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How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo?
Posted by Bud Abraham
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How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? February 10, 2003 02:57AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Here is a great way to determine if the carpet shampoo you are using will really keep your carpets clean rather than attracting more dirt.
If you use a cheap shampoo or a shampoo at the wrong dilution what will happen is the shampoo residue will cling to the carpet fibers and attract dirt like a magnet.
That is why you must use an extractor to rinse the dirt and shampoo residue out of the carpet fibers after you friction (scrub) shampoo.
Anyway, take a small amount of the shampoo you are now using and be sure to dilute it to the exact dilution recommended by the manufacturer.
Then take a small amount of that and put it in a dish (say 2 or 3 ounces) and let it completely evaporate.
After you do this get back on line and tell me what you find in the dish when the water evaporates.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
If you use a cheap shampoo or a shampoo at the wrong dilution what will happen is the shampoo residue will cling to the carpet fibers and attract dirt like a magnet.
That is why you must use an extractor to rinse the dirt and shampoo residue out of the carpet fibers after you friction (scrub) shampoo.
Anyway, take a small amount of the shampoo you are now using and be sure to dilute it to the exact dilution recommended by the manufacturer.
Then take a small amount of that and put it in a dish (say 2 or 3 ounces) and let it completely evaporate.
After you do this get back on line and tell me what you find in the dish when the water evaporates.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? February 10, 2003 11:17AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 242 |
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? February 10, 2003 03:31PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Thanks for the reply. I will be interested to see the results too.
For the record, shampooing interior carpets is a simple scientific process:
1. 80% to 85% of the dirt in carpets is dry dirt.
2. 15% to 20% is oily dirt
3. First step is to thoroughly vacuum to remove all the dry dirt.
4. Next, spot and remove any stains with appropriate stain remover
5. Pre-spray to loosen oil dirt from carpet fibers
6. Where the carpet is really dirty use a friction method of shampooing,
either hand brush or air or electric rotary shampooer
7. Use a heated soil extractor to remove shampoo and dirt residue.
This MUST be done with an extractor a vacuum-only leaves the shampoo
and dirt residue which will be like a magnet to attract new dirt when it
dries.
This will also cause either wicking or resoiling of the carpet. Extraction is
a must for thorough cleaning of carpets.
The shampoo you use for the friction step is critical. If it is a cheap, poorly made shampoo you will have resoiling very quickly.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
buda
For the record, shampooing interior carpets is a simple scientific process:
1. 80% to 85% of the dirt in carpets is dry dirt.
2. 15% to 20% is oily dirt
3. First step is to thoroughly vacuum to remove all the dry dirt.
4. Next, spot and remove any stains with appropriate stain remover
5. Pre-spray to loosen oil dirt from carpet fibers
6. Where the carpet is really dirty use a friction method of shampooing,
either hand brush or air or electric rotary shampooer
7. Use a heated soil extractor to remove shampoo and dirt residue.
This MUST be done with an extractor a vacuum-only leaves the shampoo
and dirt residue which will be like a magnet to attract new dirt when it
dries.
This will also cause either wicking or resoiling of the carpet. Extraction is
a must for thorough cleaning of carpets.
The shampoo you use for the friction step is critical. If it is a cheap, poorly made shampoo you will have resoiling very quickly.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
buda
|
Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? February 10, 2003 03:31PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Thanks for the reply. I will be interested to see the results too.
For the record, shampooing interior carpets is a simple scientific process:
1. 80% to 85% of the dirt in carpets is dry dirt.
2. 15% to 20% is oily dirt
3. First step is to thoroughly vacuum to remove all the dry dirt.
4. Next, spot and remove any stains with appropriate stain remover
5. Pre-spray to loosen oil dirt from carpet fibers
6. Where the carpet is really dirty use a friction method of shampooing,
either hand brush or air or electric rotary shampooer
7. Use a heated soil extractor to remove shampoo and dirt residue.
This MUST be done with an extractor a vacuum-only leaves the shampoo
and dirt residue which will be like a magnet to attract new dirt when it
dries.
This will also cause either wicking or resoiling of the carpet. Extraction is
a must for thorough cleaning of carpets.
The shampoo you use for the friction step is critical. If it is a cheap, poorly made shampoo you will have resoiling very quickly.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
buda
For the record, shampooing interior carpets is a simple scientific process:
1. 80% to 85% of the dirt in carpets is dry dirt.
2. 15% to 20% is oily dirt
3. First step is to thoroughly vacuum to remove all the dry dirt.
4. Next, spot and remove any stains with appropriate stain remover
5. Pre-spray to loosen oil dirt from carpet fibers
6. Where the carpet is really dirty use a friction method of shampooing,
either hand brush or air or electric rotary shampooer
7. Use a heated soil extractor to remove shampoo and dirt residue.
This MUST be done with an extractor a vacuum-only leaves the shampoo
and dirt residue which will be like a magnet to attract new dirt when it
dries.
This will also cause either wicking or resoiling of the carpet. Extraction is
a must for thorough cleaning of carpets.
The shampoo you use for the friction step is critical. If it is a cheap, poorly made shampoo you will have resoiling very quickly.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Bud Abraham
DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
buda
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? February 10, 2003 10:56PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 242 |
Bud,
is there a difference in what you call an "extractor" and a carpet cleaner like you buy at sears that uses hot water, marketed for home carpet?
also, are fabric protectors any good..., umm..., do they really work?
if so, what is a "good" brand?
do they just spray on after cleaning seats, upholstery, carpet, mats, etc?
thanks for the info
is there a difference in what you call an "extractor" and a carpet cleaner like you buy at sears that uses hot water, marketed for home carpet?
also, are fabric protectors any good..., umm..., do they really work?
if so, what is a "good" brand?
do they just spray on after cleaning seats, upholstery, carpet, mats, etc?
thanks for the info
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 08, 2003 03:44AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 61 |
Bud
Since no one else has responded to this experiment, I thought I would. My carpet cleaner shampoo calls for a 2oz. to 5 gallons of water mixture. For convenience sake, I mixed it to a 1oz. to 1 gallon mixture. I then poured 1oz. of the mixture into an 8oz. glass and let it evaproate. I used tap water and the glass looks like it just came out of the dishwasher. There is no sign of any chemicals or water in the glass whatsoever. I hope this is good????
Gary
Since no one else has responded to this experiment, I thought I would. My carpet cleaner shampoo calls for a 2oz. to 5 gallons of water mixture. For convenience sake, I mixed it to a 1oz. to 1 gallon mixture. I then poured 1oz. of the mixture into an 8oz. glass and let it evaproate. I used tap water and the glass looks like it just came out of the dishwasher. There is no sign of any chemicals or water in the glass whatsoever. I hope this is good????
Gary
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 09, 2003 03:57AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 11 |
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 09, 2003 04:45AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 50 |
Bud is right on regarding his concern regarding shampoo residue in carpets.
I have found that to counteract the shampoo residue problem I use a commercially produced " FIBRE RINSE ". This product is mixed with water and then sprayed on to the carpet fiber after cleaning and is then also extracted out. It works well and does a great job of removing the shampoo from the fibers to prevent the telltale " crunchy feel" that often accompanies the dreaded carpet shampoo residue problem.
We follow a very similar process as Buds but since we use the fiber rinse what we do is:
1. apply our shampoo mixture via a large bug sprayer or spray bottle directly to the carpet surface to pre spray the carpet.
2. work the mixture gently into the fibers and pay special attention to spots.
3. let sit to emulsify dirt
4. add rinse solution to the extractor and then extract the carpet removing the dirt and the shampoo.
TIP: this will also prevent your extractor jets, lines and inner pump components from gumming up if you only use your extractor on an occasional basis ( see buds comments regarding the shampoo that has had the carrier water evaporated from it). since you will avoid any shampoo residue as well in the machine.
My understanding of the science behind the fiber rinse product is as follows:
1. most carpet shampoos for the most part are an alkaline base, which promotes the cleaning process ( ph 8 to 10).
2. the fiber rinse is a slightly acidic product ( ph 1 to 6.
3. after the high PH Alkaline "shampoo or detergent" has emulsified the dirt and the extractor has removed it, the low ph acid product is then introduced and this "neutralizes" the residue shampoo leaving the carpets fiber properly rinsed. ( ph close as possible to 7)
4. the end result is a non coated carpet fibre that will feel soft and will not as Bud indicated above wick dirt back onto the carpet surface an in essence enhance resoiling of the carpet.
Simply put proper rinsing of the detergent is essential. As Bud A states above if left on the carpets surface it will do just as good a job of wiping it off of your feet and putting it back onto the carpet as it did to remove it from your carpet when you shampooed it.
The use of fiber rinses works so well that it is a standard procedure used by almost all quality professional commercial carpet cleaners. If it works that world it will most definitely work in the world of car care
On another topic I have found that the world of carpet care products is as equally diverse as that of general car care products. As a result I have found that carpet care products offered by a quality commercial janitorial supply house are the most cost effective and concentrated and work just great. I purchase the chemicals by the gallon and dilution ratios vary from approximately 1 to 3 oz per gallon of water to obtain proper shampoo and rinses.
Bud is right on regarding his concern regarding shampoo residue in carpets.
I have found that to counteract the shampoo residue problem I use a commercially produced " FIBRE RINSE ". This product is mixed with water and then sprayed on to the carpet fiber after cleaning and is then also extracted out. It works well and does a great job of removing the shampoo from the fibers to prevent the telltale " crunchy feel" that often accompanies the dreaded carpet shampoo residue problem.
We follow a very similar process as Buds but since we use the fiber rinse what we do is:
1. apply our shampoo mixture via a large bug sprayer or spray bottle directly to the carpet surface to pre spray the carpet.
2. work the mixture gently into the fibers and pay special attention to spots.
3. let sit to emulsify dirt
4. add rinse solution to the extractor and then extract the carpet removing the dirt and the shampoo.
TIP: this will also prevent your extractor jets, lines and inner pump components from gumming up if you only use your extractor on an occasional basis ( see buds comments regarding the shampoo that has had the carrier water evaporated from it). since you will avoid any shampoo residue as well in the machine.
My understanding of the science behind the fiber rinse product is as follows:
1. most carpet shampoos for the most part are an alkaline base, which promotes the cleaning process ( ph 8 to 10).
2. the fiber rinse is a slightly acidic product ( ph 1 to 6.
3. after the high PH Alkaline "shampoo or detergent" has emulsified the dirt and the extractor has removed it, the low ph acid product is then introduced and this "neutralizes" the residue shampoo leaving the carpets fiber properly rinsed. ( ph close as possible to 7)
4. the end result is a non coated carpet fibre that will feel soft and will not as Bud indicated above wick dirt back onto the carpet surface an in essence enhance resoiling of the carpet.
Simply put proper rinsing of the detergent is essential. As Bud A states above if left on the carpets surface it will do just as good a job of wiping it off of your feet and putting it back onto the carpet as it did to remove it from your carpet when you shampooed it.
The use of fiber rinses works so well that it is a standard procedure used by almost all quality professional commercial carpet cleaners. If it works that world it will most definitely work in the world of car care
On another topic I have found that the world of carpet care products is as equally diverse as that of general car care products. As a result I have found that carpet care products offered by a quality commercial janitorial supply house are the most cost effective and concentrated and work just great. I purchase the chemicals by the gallon and dilution ratios vary from approximately 1 to 3 oz per gallon of water to obtain proper shampoo and rinses.
Bud is right on regarding his concern regarding shampoo residue in carpets.
I have found that to counteract the shampoo residue problem I use a commercially produced " FIBRE RINSE ". This product is mixed with water and then sprayed on to the carpet fiber after cleaning and is then also extracted out. It works well and does a great job of removing the shampoo from the fibers to prevent the telltale " crunchy feel" that often accompanies the dreaded carpet shampoo residue problem.
We follow a very similar process as Buds but since we use the fiber rinse what we do is:
1. apply our shampoo mixture via a large bug sprayer or spray bottle directly to the carpet surface to pre spray the carpet.
2. work the mixture gently into the fibers and pay special attention to spots.
3. let sit to emulsify dirt
4. add rinse solution to the extractor and then extract the carpet removing the dirt and the shampoo.
TIP: this will also prevent your extractor jets, lines and inner pump components from gumming up if you only use your extractor on an occasional basis ( see buds comments regarding the shampoo that has had the carrier water evaporated from it). since you will avoid any shampoo residue as well in the machine.
My understanding of the science behind the fiber rinse product is as follows:
1. most carpet shampoos for the most part are an alkaline base, which promotes the cleaning process ( ph 8 to 10).
2. the fiber rinse is a slightly acidic product ( ph 1 to 6.
3. after the high PH Alkaline "shampoo or detergent" has emulsified the dirt and the extractor has removed it, the low ph acid product is then introduced and this "neutralizes" the residue shampoo leaving the carpets fiber properly rinsed. ( ph close as possible to 7)
4. the end result is a non coated carpet fibre that will feel soft and will not as Bud indicated above wick dirt back onto the carpet surface an in essence enhance resoiling of the carpet.
Simply put proper rinsing of the detergent is essential. As Bud A states above if left on the carpets surface it will do just as good a job of wiping it off of your feet and putting it back onto the carpet as it did to remove it from your carpet when you shampooed it.
The use of fiber rinses works so well that it is a standard procedure used by almost all quality professional commercial carpet cleaners. If it works that world it will most definitely work in the world of car care
On another topic I have found that the world of carpet care products is as equally diverse as that of general car care products. As a result I have found that carpet care products offered by a quality commercial janitorial supply house are the most cost effective and concentrated and work just great. I purchase the chemicals by the gallon and dilution ratios vary from approximately 1 to 3 oz per gallon of water to obtain proper shampoo and rinses.
I have found that to counteract the shampoo residue problem I use a commercially produced " FIBRE RINSE ". This product is mixed with water and then sprayed on to the carpet fiber after cleaning and is then also extracted out. It works well and does a great job of removing the shampoo from the fibers to prevent the telltale " crunchy feel" that often accompanies the dreaded carpet shampoo residue problem.
We follow a very similar process as Buds but since we use the fiber rinse what we do is:
1. apply our shampoo mixture via a large bug sprayer or spray bottle directly to the carpet surface to pre spray the carpet.
2. work the mixture gently into the fibers and pay special attention to spots.
3. let sit to emulsify dirt
4. add rinse solution to the extractor and then extract the carpet removing the dirt and the shampoo.
TIP: this will also prevent your extractor jets, lines and inner pump components from gumming up if you only use your extractor on an occasional basis ( see buds comments regarding the shampoo that has had the carrier water evaporated from it). since you will avoid any shampoo residue as well in the machine.
My understanding of the science behind the fiber rinse product is as follows:
1. most carpet shampoos for the most part are an alkaline base, which promotes the cleaning process ( ph 8 to 10).
2. the fiber rinse is a slightly acidic product ( ph 1 to 6.
3. after the high PH Alkaline "shampoo or detergent" has emulsified the dirt and the extractor has removed it, the low ph acid product is then introduced and this "neutralizes" the residue shampoo leaving the carpets fiber properly rinsed. ( ph close as possible to 7)
4. the end result is a non coated carpet fibre that will feel soft and will not as Bud indicated above wick dirt back onto the carpet surface an in essence enhance resoiling of the carpet.
Simply put proper rinsing of the detergent is essential. As Bud A states above if left on the carpets surface it will do just as good a job of wiping it off of your feet and putting it back onto the carpet as it did to remove it from your carpet when you shampooed it.
The use of fiber rinses works so well that it is a standard procedure used by almost all quality professional commercial carpet cleaners. If it works that world it will most definitely work in the world of car care
On another topic I have found that the world of carpet care products is as equally diverse as that of general car care products. As a result I have found that carpet care products offered by a quality commercial janitorial supply house are the most cost effective and concentrated and work just great. I purchase the chemicals by the gallon and dilution ratios vary from approximately 1 to 3 oz per gallon of water to obtain proper shampoo and rinses.
Bud is right on regarding his concern regarding shampoo residue in carpets.
I have found that to counteract the shampoo residue problem I use a commercially produced " FIBRE RINSE ". This product is mixed with water and then sprayed on to the carpet fiber after cleaning and is then also extracted out. It works well and does a great job of removing the shampoo from the fibers to prevent the telltale " crunchy feel" that often accompanies the dreaded carpet shampoo residue problem.
We follow a very similar process as Buds but since we use the fiber rinse what we do is:
1. apply our shampoo mixture via a large bug sprayer or spray bottle directly to the carpet surface to pre spray the carpet.
2. work the mixture gently into the fibers and pay special attention to spots.
3. let sit to emulsify dirt
4. add rinse solution to the extractor and then extract the carpet removing the dirt and the shampoo.
TIP: this will also prevent your extractor jets, lines and inner pump components from gumming up if you only use your extractor on an occasional basis ( see buds comments regarding the shampoo that has had the carrier water evaporated from it). since you will avoid any shampoo residue as well in the machine.
My understanding of the science behind the fiber rinse product is as follows:
1. most carpet shampoos for the most part are an alkaline base, which promotes the cleaning process ( ph 8 to 10).
2. the fiber rinse is a slightly acidic product ( ph 1 to 6.
3. after the high PH Alkaline "shampoo or detergent" has emulsified the dirt and the extractor has removed it, the low ph acid product is then introduced and this "neutralizes" the residue shampoo leaving the carpets fiber properly rinsed. ( ph close as possible to 7)
4. the end result is a non coated carpet fibre that will feel soft and will not as Bud indicated above wick dirt back onto the carpet surface an in essence enhance resoiling of the carpet.
Simply put proper rinsing of the detergent is essential. As Bud A states above if left on the carpets surface it will do just as good a job of wiping it off of your feet and putting it back onto the carpet as it did to remove it from your carpet when you shampooed it.
The use of fiber rinses works so well that it is a standard procedure used by almost all quality professional commercial carpet cleaners. If it works that world it will most definitely work in the world of car care
On another topic I have found that the world of carpet care products is as equally diverse as that of general car care products. As a result I have found that carpet care products offered by a quality commercial janitorial supply house are the most cost effective and concentrated and work just great. I purchase the chemicals by the gallon and dilution ratios vary from approximately 1 to 3 oz per gallon of water to obtain proper shampoo and rinses.
Bud is right on regarding his concern regarding shampoo residue in carpets.
I have found that to counteract the shampoo residue problem I use a commercially produced " FIBRE RINSE ". This product is mixed with water and then sprayed on to the carpet fiber after cleaning and is then also extracted out. It works well and does a great job of removing the shampoo from the fibers to prevent the telltale " crunchy feel" that often accompanies the dreaded carpet shampoo residue problem.
We follow a very similar process as Buds but since we use the fiber rinse what we do is:
1. apply our shampoo mixture via a large bug sprayer or spray bottle directly to the carpet surface to pre spray the carpet.
2. work the mixture gently into the fibers and pay special attention to spots.
3. let sit to emulsify dirt
4. add rinse solution to the extractor and then extract the carpet removing the dirt and the shampoo.
TIP: this will also prevent your extractor jets, lines and inner pump components from gumming up if you only use your extractor on an occasional basis ( see buds comments regarding the shampoo that has had the carrier water evaporated from it). since you will avoid any shampoo residue as well in the machine.
My understanding of the science behind the fiber rinse product is as follows:
1. most carpet shampoos for the most part are an alkaline base, which promotes the cleaning process ( ph 8 to 10).
2. the fiber rinse is a slightly acidic product ( ph 1 to 6.
3. after the high PH Alkaline "shampoo or detergent" has emulsified the dirt and the extractor has removed it, the low ph acid product is then introduced and this "neutralizes" the residue shampoo leaving the carpets fiber properly rinsed. ( ph close as possible to 7)
4. the end result is a non coated carpet fibre that will feel soft and will not as Bud indicated above wick dirt back onto the carpet surface an in essence enhance resoiling of the carpet.
Simply put proper rinsing of the detergent is essential. As Bud A states above if left on the carpets surface it will do just as good a job of wiping it off of your feet and putting it back onto the carpet as it did to remove it from your carpet when you shampooed it.
The use of fiber rinses works so well that it is a standard procedure used by almost all quality professional commercial carpet cleaners. If it works that world it will most definitely work in the world of car care
On another topic I have found that the world of carpet care products is as equally diverse as that of general car care products. As a result I have found that carpet care products offered by a quality commercial janitorial supply house are the most cost effective and concentrated and work just great. I purchase the chemicals by the gallon and dilution ratios vary from approximately 1 to 3 oz per gallon of water to obtain proper shampoo and rinses.
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 09, 2003 03:21PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 894 |
Ive tried almost all of the best carpet cleaners at my pro carpet cleaning supplier and lately, Ive been using Natures Orange from Home Depot. I use it 10-1 and the results on leather, vinyl, and carpet are the best Ive seen so far. My favorite thing is that it doesnt foam and it works fast without having Butyl, its made from deliminate(a citrus solvent). Ive ben using it for 6 months with no bad effects. It even works on carpet for light soil, if you just spray it on, agitate, then wipe off with a towel, sounds like it will resoil, but it doesnt!
I swear by this stuff, 95% of the time, but when carpet is really dirty, I usually up the concentration of natures orange, or use a gnarly carpet cleaning product that you have to neuatralize, but this doesnt happen too often. Im addicted to this stuff, becuase it doesnt foam up at all in my extractor, and foam is a pain in the ass big time.
I swear by this stuff, 95% of the time, but when carpet is really dirty, I usually up the concentration of natures orange, or use a gnarly carpet cleaning product that you have to neuatralize, but this doesnt happen too often. Im addicted to this stuff, becuase it doesnt foam up at all in my extractor, and foam is a pain in the ass big time.
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 09, 2003 05:29PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
SINCE NO ONE HAS ACTUALLY REPORTED ON THE RESULTS OF THE TEST I ASKED THEM TO MAKE WITH THEIR CARPEPT SHAMPOO I WILL TELL YOU WHAT SHOULD HAVE HAPPENED:
"If you followed the instructions and let the shampoo evaporate there would have been a residual in the container.
If the residual was dry and flakey, you have a GOOD shampoo.
If the residual was thick and oily you have a BAD shampoo. The oily substance will bond to the carpet fibers, causing resoiling to occur very quickly.
So, if you have not done this test I would do it to see if your shampoo is leaving a oily, thick substance or not.
Be sure to dilute according to the manufacturer's instructions and be sure to use a CARPET SHAMPOO, not an Extractor Shampoo.
An extractor shampoo will have dilution rates of 40 to 1 or 64 to 1. This is not the type of shampoo to use for FRICTION SHAMPOOING.
This test is for Friction, foaming carpet shampoos, NOT EXTRACTOR SHAMPOOS.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
"If you followed the instructions and let the shampoo evaporate there would have been a residual in the container.
If the residual was dry and flakey, you have a GOOD shampoo.
If the residual was thick and oily you have a BAD shampoo. The oily substance will bond to the carpet fibers, causing resoiling to occur very quickly.
So, if you have not done this test I would do it to see if your shampoo is leaving a oily, thick substance or not.
Be sure to dilute according to the manufacturer's instructions and be sure to use a CARPET SHAMPOO, not an Extractor Shampoo.
An extractor shampoo will have dilution rates of 40 to 1 or 64 to 1. This is not the type of shampoo to use for FRICTION SHAMPOOING.
This test is for Friction, foaming carpet shampoos, NOT EXTRACTOR SHAMPOOS.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 10, 2003 04:09AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 61 |
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 10, 2003 05:08AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 11 |
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 10, 2003 06:28AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
yes there is a huge difference between a commercial grade extractor and those you might purchase at Sears. It has to do with the size of the vacuum motor which will affect lift; the heater, if it has one. So many things, bottomline, if you are doing professional detailing work you need to have a professional extraction machine in the long run.
Anti-stain chemicals are very good, 3M pioneered the product and has carried their generic name for years, "Scotchguarding" carpets and upholstery.
Yes, they work if applied correctly. They must be applied to dry carpets or upholstery and if done correctly will put a barrier on the fibers to prevent them from absorbing moisture which will cause stains. It will not prevent the fibers from getting dirty, but just from getting stained.
Yes, you spray a couple of coats on the carpet or fabric upholstery.
Any brand is good, but of course, ours is the best. Only joking, all are about the same.
Regards
Bud A
buda
Anti-stain chemicals are very good, 3M pioneered the product and has carried their generic name for years, "Scotchguarding" carpets and upholstery.
Yes, they work if applied correctly. They must be applied to dry carpets or upholstery and if done correctly will put a barrier on the fibers to prevent them from absorbing moisture which will cause stains. It will not prevent the fibers from getting dirty, but just from getting stained.
Yes, you spray a couple of coats on the carpet or fabric upholstery.
Any brand is good, but of course, ours is the best. Only joking, all are about the same.
Regards
Bud A
buda
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 10, 2003 06:38AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Dan:
Nature's Orange sounds like an All Purpose Cleaner, which in itself is a misnomer. From a chemical point of reference no one chemical can do all things well.
Yes, an all purpose cleaner will probably clean carpets just in the same way that Joy would clean your hair or be an effective shower gel to use. However, you would not do either, I hope. Why? Because as harmless as Joy might appear to be, it is a DEGREASER and used on your hair would take the oils out of your scalp and harm your hair. As a shower gel it would also remove natural body oils.
Same with using cleaning products that are not designed for the materials you are using them on. I do not care what the label says, we all know that chemical companies say a lot of things.
Carpet shampoos are formulated with different surfactants than all purpose cleaners, more gentle surfactants. They contain brighteners and softeners, obviously to leave the carpet/upholstery soft and brightened. They are also low pH to not harm the dyes in the fibers nor the backing.
I would be very surprised if this product did not contain some butyl. Yes, it also contains some diLimonine, but few products on the market use diLimonine exclusively because it is so costly.
diLimonine is a natural solvent that is obtained from the peels of citrus fruits like oranges and lemons. It is a good solvent, because it is a natural solvent and does not harm the environment. However, butyl is the most common solvent used in all cleaning chemicals and is not a bad solvent, it is just not a natural solvent.
As for what you do, that is your choice. I simply want to encourage detailers that they should make life easy and use chemicals for what they were formulated for.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
Nature's Orange sounds like an All Purpose Cleaner, which in itself is a misnomer. From a chemical point of reference no one chemical can do all things well.
Yes, an all purpose cleaner will probably clean carpets just in the same way that Joy would clean your hair or be an effective shower gel to use. However, you would not do either, I hope. Why? Because as harmless as Joy might appear to be, it is a DEGREASER and used on your hair would take the oils out of your scalp and harm your hair. As a shower gel it would also remove natural body oils.
Same with using cleaning products that are not designed for the materials you are using them on. I do not care what the label says, we all know that chemical companies say a lot of things.
Carpet shampoos are formulated with different surfactants than all purpose cleaners, more gentle surfactants. They contain brighteners and softeners, obviously to leave the carpet/upholstery soft and brightened. They are also low pH to not harm the dyes in the fibers nor the backing.
I would be very surprised if this product did not contain some butyl. Yes, it also contains some diLimonine, but few products on the market use diLimonine exclusively because it is so costly.
diLimonine is a natural solvent that is obtained from the peels of citrus fruits like oranges and lemons. It is a good solvent, because it is a natural solvent and does not harm the environment. However, butyl is the most common solvent used in all cleaning chemicals and is not a bad solvent, it is just not a natural solvent.
As for what you do, that is your choice. I simply want to encourage detailers that they should make life easy and use chemicals for what they were formulated for.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 10, 2003 06:46AM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 3,550 |
Commenting on your suggestion to use a rinse after using an alkaline carpet shampoo:
YOu are correct that either foaming shampoos for friction shampooing or non-foaming extractor shampoos used exclusively in extractors are an alkaline of about 8 to 10 pH.
However, the reason that professional carpet and upholstery cleaners use an "acid" rinse often called "Brown Away" Brown Out" No Brown" is not to do any rinsing of the fibers but to neutralize the alkalinity of the shampoo. If they do not do this and the carpet is white it will brown.
Have you ever noticed that your white dress shirts; tee-shirts or briefs have turned an ugly yellow color? This is because your mother/wife/girl friend has not used an acid rinse to neutralize the alkalinity of the detergent.
This type of rinse, as I understand it, is not to provide any cleaning of the fibers, but simply to neutralize the shampoo to keep it from browning/yellowing the carpet/upholstery. But then how many white carpets are their in cars today?
You still must use an extractor with an extractor shampoo to provide the clean rinsing of the carpet/upholstery fibers. You can acid rinse if you wish, but you MUST RINSE OUT THE FRICTION SHAMPOO.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
YOu are correct that either foaming shampoos for friction shampooing or non-foaming extractor shampoos used exclusively in extractors are an alkaline of about 8 to 10 pH.
However, the reason that professional carpet and upholstery cleaners use an "acid" rinse often called "Brown Away" Brown Out" No Brown" is not to do any rinsing of the fibers but to neutralize the alkalinity of the shampoo. If they do not do this and the carpet is white it will brown.
Have you ever noticed that your white dress shirts; tee-shirts or briefs have turned an ugly yellow color? This is because your mother/wife/girl friend has not used an acid rinse to neutralize the alkalinity of the detergent.
This type of rinse, as I understand it, is not to provide any cleaning of the fibers, but simply to neutralize the shampoo to keep it from browning/yellowing the carpet/upholstery. But then how many white carpets are their in cars today?
You still must use an extractor with an extractor shampoo to provide the clean rinsing of the carpet/upholstery fibers. You can acid rinse if you wish, but you MUST RINSE OUT THE FRICTION SHAMPOO.
Regards
Bud Abraham
buda
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Re: How Good is Your Carpet Shampoo? March 12, 2003 04:34PM |
Registered: 17 years ago Posts: 894 |
Bud, you make some good points, that I was trying to express in my post about natures orange. I ONLY use it for light, light, light dirt on carpet, but I do use it on all leather and vinyl. It is stricly my interior cleaner/light carpet cleaner.
I agree with you about using products for what they are designed for, thats why on tires, wheels, engines, and dirty carpet, we use completely different products, we cant afford the time it takes to make an all purpose cleaner work on an engine or tires for less than the best results, you know what I mean.
Also, I doubt natures orange has butly in it, I dont get that burn in my nose when its vapor accidentally gets in my face like with Simple Green and other cleaners.
A lot of detailers use an acid fibre rinse to make the carpet very soft, but your suggestion of keeping brown off of white carpet does make sense.
Anyway, just clarifiying that we only use products for what they are meant for. Take care
I agree with you about using products for what they are designed for, thats why on tires, wheels, engines, and dirty carpet, we use completely different products, we cant afford the time it takes to make an all purpose cleaner work on an engine or tires for less than the best results, you know what I mean.
Also, I doubt natures orange has butly in it, I dont get that burn in my nose when its vapor accidentally gets in my face like with Simple Green and other cleaners.
A lot of detailers use an acid fibre rinse to make the carpet very soft, but your suggestion of keeping brown off of white carpet does make sense.
Anyway, just clarifiying that we only use products for what they are meant for. Take care
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