Impact driver( wrench)

I have run into situations where I cannot muscle off a bolt, such as a brake bolt located on the inside. (I am doing a brake job on a G35) I have heard some impact drivers(wrenches) are not worth it.
Anybody have one and would they recommend it? Its pretty tight behind the brakes and so I am thinking a cordless might be too bulky and I won't be able to get a hold on the bolt with the impact.

Oli-
Talk to your Snap-on Tool man .

I'm betting you need a top quality 6 point socket, a reducer, and a long 1/2 " breaker bar .

In case I'm wrong, Sears sells a Craftsman hand-powered impact driver that you hammer on .

Spray the offending bolt with rust penetrant ( my favorite is Liquid Wrench original formula ) . The pros like CRC556 and I liked Mopar's heat riser valve solvent-but good luck finding that brand today . After spraying, tap on the bolt and let it soak overnight .

If all else fails, heat it with a butane torch but be cautious as you are working with brake parts . This is all AT YOUR OWN RISK .

And make sure you are going in the right direction ; Right to tighten / Left to loosen .

Doug

Problem is I don't have much room and with the breaker bar I didn't have much leverage. I am up against suspension and the bottom of the wheel well and rocker panel and was starting to round off the bolt, to decided to go with impact driver or wrench, once I figure out the difference.

oli-
That's why I said to ask the Snap-on Tool man ! He'll likely have a flex-socket, u-joint, wobbly extension or other tool that will enable you to get a straight shot at the bolt and still move the ratchet or breaker bar .

There are now special tool sets consisting of cutters that dig into rounded bolts to grip and remove them, if it comes to that . I doubt that Vise-Grips will work in such a confined area as you describe .

Basically, " impact wrench " usually describes a gun-shaped power tool. It can be air or electric powered .
The " impact driver " I mentioned is a cylindrical hand tool you strike with a hammer . The term is now used for power tools as well .

I wonder if you have the car up high enough to operate freely. If not, maybe you can drive to a place with a lift and pay to have the bolt loosened . Then you could drive home and complete the repair .

If you go with a power tool, you'll need an impact socket and maybe an extension
etc. Wear eye protection .

I'm assuming you have tried moving the steering wheel hard to each side for better access .

You could ask the Nissan dealer parts department if there is a special tool made for this task and ask the service department how they cope with it too .
Good luck ! And post how it turns out....

Doug

Thanks, Doug, that was helpful. I have the problem with just the rear brakes, since they are the only ones complaining. I've thought about going to someone and having them loosen the bolt, but this gives me an excuse to buy another tool. And this is a tool I will probably use often, considering that I can remove the lug nuts on wheels in less than half the time. Also I don't like relying on others if I don't really have to.

oli-
Forgot to mention that the hand impact driver Sears sells is probably made for them by Lisle and would be available at many auto parts stores. Snap-on, I believe , makes a hand impact driver as well as powered impact tools . Other tool men handle Mac and Matco brands ( They are good but I'm partial to Snap-on ) .

Doug

" If at first, you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer. "