<HTML>Bud, thanks for keeping us on track. I think you a right about detailers needing to focus more attention on running a business. The technical side of detaling is important, but the way we run our business can make or break us just as much as the quality of our services. I think that is why many detailers remain self-employed detail technicians rather than becoming owners and managersby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>XP Polish is a great product. It's more of a light to medium compound than a polish. I use it with a wool/poly blended pad for medium duty cutting or a foam cutting pad for light duty cutting. I follow it up with New Car Glaze and a polishing pad to remove any swirls and polish the surface. XP Compound can be used on clearcoat paint if heavy cutting is needed, but it's so meby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>#00 Steel wool will take spots off the glass if they are relatively fresh, but the safest method to remove the stubborn spots from both the glass and paint is to use a rotary buffer and a wool/poly blended pad and a medium or heavy duty compound and buff the glass and paint until the water spots are removed, then polish with a swirl remover/polish and a foam polishing pad. This is aby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>Zaino Brothers is a paint sealant that is marketed to the anal enthusiast types that want more than a shiney car... they want to feel like they are using something better than the norm. The more they pay for the product, the better they feel about using it. It's a win-win situation for the consumer and the manufacturer. I agree that professional results can be achieved with anyby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>I'm not in Jersey... I'm in Mandeville, Louisiana just north of New Orleans.</HTML>by Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>The shape of the edge determines how well you can squeeze the buffer into tight spots like behind mirrors, into the chines of a boat, ridges on a motor home or travel trailer, etc. Beveled edges work best for that, flat edges work ok, but rounded edges are no good.</HTML>by Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>That's a question best left for the people who designed them, but which one you use is mostly a matter of personal preference. Almost any pad will get the job done, but how the pad performs on flat surfaces, edges, curves, and tight spots is what makes certain designs favorable or unfavorable to the operator.</HTML>by Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>Not all pads are the same, Bud. There are the flat pads, the concaved ones, the ones with curved edges, the onles with flat edges, the ones with beveled edges, the "waffle" types, etc. It's a matter of personal preference which ones you use, but I recommend sticking to one supplier for all your pads. This avoids the confusion. The brand I use I selected because I like tby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>Bud- I agree that for professional application, a rotary buffer is the only practical tool of choice for removing swirls. Not only is it the only practical choice, it is, in my opinion the best choice and the obvious choice. For professionals, that is. The consumer market is a whole other ballgame. It's not practical for consumers to be wielding rotary buffers, that's whyby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>I find that XP Compound is way to agressive for clearcoats. It has a very fast, aggressive initial cut, but it does break down into a polish as you work. However, you must buff long enough for it to do that. Sometimes you have to spray with some Quick Detailer (i.e. Body Shine #49) to prolong the buffing time. Anyway, the whole process is messy and I don't recommend it. Try theby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>I use flat foam pads ("The Edge" brand) for light cutting and polishing. There are three grades of foam that I use for different tasks. I like the shape and they hold up great. I use a poly/wool blended pad for medium to heavy cutting on clearcoat paints. I use a white wool pad for heavy cutting of gelcoats and single stage paints or buffing after wet sanding. I don't fby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>Bud- Just wondering if you think a little bit of caustic degreaser would harm the fibers on a floor mat if used to break up grease spots prior to rinsing the mats with a hose or pressure washer? Obviously the degreaser would only be on the mat for a few seconds, and a thorough hose rinse would leave no trace left behind. This might be a more cost effective solution for grease spots oby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>Jerry- That price range was just an example. My prices for a full detail start at $150 are based on the size and condition of the vehicle. I price each job by estimating the time required for the job and multiplying by an unpublished hourly "shop" rate of $35 per hour, which is what I must make to meet all my expenses, desired salary, and profit. Those hourly figures are baby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>Bud: You are absolutely right about the perceived of value of a mobile detailing operation. Businessmen tell me all the time that "It must be nice having a business with no overhead". However, I think there are things mobile detailers can do to improve the perceived value of their services. For starters, it helps to have a professional rig with all the proper equipment: prby Gary Giffin - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts