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Proper steps of detailing a car?
Posted by Brandon McCarron
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Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 02:55AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 5 |
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 04:00AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 866 |
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 02:19PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 5 |
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 02:37PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 07:24PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 5 |
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 07:41PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 641 |
<HTML>Thanks for clearing that up.
What Joe was referring to was your "redundant" steps.
Wash the vehicle
(there is a process to this, it is not just "washing the paint", but wheels, wheel wells, jams, etc.)
Clay or ABC to remove contaminates, if acid rain etched, only ABC will do the real job. of removing the acid residue from the clear or paint.
Once dry, locate any areas that require high speed compounding to remove scratches.
Then polish the entire vehicle with a high speed and polishing pad.
Once you have cleaned some areas with the alcohol/water mixture to assure removal of swirls, apply your wax or sealant.
This step may be done by hand, with an orbital buffer or a dual action.
That is the "simple" way, in reality there are a number of other steps for the exterior that should be accomplished as you go along.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
What Joe was referring to was your "redundant" steps.
Wash the vehicle
(there is a process to this, it is not just "washing the paint", but wheels, wheel wells, jams, etc.)
Clay or ABC to remove contaminates, if acid rain etched, only ABC will do the real job. of removing the acid residue from the clear or paint.
Once dry, locate any areas that require high speed compounding to remove scratches.
Then polish the entire vehicle with a high speed and polishing pad.
Once you have cleaned some areas with the alcohol/water mixture to assure removal of swirls, apply your wax or sealant.
This step may be done by hand, with an orbital buffer or a dual action.
That is the "simple" way, in reality there are a number of other steps for the exterior that should be accomplished as you go along.
Ketch</HTML>
Do it right or don't do it at all!
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 08:47PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 5 |
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 07, 2005 11:40PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 24 |
<HTML>More "effective" than necessarily "better".
At least in theory, one can polish by hand and eventually accomplish what a buffer can do but particularly on today's clear coats, that will be "when the cows come home" and then some. It's simply far too much time and labor.
So, to truly remove paint defectives completely and in a timely manner, machine buffing will always have the upper hand.
Of course, there are instance where hand polishing will have to be "good enough". Some examples may be with small isolated spots, where it happens to wind up doing the trick and in areas where a machine's pad can't fit. Sometimes we may just have "make do" in those situations.</HTML>
Nothing is good enough.There is always a way to make it better; a way which we must all strive to learn. ---Sir Henry Royce
At least in theory, one can polish by hand and eventually accomplish what a buffer can do but particularly on today's clear coats, that will be "when the cows come home" and then some. It's simply far too much time and labor.
So, to truly remove paint defectives completely and in a timely manner, machine buffing will always have the upper hand.
Of course, there are instance where hand polishing will have to be "good enough". Some examples may be with small isolated spots, where it happens to wind up doing the trick and in areas where a machine's pad can't fit. Sometimes we may just have "make do" in those situations.</HTML>
Nothing is good enough.There is always a way to make it better; a way which we must all strive to learn. ---Sir Henry Royce
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 08, 2005 01:23AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 59 |
<HTML>The first step is thoroughly washing the vehicle. Remove any tar, bugs, bird droppings, etc. get everything clean and dry.
Once done, you need to inspect the finish and determine what needs to be done. A basic tenant of detailing any vehicle is to use the least aggressive method to achieve your goal.
A good place to start is to clean the surface fallout with a clay bar and some spray lubricant such as a detailing spray. It allows the clay to work easier and prolongs the life of the clay. Clay only cleans stuff laying on top of the paint surface. It does not go into the finish to fix blemishes; only above-the-surface fallout covering the paint finish. Clay also works on glass, chrome, plastic, and hard rubber.
As a basic procedure that becomes almost second nature, pause every so often and inspect your performance. Ebvaluate the surface and see if what you're doing is working to deliver your desired result. If not, consider your options and scrutinize your choice of products. If you are buffing, evaluate which buffing pad and iof you're disappointed with the results... change to a different pad. Not all pads are alike. As well, foam pads widely differ and are job-matched for specific tasks such as cutting, cleaning, polishing and finishing.
If the finish requires high-speed buffing, determine where you need to buff, because sometimes only the horizontal surfaces require buffing with a cleaner. If you don't need to buff, don't. Buffing with a high-speed buffer is a very aggressive step that requires skill and knowledge about speed, product compatibility, and performance.
If you do need to buff, use the least abrasive product needed to smooth the finish and bring out the desired shine. In most cases, you won't need compound... or even a cleaner. If you do, fine. If not, use a polish to bring up the shine. The shine actually comes from smoothing the finish.
Maybe you don't need to use a high-speed buffer. If so, consider either a D-A (dual-action) buffer or an orbital. They are much easier to use and even a novice can use one without risking damage... as long as you use the proper chemical product. Nothing very abrasive. Instead, a mild polish will probably do.
Once the desired shine is achieved, consider which protection product you'd like to use. Liquid or paste; it really makes no difference. You'll find trial and error will teach you the best products for your own taste. As for hand-application or machine, consider this: machine application offers a more uniform application on large surfaces. All the other areas too tight and confined for a 5-to-6" D-A pad require hand-application of products. Buffers are quicker and easier... and actually offer a more uniform result because pressure and agitation is uniformly delivered while hand-application is not as consistent... simply because human beings are not machines and we press harder at our touch-points and lack the consistency of a machine.
Hope this long-winded explanation helps. Sometimes many of us forget how challenging this can be for a newcomer. We all learned the same way, by asking questions... and collecting the answers for trial and error later. There is no single process that fits every occasion because every finish you face may require a slightly different process. No buffing required... or some buffing... or heavy-duty buffing. One product may work great in certain weather, but bog down in other conditions. You're on the right track simply by asking questions. Detailers are typically a good group of people, usually willing to help others and offer helpful suggestions. Some are good. Some are not. All, however, offer a good education. Remember, there are NO foolish questions, just foolish answers. you will gradually learn how to filter out the goofy stuff... and how to spot a credible teacher. Welcome to the club!
Good luck!
-Steve</HTML>
Once done, you need to inspect the finish and determine what needs to be done. A basic tenant of detailing any vehicle is to use the least aggressive method to achieve your goal.
A good place to start is to clean the surface fallout with a clay bar and some spray lubricant such as a detailing spray. It allows the clay to work easier and prolongs the life of the clay. Clay only cleans stuff laying on top of the paint surface. It does not go into the finish to fix blemishes; only above-the-surface fallout covering the paint finish. Clay also works on glass, chrome, plastic, and hard rubber.
As a basic procedure that becomes almost second nature, pause every so often and inspect your performance. Ebvaluate the surface and see if what you're doing is working to deliver your desired result. If not, consider your options and scrutinize your choice of products. If you are buffing, evaluate which buffing pad and iof you're disappointed with the results... change to a different pad. Not all pads are alike. As well, foam pads widely differ and are job-matched for specific tasks such as cutting, cleaning, polishing and finishing.
If the finish requires high-speed buffing, determine where you need to buff, because sometimes only the horizontal surfaces require buffing with a cleaner. If you don't need to buff, don't. Buffing with a high-speed buffer is a very aggressive step that requires skill and knowledge about speed, product compatibility, and performance.
If you do need to buff, use the least abrasive product needed to smooth the finish and bring out the desired shine. In most cases, you won't need compound... or even a cleaner. If you do, fine. If not, use a polish to bring up the shine. The shine actually comes from smoothing the finish.
Maybe you don't need to use a high-speed buffer. If so, consider either a D-A (dual-action) buffer or an orbital. They are much easier to use and even a novice can use one without risking damage... as long as you use the proper chemical product. Nothing very abrasive. Instead, a mild polish will probably do.
Once the desired shine is achieved, consider which protection product you'd like to use. Liquid or paste; it really makes no difference. You'll find trial and error will teach you the best products for your own taste. As for hand-application or machine, consider this: machine application offers a more uniform application on large surfaces. All the other areas too tight and confined for a 5-to-6" D-A pad require hand-application of products. Buffers are quicker and easier... and actually offer a more uniform result because pressure and agitation is uniformly delivered while hand-application is not as consistent... simply because human beings are not machines and we press harder at our touch-points and lack the consistency of a machine.
Hope this long-winded explanation helps. Sometimes many of us forget how challenging this can be for a newcomer. We all learned the same way, by asking questions... and collecting the answers for trial and error later. There is no single process that fits every occasion because every finish you face may require a slightly different process. No buffing required... or some buffing... or heavy-duty buffing. One product may work great in certain weather, but bog down in other conditions. You're on the right track simply by asking questions. Detailers are typically a good group of people, usually willing to help others and offer helpful suggestions. Some are good. Some are not. All, however, offer a good education. Remember, there are NO foolish questions, just foolish answers. you will gradually learn how to filter out the goofy stuff... and how to spot a credible teacher. Welcome to the club!
Good luck!
-Steve</HTML>
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 08, 2005 01:23AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 59 |
<HTML>The first step is thoroughly washing the vehicle. Remove any tar, bugs, bird droppings, etc. get everything clean and dry.
Once done, you need to inspect the finish and determine what needs to be done. A basic tenant of detailing any vehicle is to use the least aggressive method to achieve your goal.
A good place to start is to clean the surface fallout with a clay bar and some spray lubricant such as a detailing spray. It allows the clay to work easier and prolongs the life of the clay. Clay only cleans stuff laying on top of the paint surface. It does not go into the finish to fix blemishes; only above-the-surface fallout covering the paint finish. Clay also works on glass, chrome, plastic, and hard rubber.
As a basic procedure that becomes almost second nature, pause every so often and inspect your performance. Ebvaluate the surface and see if what you're doing is working to deliver your desired result. If not, consider your options and scrutinize your choice of products. If you are buffing, evaluate which buffing pad and iof you're disappointed with the results... change to a different pad. Not all pads are alike. As well, foam pads widely differ and are job-matched for specific tasks such as cutting, cleaning, polishing and finishing.
If the finish requires high-speed buffing, determine where you need to buff, because sometimes only the horizontal surfaces require buffing with a cleaner. If you don't need to buff, don't. Buffing with a high-speed buffer is a very aggressive step that requires skill and knowledge about speed, product compatibility, and performance.
If you do need to buff, use the least abrasive product needed to smooth the finish and bring out the desired shine. In most cases, you won't need compound... or even a cleaner. If you do, fine. If not, use a polish to bring up the shine. The shine actually comes from smoothing the finish.
Maybe you don't need to use a high-speed buffer. If so, consider either a D-A (dual-action) buffer or an orbital. They are much easier to use and even a novice can use one without risking damage... as long as you use the proper chemical product. Nothing very abrasive. Instead, a mild polish will probably do.
Once the desired shine is achieved, consider which protection product you'd like to use. Liquid or paste; it really makes no difference. You'll find trial and error will teach you the best products for your own taste. As for hand-application or machine, consider this: machine application offers a more uniform application on large surfaces. All the other areas too tight and confined for a 5-to-6" D-A pad require hand-application of products. Buffers are quicker and easier... and actually offer a more uniform result because pressure and agitation is uniformly delivered while hand-application is not as consistent... simply because human beings are not machines and we press harder at our touch-points and lack the consistency of a machine.
Hope this long-winded explanation helps. Sometimes many of us forget how challenging this can be for a newcomer. We all learned the same way, by asking questions... and collecting the answers for trial and error later. There is no single process that fits every occasion because every finish you face may require a slightly different process. No buffing required... or some buffing... or heavy-duty buffing. One product may work great in certain weather, but bog down in other conditions. You're on the right track simply by asking questions. Detailers are typically a good group of people, usually willing to help others and offer helpful suggestions. Some are good. Some are not. All, however, offer a good education. Remember, there are NO foolish questions, just foolish answers. you will gradually learn how to filter out the goofy stuff... and how to spot a credible teacher. Welcome to the club!
Good luck!
-Steve</HTML>
Once done, you need to inspect the finish and determine what needs to be done. A basic tenant of detailing any vehicle is to use the least aggressive method to achieve your goal.
A good place to start is to clean the surface fallout with a clay bar and some spray lubricant such as a detailing spray. It allows the clay to work easier and prolongs the life of the clay. Clay only cleans stuff laying on top of the paint surface. It does not go into the finish to fix blemishes; only above-the-surface fallout covering the paint finish. Clay also works on glass, chrome, plastic, and hard rubber.
As a basic procedure that becomes almost second nature, pause every so often and inspect your performance. Ebvaluate the surface and see if what you're doing is working to deliver your desired result. If not, consider your options and scrutinize your choice of products. If you are buffing, evaluate which buffing pad and iof you're disappointed with the results... change to a different pad. Not all pads are alike. As well, foam pads widely differ and are job-matched for specific tasks such as cutting, cleaning, polishing and finishing.
If the finish requires high-speed buffing, determine where you need to buff, because sometimes only the horizontal surfaces require buffing with a cleaner. If you don't need to buff, don't. Buffing with a high-speed buffer is a very aggressive step that requires skill and knowledge about speed, product compatibility, and performance.
If you do need to buff, use the least abrasive product needed to smooth the finish and bring out the desired shine. In most cases, you won't need compound... or even a cleaner. If you do, fine. If not, use a polish to bring up the shine. The shine actually comes from smoothing the finish.
Maybe you don't need to use a high-speed buffer. If so, consider either a D-A (dual-action) buffer or an orbital. They are much easier to use and even a novice can use one without risking damage... as long as you use the proper chemical product. Nothing very abrasive. Instead, a mild polish will probably do.
Once the desired shine is achieved, consider which protection product you'd like to use. Liquid or paste; it really makes no difference. You'll find trial and error will teach you the best products for your own taste. As for hand-application or machine, consider this: machine application offers a more uniform application on large surfaces. All the other areas too tight and confined for a 5-to-6" D-A pad require hand-application of products. Buffers are quicker and easier... and actually offer a more uniform result because pressure and agitation is uniformly delivered while hand-application is not as consistent... simply because human beings are not machines and we press harder at our touch-points and lack the consistency of a machine.
Hope this long-winded explanation helps. Sometimes many of us forget how challenging this can be for a newcomer. We all learned the same way, by asking questions... and collecting the answers for trial and error later. There is no single process that fits every occasion because every finish you face may require a slightly different process. No buffing required... or some buffing... or heavy-duty buffing. One product may work great in certain weather, but bog down in other conditions. You're on the right track simply by asking questions. Detailers are typically a good group of people, usually willing to help others and offer helpful suggestions. Some are good. Some are not. All, however, offer a good education. Remember, there are NO foolish questions, just foolish answers. you will gradually learn how to filter out the goofy stuff... and how to spot a credible teacher. Welcome to the club!
Good luck!
-Steve</HTML>
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 08, 2005 05:11PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Brandon:
Great question to which there is no particular right answer. In other words a detailer must be a diagnostician, that is he/she must evalute the paint finish and determine the condition of the paint and what is needed to bring it back to a like-new condition.
To give you some examples:
#1 - If the paint finish is in bad condition with scratches, dulling, etc it would call for a three step process:
a. Buffer, white wool or poly/wool or foam cutting pad; and one of 4 compounds: heavy/medium/light/micro fine
b. Buffer, foam polishing pad and a swirl remover/polish
c. Orbital or Hand application of wax or paint sealant
IF YOU WANT TO CLAY THAT IS YOUR CHOICE, IT IS NOT PARTICULARLY NECESSARY. SOME DETAILERS INCLUDE IT AS PART OF THEIR PAINT FINISH PROCESS AND IT WOULD BE DONE AFTER WASHING. IF YOU WASH AGAIN AFTER CLAYING WOULD DEPEND ON THE RESIDUAL ON THE PAINT FINISH.
#2 - If the paint finish was just in need of a smoothing then you would do the following:
a. Buffer; foam polishing pad and swirl remover/polish
b. Orbital or Hand application of wax or paint sealant
#3 - Same scenario as #2, but you want to short-cut
a. Buffer; foam polishing pad and a one-step product which are called, cleaner/waxes; one shot; cleaner/glaze, etc. It corrects, polishes and protects in one step.
This is not something I would do for a retail customer. This process and the product was developed primarily for dealer cars. Low cost product and low cost procedure.
As I said, the claying is optional, depending on your attitude and your customer's willingness to pay for service. I would not sell him on the paint finish procedure and then ask him/her "do you want us to clay the finish?" That seems like a scam and upsell.
If you think the paint finish needs to be clayed then include it in the price and tell them what you will do for the price, including the clay . Then it seems like a professional approach to paint finishing.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS</HTML>
buda
Great question to which there is no particular right answer. In other words a detailer must be a diagnostician, that is he/she must evalute the paint finish and determine the condition of the paint and what is needed to bring it back to a like-new condition.
To give you some examples:
#1 - If the paint finish is in bad condition with scratches, dulling, etc it would call for a three step process:
a. Buffer, white wool or poly/wool or foam cutting pad; and one of 4 compounds: heavy/medium/light/micro fine
b. Buffer, foam polishing pad and a swirl remover/polish
c. Orbital or Hand application of wax or paint sealant
IF YOU WANT TO CLAY THAT IS YOUR CHOICE, IT IS NOT PARTICULARLY NECESSARY. SOME DETAILERS INCLUDE IT AS PART OF THEIR PAINT FINISH PROCESS AND IT WOULD BE DONE AFTER WASHING. IF YOU WASH AGAIN AFTER CLAYING WOULD DEPEND ON THE RESIDUAL ON THE PAINT FINISH.
#2 - If the paint finish was just in need of a smoothing then you would do the following:
a. Buffer; foam polishing pad and swirl remover/polish
b. Orbital or Hand application of wax or paint sealant
#3 - Same scenario as #2, but you want to short-cut
a. Buffer; foam polishing pad and a one-step product which are called, cleaner/waxes; one shot; cleaner/glaze, etc. It corrects, polishes and protects in one step.
This is not something I would do for a retail customer. This process and the product was developed primarily for dealer cars. Low cost product and low cost procedure.
As I said, the claying is optional, depending on your attitude and your customer's willingness to pay for service. I would not sell him on the paint finish procedure and then ask him/her "do you want us to clay the finish?" That seems like a scam and upsell.
If you think the paint finish needs to be clayed then include it in the price and tell them what you will do for the price, including the clay . Then it seems like a professional approach to paint finishing.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS</HTML>
buda
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 08, 2005 07:31PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 5 |
<HTML>Steve and Bud,
Thanks for your response, it was very helpful. You guys sumed up just about everything although I still have questions. I started looking around for a polish that fits the job, how do you know what is less abrasive and what is more abrasive? And if buffing is not necessary isn't it better to polish in a NON-circular motion?</HTML>
Thanks for your response, it was very helpful. You guys sumed up just about everything although I still have questions. I started looking around for a polish that fits the job, how do you know what is less abrasive and what is more abrasive? And if buffing is not necessary isn't it better to polish in a NON-circular motion?</HTML>
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 09, 2005 05:18AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>Brandon:
A polish is not a compound, it is a chemical formulated to remove buffer swirls and/or polish the paint to a smooth high shine.
You really should not be talking about "abrasives" when you say polish or swirl remover.
What you are referring to are compounds which, as I said, are heavy, medium, light and micro fine.
Most clear coat finishes need only a light or micro fine to correct any problems.
You always follow a compound with a buffer, foam polishing pad and a swirlremover/polish
The buffer moves in a circular motion, let it do it's thing you simply guide it.
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
A polish is not a compound, it is a chemical formulated to remove buffer swirls and/or polish the paint to a smooth high shine.
You really should not be talking about "abrasives" when you say polish or swirl remover.
What you are referring to are compounds which, as I said, are heavy, medium, light and micro fine.
Most clear coat finishes need only a light or micro fine to correct any problems.
You always follow a compound with a buffer, foam polishing pad and a swirlremover/polish
The buffer moves in a circular motion, let it do it's thing you simply guide it.
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
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Re: Proper steps of detailing a car? October 13, 2005 05:01PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 51 |
<HTML>As an ‘enthusiast’ detailer these are the ‘steps’ *I* use, as for the products stated they are what I use (there are some 30,000 car care products available, it’s a question of finding what works for you)
Sequence of Product Application: *My* recommended products / sequence
1.Pre-Wash- Stage One PreWash
2.Car wash concentrate- Menzerna Auto Shampoo
3.Detailer’s clay- Clay Magic™ ‘Blue
Machine polish abrasion choice is dependant upon condition of paint surface
4.Machine polish 1- Menzerna Power Gloss Compound
5.Machine polish 2- Menzerna Intensive Polish - Menzerna PO106FF (for CeramiClear)
6.Machine polish 3- Menzerna Final Polish II 2- Menzerna P085RD (for CeramiClear )
7.Glaze- Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze2
8.Chemical cleaner- Klasse All-In-One or Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover
9. (LSP) Polymer sealant- Z2PRO™ Show Car Polish + ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive, spray the applicator and vehicle surface with Z-6™ Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer Spray between layers
10. Booster spray- spray surface with Z-8 Grand Finale™ Spray Seal
Or Omit the Z-8 Grand Finale™ Spray Seal and apply a Carnauba wax as a last step product (LSP)
9a. (LSP) Carnauba wax- Pinnacle Souverän Paste Carnauba
10a. Quick Detailer Pinnacle Crystal Mist
Notes:
1.As long as you have an understanding of what each step does you can alter the sequence or omit steps in the sequence to suit paints condition / needs
2.A polish that contains oils should be cleaned with a 1:1 solution of Isopropyl alcohol / distilled water before the application of a polymer (oils will not effect the setting-up of a Carnauba wax)
3.You cannot apply a polymer over a Glaze or a Carnauba wax due to bonding incompatibility
4.Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the polymer cross-linking / bonding may be compromised.
5.Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils will abort the cross-linking or bonding process of a polymer just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability may be adversely affected
JonM</HTML>
Sequence of Product Application: *My* recommended products / sequence
1.Pre-Wash- Stage One PreWash
2.Car wash concentrate- Menzerna Auto Shampoo
3.Detailer’s clay- Clay Magic™ ‘Blue
Machine polish abrasion choice is dependant upon condition of paint surface
4.Machine polish 1- Menzerna Power Gloss Compound
5.Machine polish 2- Menzerna Intensive Polish - Menzerna PO106FF (for CeramiClear)
6.Machine polish 3- Menzerna Final Polish II 2- Menzerna P085RD (for CeramiClear )
7.Glaze- Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze2
8.Chemical cleaner- Klasse All-In-One or Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover
9. (LSP) Polymer sealant- Z2PRO™ Show Car Polish + ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive, spray the applicator and vehicle surface with Z-6™ Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer Spray between layers
10. Booster spray- spray surface with Z-8 Grand Finale™ Spray Seal
Or Omit the Z-8 Grand Finale™ Spray Seal and apply a Carnauba wax as a last step product (LSP)
9a. (LSP) Carnauba wax- Pinnacle Souverän Paste Carnauba
10a. Quick Detailer Pinnacle Crystal Mist
Notes:
1.As long as you have an understanding of what each step does you can alter the sequence or omit steps in the sequence to suit paints condition / needs
2.A polish that contains oils should be cleaned with a 1:1 solution of Isopropyl alcohol / distilled water before the application of a polymer (oils will not effect the setting-up of a Carnauba wax)
3.You cannot apply a polymer over a Glaze or a Carnauba wax due to bonding incompatibility
4.Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the polymer cross-linking / bonding may be compromised.
5.Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils will abort the cross-linking or bonding process of a polymer just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability may be adversely affected
JonM</HTML>
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