<HTML>I used my orbital to remove dog odor. I used it with some auto magic stoner. The noise and agitaion was enough to make the dog run away. Is that eliminating the source?</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>john Im no paint expert but this is what i know.. Most painters say not to use any kind of protection for 3 to 6 months. Some say just till the new paint doesnt bead water. I belive they recomend this so the paint can cure properly. You should be fine without waxing or sealants for 3 months. Just dont hit anything else. hehehe</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>ljenos I have been kind of watching your post to see what sugestions may come. I havent really had to deal with them in a couple years, so heres what I remember. Acids and alkalides (agressive products used to clean wheels) can "burn" them. Not good. The irregualar surface is difficult to deal with for any kind of polish or wax type product. Deffiantely no buffer. I just wby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>mark Im going to guess your garage isnt finised out...No wall board of any kind... 7 floresent tubes sounds like a lot of light. Im not a big fan of "task lights". they are usually yellow and to bright and getting them in the right spot without a shadow is nearly impossible. (Im sure others will disagree, and I have a shop light myself). But I would sugest making the best uby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>just to throw in my 2 cents worth....for what its worth....(about 2 cents) hehehe.... Im not one to dress exterior trim. I have found it to be a temporary fix, that usually looks worse after a day or 2... Im not sure about the product your talking about. If the trim is bad enough to dress I would rather just up-sell a dye. they work great and last 100 times longer than any dressing.by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>solo con clay bars are not all the same. The brand I use comes in 3 levels...fine, medium and course. I rarely use anything more agressive than fine. I remove fall out, overspray, welding slag, and such with fine. There is also a pad available you can use on your DA/Orbital buffer that will hold a clay bar and make quick work of a normal car. The good thing about the pad is it holdsby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>You should have enough paint to deal with the problems. The only thing to consider with re-painting is weather you can live with the 10% that can't be corrected by a detailer. Problem is, finding a detailer that can do paint corrections. I hate to ask where your located but if your close by, I would be more than happy to help you out. Im in VA. phil</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>its hard to give you a definate answer without taking a good look at it. From what you described it could be 1 or 2 things. (assuming the problem is only on the plastic parts) 1. Wax or sealant in the moldings. (plastic parts) I use a non-silicone rubber dressing with brush to remove this. 2. The moldings have been burned with a buffer and has wax or sealant.by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>I have been using an extractor for about the past 8 or 9 years. When extractors first came available to me and probably most other detailers in my area, it was recommended to use a product "shampoo" in the extractor. The thought was that there was no need to pre-treat the carpet since it was in the extractor. This didn't work very well, especially on heavily soiled carpby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>this is an interesting subject. I figure the first I heard of the issues of using silicone based products on engines was about 5 years ago. I still continued to do it for a few years because it was the standard in the shop i worked at. I have tried various silicone free dressings but havent found one that worked as well. So I havent dressed an engine in about 2 years. Most of my custby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>mark about the only thing I have ever used an extractor for (other than carpets and cloth seats) is to clean nasty spills that get in the seams of leather seats when I cant get them out any other way. A steam cleaner would be a better option for the other things. It would be a better option for cleaning the seams in the seat. hehehe..</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>solo con decals aren't to bad to remove. (ususally) A heat gun can come in handy on occasions. You just need to figure out how much heat to apply to do the job the easiest. I will usually lift a corner with a razor if i cant do it with a fingernail. This requires a degree of care, and you can cut the paint with the greatest care. I would advise going over the methods that willby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>power washing....I would say be careful...Some engines dont take to water well..usually you find out the hard way...Vettes, landrovers, and some mercedies, and any engine that has the plugs mounted on the top..usually on in-line 6s..I belive saturn has this style engine as well..usually the plugs will be in a "well" with sometimes a so called water tight seal some have no pby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>One thing to be careful of when using bleach or bleach contianing product on a convertible is the threads...bleach can weaken the threads...You may have to resort to that but be careful if you do this often. what kind of convertible top is it...cloth or vinal? although you probably already did the car...lol...please post the results...</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>thanks SAB...dont you just love cutting jute....have you found a tool that cuts that easily....I have been using razor blades and it eates them up. pmack</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>heres a question...did you know there is a special pad to be used on a DA/orbital. it holds the clay bar and keeps you from rubbing the car by hand. It may save enough time to be worth your while...</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>clay bars will break down with soap. the stronger the soap the faster the break down. Then you have clay bar residue all over the car to deal with..I use a finish spray designed for use with a clay bar. It stays wet longer and provides the lubrisity needeed for the job..it also does a pretty good job with bugs..In short there is a product out there designed for the job...ask your suppby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>jim is that a detailer on the hood? lol...I dont think i will take it to that extreme..dipping may work for a cat or dog ....but a car???? pmack</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>bud interesting post....very interesting....I hope everybody read it. pmack</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>I agree with brian. some things are better left alone...I would price out a new one and see if you can even get one before i even touched it. especially if it looks fragile. You may find one without the logos a little easier. You could get one of those to put in place for apearance and store the origianl till you can find a better replacement or less aressive way to clean it...It mayby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>scott Im sure everyone on this site has been burnt like that. The dealer has no respect for a detailer because they see no value. The sale doesnt stop when the freebie is done. Watch that car. It will usually sell within days. They may think YOUR the sucker and laugh like hell. If you see the car gone inquire about it. He may stand there thinking your the sucker and laugh at you on thby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>you guys dont forget anything.....lol..... it depends on if you want to look at it short term or long term..... does your chemical supplier provide free samples? does your supplier provide you with demo equipment? does your supplier provide equipment when yours is being repaired? does your supplier provide free training? (even fly you to their facility) how would that make you feel? wby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>it is very hard to just walk into a dealer and get the deal...You have to know what your selling...Its only natural that a detailer would sell a detail... they are already buying a detail...your selling something they already have... you need to learn to sell without selling... car salesmen call it rope a dope...(bob and weave)...you will find that a salesman will be the first to fallby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>pretty basic tools. A socket set....metric and standard.....a set of torx drivers that fit on your ratchet...a cordless screwdriver to speed things up, and good old fashion screwdrivers....long handle and short. thats about all you really need....but you can never have to many tools..</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>sab what are the occasions you pull carpets</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>wow so much to say..........is this going to be your main source of income.. or a little side money...you can start with little or you can start with lots...hard to say without knowing more....A question like that can open you up to being sold everything under the sun. There are many levels in detailing...it takes time to build a strong customer base...I wish i could just hand you somby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>I wuoldnt get involved with anything related to warrenty work...If you decide to look into it....there are warrenties backed by the manufacture of the sealant...there are usually stipulations for what will keep the warrenty in force..usually repeat applications every 6 months...read all the fine print if you pursue any 5 year guarentee...or have one heck of an insurance policy.... jusby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>philG I hope i didnt sound like I was beating you up about the free part...I know there are other ears listening....hehehehe.....and i got a little beat up about doing something for free....lol.....let me know if you want to learn how to spend between 20 to 30 dollars and dig through a dumpster and come out smelling like a rose....you sound like a go getter....</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>philG heres where you can get some practice....Try pulling your own carpet....You probably have a junk yard near by...if you dont mind doing something for free.. go there and ask to disasemble an interior or 2....they may love the idea of having parts pulled for free....if you dont mind doing something for free....consider the benifits....you gain experience and confidence...it is aby pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts
<HTML>I will probably go with MF when my chamois wears out...I cant stand the drag of a new chamois.</HTML>by pmack - Auto Detailing: Secrets of the Experts