" comment, the term is misleading. Nothing is being encased here. Clay collects above-the-surface contaminants. That's why you avoid dropping the clay on the floor... and contaminating it with stuff you wouldn't want to scour your finish with --- so be careful. Butterfingers cost money.
The clay collects debris much like modeling clay collects the ink so when a kid presses modeling clay over newsprint, the transfer of ink goes onto the clay. Same thing with clay; it collects the fallout and... as you use it, you must fold it over and manipulate the clay to a fresh surface... flattening it out and re-applying to the surface. Its pliable and easily fashioned into a workable shape.
If you use clay that has collected too much debris, you will experience a performance falloff. So, you grab a fresh new bar of clay.
Another important note: Use a spray lubricant with the clay, such as Final Inspection, Quick Detailer or the like. It enhances performance and makes the clay last longer.
Some guys are content to use water or even carwash soap... but a spray detailer lubricates better and doesn't dry out the clay. We initially used the clay while we washed the vehicle, using the soapy solution on the car as lubrication ... to save time. Found out that the clay didn't last nearly as long... and incorporating the clay in the buffing process made more economic sense... and provided better performance.
-Steve</HTML>
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Re: clay vs. polish October 05, 2005 03:50PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
<HTML>Thanks for all the input. My initial reason for asking is that I detailed a car, and after washing it, I clayed it. There were still some light water spots, etc, even after the clay, which I didn't expect using a product designed to remove overspray - I guess I suspected that clay would be more abraisive.
So - on to a polish of some sort? Any thoughts on Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2 - Fine Cut Cleaner? And if I'm using it with a random orbital buffer, is there any particular pad I should be using? Is a terrycloth bonnet okay?
Thanks again</HTML>
So - on to a polish of some sort? Any thoughts on Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2 - Fine Cut Cleaner? And if I'm using it with a random orbital buffer, is there any particular pad I should be using? Is a terrycloth bonnet okay?
Thanks again</HTML>
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Re: clay vs. polish October 06, 2005 12:00AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 59 |
<HTML>Whenever you choose a product, try to start using something that is less aggressive... and escalate the level of abrasiveness gradually... thus avoiding overkill. Less... is often "more".
If you like Meguiar's, try their #3 which is not as aggressive as #2... or consider a one-step product with an orbital or DA. Terry cloth bonnets are fine as long as the pad is uniformly smooth. Foam is also a good choice.
Meguiar's defines its products by categories: cleaners are the most aggressive liquid products, polishes (hand or machine) are less aggressive, and one-steps are a blend of a polish and a protection product, a paint sealant (with mild detergent & fine polish) followed by either a wax (with cleaners), and a wax with no cleaners. Clean, polish, protect, maintain.
Most manufacturers have similar offerings that escalate from protection blends to polishes, and gradually more aggressive to cleaners and micro-compounds (aggressive compounds that are safe for clearcoats) followed by compounds that are gritty abrasives for heavy duty cutting.
Accept that all of us are constantly searching for better and better product performance. Face it, most of us are fanatics passionate about our work... and that is both a gift... and a curse. Avoid analysis-paralysis by staying loyal to the system that works for you... in your environment... and meets or exceeds your demands. Look around... and monitor what's new and seems better... but don't leap all over the place.
Otherwise, you'll wind up with a storage room chocked full of samples, causing confusion and taking up valuable time and space.
Hope that helps a little...
-Steve</HTML>
If you like Meguiar's, try their #3 which is not as aggressive as #2... or consider a one-step product with an orbital or DA. Terry cloth bonnets are fine as long as the pad is uniformly smooth. Foam is also a good choice.
Meguiar's defines its products by categories: cleaners are the most aggressive liquid products, polishes (hand or machine) are less aggressive, and one-steps are a blend of a polish and a protection product, a paint sealant (with mild detergent & fine polish) followed by either a wax (with cleaners), and a wax with no cleaners. Clean, polish, protect, maintain.
Most manufacturers have similar offerings that escalate from protection blends to polishes, and gradually more aggressive to cleaners and micro-compounds (aggressive compounds that are safe for clearcoats) followed by compounds that are gritty abrasives for heavy duty cutting.
Accept that all of us are constantly searching for better and better product performance. Face it, most of us are fanatics passionate about our work... and that is both a gift... and a curse. Avoid analysis-paralysis by staying loyal to the system that works for you... in your environment... and meets or exceeds your demands. Look around... and monitor what's new and seems better... but don't leap all over the place.
Otherwise, you'll wind up with a storage room chocked full of samples, causing confusion and taking up valuable time and space.
Hope that helps a little...
-Steve</HTML>
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