MOTOR HELP 66 GTO

HI. just bought a 66 gto. car has been sitting in storage for 8-10 years. car was running strong before getting mothballed. since motor was running well before storage can I get away with oil change and complete tune up before firing? I know for a fact engine has gone thru some major mods and was running high compression and needed high octane fuel. since the previous owner spent good money on the mods I would hate to trash the motor by being careless. BIG THANKS in advance !!!

CONGRATULATIONS.
AFTER MY 56' CHEVY SAT FOR SEVERAL YEARS, I PULLED THE TOP OF THE DISTRIBUTOR AND USED A DRILL TO PUMP OIL THROUGH THE MOTOR. ( I BROKE THE HANDLE OFF AN OLD SCREW DRIVER AS A BIT). NEW POINTS AND PLUGS AND IT FIRED UP WITH A LITTLE TAPPING FROM THE LIFTERS, BUT THEY SMOOTHED OUT RIGHT AWAY.
I DID, HOWEVER, HAVE TO REPLACE ALL THE WHEEL AND AXLE BEARINGS, TIE ROD ENDS AND BALL JOINTS. THE RUBBER SEALS HAD DRIED AND CRACKED. THE GREASE ON THE WHEEL BEARINGS HAD SETTLED AND MY BALLS RUSTED. WHAT?
NONE OF IT WAS ANYTHING MAJOR, JUST LITTLE STUFF I HADN'T THOUGHT ABOUT BEFORE HAND.
GOOD LUCK,
MARK
'72 LEMANS-GTO 400/400
'56 CHEVY

MARK, YOU ARE ABSOLUTLY CORRECT ABOUT THE IMPORTANCE OF PRELUBING THE ENGINE. I HAVE USED THIS WAY IN THE PAST BUT FOUND THAT OIL ONLY GOES TO ONE LIFTER GALLEY. I WAS ABLE TO REMIDY THIS BY USING AN OLD DISTRIBUTOR WITH THE DRIVE GEAR REMOVED. I ALSO HAD TO CUT THE FLY WEIGHT END OFF OF THE SHAFT. BY SIMPLY ATTACHING A PEICE OF AIR LINE HOSE TO THE SHAFT AND THE OTHER END TO A PEICE OF COLD ROLLED STEEL IN A DRILL I WAS ABLE TO PRELUBE BOTH OIL GALLEY'S. ALSO BY USING THE HOSE I WAS ABLE TO CLEAR ANY INTERFERENCE WITH THE FIREWALL

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR FIND. FRANK

IF YOU HAVE GAS IN THE TANK FOR THE LAST 8 TO YEARS THEN YOU NEED TO DROP THE TANK EMPTY ANY GAS AND HAVE IT CLEANED. MOST OFTEN THERE WILL BE A SLUDGE BUILT UP. YOU DIFFECTLY WANT TO CHANGE OIL AND PRELUBE BEFORE STARTING, I'D ALSO SHOOT SOME WD-40 IN EACH CYLINDER JUST IN CASE YOU HAVE SOME RUST ON THE CYLINDER WALLS, THIS WILL HELP PREVENT RING DAMAGE. YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK ALL YOUR RUBBER FULL LINES THEY MAY BE ROTTEN.

I will like to thank Mark, Frank and Timmy for their insight and apologize for the belated thanks. I prelubed and inspected as suggested, turned the key and ..nothing!! well.. actually something happened, the battery kept getting hotter (unplugged it, but battery died and had to be replaced) . It seems the wires feeding the starter solenoid run really close to the exhaust header, the wires had some moinor slack and were actually touching the header, wires melted and created a a nasty short leading all the way to the key switch. this was preexisting and predate to a full service that was done to the car that included shimming the starter to proper clearances. Needless to say I removed the engine wire harness and repaired it. Working on the cabin wire harness now ps. I did start the engine for about 3 minutes.. sounds good but getting some gas leakage from the carburator floater bowls.....I am not complaining, all this work will make it so much sweeter when I get it rolling
thanks!!!!!