More info on Opti-Coat


Dear Mr. Daley:

Thank you for your reply. First let me clear some misconception for you. Opti-Coat is fully guaranteed when used for its intended purpose. We do send an approval form (not a release form) to professional detailers and qualify them before offering them this product. As I mentioned before, this is not a sealant that can be removed by solvents, alcohol, or detergents. It can only be removed by using automotive paint removers or by polishing, if it is not applied correctly. The professionals that are on our approved list can polish this product without leaving swirl marks.

We have had Opti-Coat on several test cars for over 7 years. This coating does not oxidize like urethanes or other factory clearcoats, therefore it continues to bead water over time and resists attack from chemicals in the environment such as acid rain or bird droppings. This coating is inherently much harder than factory clears since the backbone of our polymer is Si-C (silicon carbide). As I mentioned, this product is only offered to professional detailers. We do have a consumer version, Opti-Coat 2.0, which is available now. You can obtain a sample of Opti-Coat 2.0 from any of our distributors if you decide to try it out for yourself.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again.

Best Regards,
David Ghodoussi, CEO
Optimum Polymer Technologies, Inc
Phone: (901) 363-4955
Fax: (901) 363-4956




This is another email from the CEO of Opti-Coat. He has been very kind in answering my questions. Although, several things concern me about this product.

I do not contest that this product it has it's merits, and it may be harder
than regular clearcoats. Although, this statement concerns me:
. As I mentioned before, this is not a sealant that can be removed by solvents, alcohol, or detergents. It can only be removed by using automotive paint removers or by polishing, if it is not applied correctly. The professionals that are on our approved list can polish this product without leaving swirl marks.

Their testing consists of several cars that have had the product applied to them for seven years, but under what conditions? Nothing is stated on that.

He states the only way to remove the product is with a auto paint remover,or by polishing it off.He also states professionals approved by Opti-Coat can polish this product without leaving swirls marks.

Let's say I want to use the consumer version, and this is my Jeep
[truthindetailing.com]

I have washed it twice with dawn and iron x, and it looks like this.Now according to the CEO:Before applying Opti-Coat, the surface needs to be free of any defects or the defects will be trapped under the coating. Any wax or oil also should be removed or it will affect the bonding.

I feel not all the wax and oils have been removed from this Jeep, and if applied
there may be a bonding issue. The swirls and fine scratches are wax residue
that still need to come off. Others may feel different about that.

I hope that I am wrong about this, but it is something to consider if your car looks like this Jeep.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/18/2011 11:33PM by billd55.

He says he did a wipe-down with IPA/Dawn mix. This leaves the paint free of oils and residues. I use that mix myself before applying CQuartz and it does a good job. Besides that, he started with a Dawn - IronX- Dawn sequence of washing. That removes virtually all waxes from the paint.

I would suggest that the swirls and fine scratches are just that. It is an after-market paint job and they can notoriously soft and susceptible to marring.

Profile Detailer
Quote
I would suggest that the swirls and fine scratches are just that. It is an after-market paint job and they can notoriously soft and susceptible to marring.

Clearly this paint has been buffed with a harsh abrasive.This is the detailer's Jeep, and he does not state the reason for the repaint.Although, considering this vehicle is only five years old, repainted, and located in Atlanta Georgia. This paint finish looks like crap when all the fillers, glazes, and waxes are removed.


He says he did a wipe-down with IPA/Dawn mix. I did not see that?

Besides that, he started with a Dawn - IronX- Dawn sequence of washing. That removes virtually all waxes from the paint.Maybe you are right? Although,
when you heat up glazes and fillers during buffing they get hard, and very hard
to remove.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/20/2011 10:56PM by billd55.

Some of those aftermarket paints you can scratch with your thumbnail. If he let it get into that condition before polishing, he will probably do it again. If I were him, I would just sell the Jeep!

We can speculate all we like about pictures. The only real way to tell is to have the paint in front of you to check. : )

Black CTS-V, heavy paint correction and Opti-Guard coating


[truthindetailing.com]

My problem with correction is that it really does not correct the problem it just covers it up. Well, this my be different because you are fixing the damage, but read the comments about what he says about Opti-Coat. It sets up quick, and he suggests it be applied in an enclosed area like a garage.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/23/2011 10:12PM by billd55.

Bill-
Those are not swirls. They are cobweb scratches and are most certainly not, as you suspect, wax residues.

(I can understand "holograms" but you are experiencing "hallucinations")LOL.

If this Opti-Coat product lasts 7 years or forever, I'd still ask if it stains from road grime. If it stains, I'd want to use a light polish to clean away the stains, which would remove the product and necessitate reapplying the Opti-Coat.

I've been getting 6 months plus from Zaino ( AIO with a coat of Z-2 ) but I still get staining from road grime. If I wanted the vehicles to look their best, I'd polish and reapply the Zaino every 3 months or so.

Car wash soaps do not remove the staining I'm talking about BTW.
Doug