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fall-out contamination
Posted by kevin andersen
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fall-out contamination January 05, 2006 08:33PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
<HTML>Dear Sirs: What do you recommend to get rid of fall out contamination? An acid wash or a clay bar? If it's an acid wash, do I need alkaline after the acid wash? Some sites sell fall out remover and say nothing of using a neutralizer and then some site say to use an alkaline/neutralizer after the acid wash and some others say an engine degreaser. What do you think is the best way. Thanks</HTML>
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Re: fall-out contamination January 05, 2006 09:41PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 894 |
<HTML>Valugard's ABC is all we use and all we have ever tried. Ron has his hands too deep in with the OEMs that why would you trust any other chemicals?Ive heard bad things about other fallout removers(fading of the paint after 1 month, streaks, and all around burnt clear coat etc..).
I would pretty much stay away from the products that remove fallout without following up with clay bar. Seems to strong to me. If I ever were to use a different product, a neutrlizing car wash soap would surely be used.
Dan Draper
DRAPERSAUTOIMAGERY.com</HTML>
I would pretty much stay away from the products that remove fallout without following up with clay bar. Seems to strong to me. If I ever were to use a different product, a neutrlizing car wash soap would surely be used.
Dan Draper
DRAPERSAUTOIMAGERY.com</HTML>
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Re: fall-out contamination January 05, 2006 10:35PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
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Re: fall-out contamination January 05, 2006 11:02PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 894 |
<HTML>I was talking about fallout removers that don't require clay bar after. The apply then rinse off products. Valugard ABC loosens up the fallout, so you can remove it with the clay bar. Other products are so strong that you don't need to clay, thats not good. Hope that made sense. Take care
Dan Draper
DRAPERSAUTOIMAGERY.com</HTML>
Dan Draper
DRAPERSAUTOIMAGERY.com</HTML>
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Decontamination / Neutralization system January 06, 2006 12:40AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 51 |
<HTML>This 3-part system from Automotive International (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system (http:// www.autoint.com) comprises;
A-Acid Neutralizer, B-Alkaline Neutralizer (Use detailer’s clay and the alkaline wash to remove stubborn ‘water spots’) and C- a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination and neutralizes any residual acid from the painted finish. Any subsequent etching requires an abrasive to level the paint surface
System comprises:
•A is an acid neutralizer that removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits, a solution of an 8:1 concentrate /clean water , allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.
•B is an alkaline neutralizer, removes alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout, allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailers clay to remove contaminants.
•C is a pH 7.0 surface conditioner a 128:1 concentrate vehicle wash and the third step in the neutralization process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away.
Use separate wash mitt for products A and C, the use of the ValuGard Dispenser trigger spray container for products will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy
Information resource-Automotive International- [www.autoint.com]
Product specific- [www.autoint.com];
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
A-Acid Neutralizer, B-Alkaline Neutralizer (Use detailer’s clay and the alkaline wash to remove stubborn ‘water spots’) and C- a pH 7.0 Surface Conditioner, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination and neutralizes any residual acid from the painted finish. Any subsequent etching requires an abrasive to level the paint surface
System comprises:
•A is an acid neutralizer that removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits, a solution of an 8:1 concentrate /clean water , allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.
•B is an alkaline neutralizer, removes alkaline deposits and ferrous metal fallout, allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailers clay to remove contaminants.
•C is a pH 7.0 surface conditioner a 128:1 concentrate vehicle wash and the third step in the neutralization process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away.
Use separate wash mitt for products A and C, the use of the ValuGard Dispenser trigger spray container for products will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy
Information resource-Automotive International- [www.autoint.com]
Product specific- [www.autoint.com];
[ each one / teach one, then student /becomes teacher ]
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Re: Decontamination / Neutralization system January 06, 2006 01:56AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
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Re: Decontamination / Neutralization system January 06, 2006 02:39AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 2 |
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Re: Decontamination / Neutralization system January 06, 2006 02:01PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 585 |
<HTML>I am impressed that you are able to read, but nevertheless every situation requires a different approach.
I use ABC and have used it on some of the worst fall out you could imagine. At times it has been necessary to use a clay bar, simply because the metal particles would not budge even after 4 attempts at decontamination.</HTML>
I use ABC and have used it on some of the worst fall out you could imagine. At times it has been necessary to use a clay bar, simply because the metal particles would not budge even after 4 attempts at decontamination.</HTML>
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Re: Decontamination / Neutralization system January 10, 2006 06:35AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
<HTML>What are you referring to as fallout?
There is really no magic to removing an acidic fallout from the surface of the car whether or not it has etched the surface.
First, if there is fallout it is probably acidic so you must neutralize the acid by using an alkaline product.
Second, after neutralizing the acidic surface with an alkaline product all you need to do is rinse it off and then,
Wash the car with a low alkaline shampoo.
If there is surface contamination which you can feel with your fingertips or by placing the cellophane wrapper over your fingers and then moving it over the surface, then you should use clay. That is, if you are anal and want a perfect job, or if the customer will pay for the claying to make the surface perfect.
As I have always told you there is no magic in chemicals, it is basic chemistry and the formulation of ingredients to create a product to solve a problem. Most chemical companies have the same ingredients and smart chemists and what they do is formulate what the sales people tell them they need to compete in the market.
If you have found something that works and is reasonably priced, go for it.
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
There is really no magic to removing an acidic fallout from the surface of the car whether or not it has etched the surface.
First, if there is fallout it is probably acidic so you must neutralize the acid by using an alkaline product.
Second, after neutralizing the acidic surface with an alkaline product all you need to do is rinse it off and then,
Wash the car with a low alkaline shampoo.
If there is surface contamination which you can feel with your fingertips or by placing the cellophane wrapper over your fingers and then moving it over the surface, then you should use clay. That is, if you are anal and want a perfect job, or if the customer will pay for the claying to make the surface perfect.
As I have always told you there is no magic in chemicals, it is basic chemistry and the formulation of ingredients to create a product to solve a problem. Most chemical companies have the same ingredients and smart chemists and what they do is formulate what the sales people tell them they need to compete in the market.
If you have found something that works and is reasonably priced, go for it.
Regards
Bud Abraham</HTML>
buda
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